Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

[rspst14]

Hey guys, how difficult and expensive is it to repair something like this:

The guitar can still be strung up with no problem, it's just cracked, not broken. I'm asking because I believe that guitar is a '68 Les Paul, Gibson's serial numbers aren't of much help, so I'm still in the process of trying to confirm it's age. But otherwise, it's in good condition, and I have a chance to get it at a very good price. I'm just wondering if a good luthier can fix that crack without too much difficulty. Thanks.

Ryan

 

[Fresh_Start]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Hey Ryan -

Is that a crack that only goes part way thru, or was the headstock snapped off and glued back on already? (might make a difference in diagnosis ).

Chip

 

[rspst14]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

I don't know, I'm trying to figure that out. It's one of those situations where a lady was cleaning out an attic and found it. She knows nothing about guitars. I did ask if it was a finish problem, or an actual crack in the wood, and she seems to think it's an actual crack. Like I said, it can be strung up with no problem, so I'm really not sure.

Ryan

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

I´d have to see the whole crack / break to say anything definite.

But a good luthier can (99% chance) fix it no sweat

 

[scooter]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

From your pic it looks like the crack is above the nut so the fingerboard should not need to be removed. I helped someone fix a similar problem a while back. We basically just broke the headstock off carefully as to make it as clean as possible. Glued and clamped back together and it was good as new. The guitar that we did this for had a more sevre crack. It was basically all the way through so breaking it off was pretty easy.

 

[SheDoesntDoIt4Me]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Many les pauls have been fixed like that, id buy it if the price was right....so cmon...break it to us...how much?

 

[rspst14]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

I'm still trying to determine what year it is. I thought it was a '68 at first, but the volute rules that out. Most likely it's a '74 or '75. What's weird is that it has certain traits of a post-1972 LP, but also a few that indicate it could be a '68. But I'm told the volute completely rules out any chance of it being a '68.

Ryan

 

[beandip]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

if you wanna do it yourself, epoxy is all I'm saying (dont listen to me, I'm hurting and tired.)

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

if you wanna do it yourself, epoxy is all I'm saying (dont listen to me, I'm hurting and tired.)

Unfortunately, I have to agree with the part in parentheses. Epoxy doesn´t penetrate into wood fibers very well, making it a somewhat questionable choice for most headstock breaks (although there ARE situations where it´s even best). Wood Glue or somethimes slow curing-superclue are generally the best choices in my experience

 

[rspst14]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Thanks guys...here are some pics.

I started asking some questions over on the Les Paul forum...big mistake. Some of those people take their guitars way too seriously. One guy accused me of "playing games" because I mistakenly called the finish gold instead of natural. Another accused me of being an Indonesian guy looking to fraudulently pass off a 70's LP as a '68. :wrf:

The seller told me the serial # is 5108XX. Here's the problem...that indicates a '65 or '68 model, but Gibson also randomized serial numbers in the mid 70's, so it could also be a '74 or '75. Gibson didn't make any LP's in '65, so that leaves three possible years. I'm pretty sure the volute was introduced after '68, but it should theoretically have the "Made in USA" stamp on the back of the headstock, and it doesn't. One guy mentioned that it might have been refinished, which may explain the lack of a stamp.

I'm trying to get more information from the seller, but it's a lady who knows nothing about guitars. The guitar apparently belonged to her late husband. All she could tell me was that he bought it used a long time ago, and that the crack appears to be stable. I just thought I would pick it up if I could get it at a decent price. Even if it turns out to be a 70's model, I might take a chance on it if the price is right.

Does anyone know how to interpret CTS pot codes? Right now, I think that may be the only way to determine the year. Thanks for the help.

Ryan

 

[Curly]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Ryan,
here's a quick link to pot dating

 

[Norman_T]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Ryan,

Have you bought it as yet - looks as though its going to be a killer guitar if the price is right - and I think its a '74!!

Norman

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Pot and Speaker Codes:

1st 3 digits: Manufacturer

106 = Allen Bradley Corp.
134 = CentraLab
137 = CTS
140 = Clarostat
220 = Jensen (Speakers)
304 = Stackpole
328 = Utah/Oxford (Speakers)
381 = Bourns Networks
465 = Oxford (Speakers)

In a 6-digit code, the fourth digit corresponds to the last digit of the year of manufacture. In a 7 digit code, the 4th and 5th digits are the year. The last 2 digits are the week, so if the code ends in something higher than 52 the pot is not original /not of US-Origin.

BTW: the 7 digit code was introduced in ´61 (for pots, most speakers still use the 6 digit to this day), so you can be fairly sure that the pots have 7 digit codes

Note: Sometimes there is a space or hyphen after the first 3 digits, sometimes not.

And Finally, Remember that dating a pot has 2 drawbacks:

1. If it´s not original the info isn´t worth anything
2. It is NOT a guage of how old the instrument is, but merely an "absolute maximum" for how old it could possibly be. Actually quite obvious, considering that regardless of situation the pot had to be completed and mounted before the instrument was serialized. For example if one of the pots had a code (the "newest" one) of late 68, say 52nd week, then you can be near 100% sure it´s a ´70s axe. Why? Because pot codes are generally a minimum of 2 weeks before instrument completion, and often lay around in bins for a while before they get used. I´ve seen 70´s pots on brand spanking new guitars. The actual date will still have to be taken from the instrument´s specs

As far as the serial number goes you seem to be on the right track, btw. My guess would be a ´74-´75.

BTW, If for some reason you decide to pass, or decide after a while that she´s just not you, you know where I can be reached. I´m still looking for a ´70s LP Custom

 

[beandip]

Re: Question for Zerb or JohnJohn

Sorry about my earlier post, I was out of it. Dead tired, and I took a sucker punch to the ribs in a fight. Hot Stuff super glue is great for that kinda stuff. I would saturate the crack with some thin glue, and let it dry, then finish up right around the break edge with some thick gel. Clamp well, and it's all good.