Rebel 30: broken jack

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DanjaBellza

New member
I posted this on another forum, with no response as of yet.

The input jack on my rebel 30 broke off. More accurately the metal sleeve that guides the plug into the jack came out when the plastic threads inside broke.

I contacted egnater, and seeing as I purchased the amp second hand, it's not under warranty. And the 2 repair shops closest to me are both 6+ hours away in different directions.

I was hoping to find a new assembly that I could order, and avoid shipping the amp(leaving me ampless) and paying for labor for something I could knock out in an afternoon. Possibly even a metal assembly that would hold up to more use.

Does anyone know if/where I could order said parts?
 
Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

I would say try the Switchcraft website. Can't figure out how to post the link from Tapatalk ATM.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
 
Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

Kinda not the part I was askin' about... *grin*

You'll need to replace the inner jack - that's what we need to see to tell you what to order. The other possibility would be to ask Egnater if you can order the part from them.
 
Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

To determine the right part remotely, we'll need pictures from inside the amp, top and bottom of the PC board. From the outside, it looks like the same jack as on my Tweaker 15, but the same external bushing is used with several different bodies inside.

According to my Tweaker schematic, it uses a stereo switching jack. Stereo is not needed in this application, but the stereo version of the jacks has a lot more connections on it, so it gets more securely mounted to the PC board. This one is pretty close, but it has solder tabs instead of pins for PC mounting. http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nmj6hc-s-1-4-stereo-phone-jack-switched--090-976. Not sure if Egnater uses little round pins or the bigger flat tabs. A photo of the underside of the PC board will tell.

It might be more like this: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/1-4-in-stereo-nys215/

or like this: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/1-4-enclosed-nmj6hcd2/
 
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Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

Big companies like Egnater usually don't like dealing with customers over small parts. They refer all that stuff to their dealers. So call the closest dealer, most likely Guitar Center, and have the person who does their special orders get the jack from Egnater.

Yeah, it'll probably cost you the retail price of the jack, but at least it'll be the right one with pins that line up perfectly with their circuit board.
 
Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

Ok, here is the internal view. Once again via YouTube. I called the closer of the two repair shops, they said they will send me the Jack, if they have it, but yeah. Not sure if this is one for a tech or if I should do it solo mio... It might be a good excuse to acquire a new soldering station, with variable power...


https://youtu.be/sIQBMdBSlBQ
 
Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

It is a "stereo" Cliff Jack with PCB mounting lugs.
You need to pull the knobs and/or nuts from all other pots and switches, and then pull the board out of the chassis. Use as little heat as possible and work fast. You Do No want to lift any pads or traces on the other side of the PCB.
Pay attention to where the Molex Connectors go if you need to pull any of those to flip the board over.
best
 
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Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

zzmoore said:
It is a "stereo" Cliff Jack with PCB mounting lugs.
You need to pull the knobs and/or nuts from all other pots and switches, and then pull the board out of the chassis. Use as little heat as possible and work fast. You Do No want to lift any pads or traces on the other side of the PCB.
Pay attention to whee the Molex Connectors go if you need to pull any of those to flip the board over.
best
Click to expand...


Is this the same?
 
Re: Rebel 30: broken jack

That should work fine. I did not realize that RichS had already turned you onto the right part.
But yes, barring some real weird pins, any of those should work.
I do not have the schem like Rich does (no doubt he is correct).....but sometimes Bruce used a redundant ground when there was no actual need for the switching capability of the stereo jack. Just be careful is all I am saying. :)
Sometimes that Lead Free Solder can be a real ***** to remove. It is often easier to add some leaded solder to facilitate easier removal; whether using a desolder braid or a solder sucker.
Not trying to make a mountain out of this, you should be able to do it with no real problems, just take your time.
best
 
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