Routing a top for trem shenanigans

[JB_From_Hell]

I want to give the trem more freedom on my PRS CE24, so it can pull back further. Removing a very small amount of wood from the top, like my JP6, would allow this. Assuming I have a router, know how to use it, build a little jig, tape and prep the surface properly, etc... is there any reason I shouldn't do this? I've thought it through, and just want to make sure I'm not overlooking some silly thing.

The guitar has tons of nicks and dings, I've already stripped the poly and oil finished the neck, the original hard case, tuners, saddles, and pickups were long gone before I got it, so I'm not worried about affecting resale value.

 

[Chris Pile]

Is this a bolt on neck, or glued in neck?

 

[devastone]

The CE is a bolt on.

If you are good with a router, don't see why it wouldn't work, but you'll want to be careful with the finish, some of the luthiers on here may have advice on how to protect it. But, if you are thinking the tremol-no is the answer to all your problems and will allow you to do more with the trem, see my post there.

 

[JB_From_Hell]

The CE is a bolt on.

If you are good with a router, don't see why it wouldn't work, but you'll want to be careful with the finish, some of the luthiers on here may have advice on how to protect it. But, if you are thinking the tremol-no is the answer to all your problems and will allow you to do more with the trem, see my post there.

You’re correct, it’s a bolt on, and an older model (early 2000s), for full disclosure.

My plan before actually planning anything is to tape off the area I’m routing, score the edge, and remove the finish from what’s getting routed out. The top is solid black, so it’ll be easier to touch up the edges and the routed area.

This and the Tremol-no are addressing two different issues. I want the PRS to be able to do all the crazy whammy stuff the JP6 can do (routing), and I’d like to be able to play either of them in D or drop C tuning (Tremol-no).

 

[solspirit]

It's just the back edge you would be routing, correct?
Or is it front and back?

Either way it's no problem, make sure the guitar and router base are clean and you shouldn't need tape because if you set the router on the highest speed it should be at least 11 or 12,000 rpm so chipping would be almost nonexistent.

 

[JB_From_Hell]

It's just the back edge you would be routing, correct?
Or is it front and back?

Either way it's no problem, make sure the guitar and router base are clean and you shouldn't need tape because if you set the router on the highest speed it should be at least 11 or 12,000 rpm so chipping would be almost nonexistent.

Just the top around the back of the bridge.

 

[solspirit]

Just the top around the back of the bridge.

Should be no problem at all, don't overthink it, if you're really worried about the finish use butchers paper in between the back & side of where the router plate & guitar will come in contact. You can use any straight edge, I usually use a regular wooden yardstick and clamp it to the table securing both the 'jig' and guitar. I only do this because I have no proper jigs but it has never failed. You don't need a full size router either a cheap $39 Chinese trimmer will do the job.
.
. ... They're all made in China now anyway. Hahaha

 

[PFDarkside]

Do you have enough clearance in the trem cavity for the block to pull up?

 

[Chris Pile]

If you don't want to rout on the body, you can shim the neck a bit and raise the trem for more pull-back clearance. That way you could try it out before altering the body forever.

 

[JB_From_Hell]

Do you have enough clearance in the trem cavity for the block to pull up?

Yes. I’m only taking out a very little bit of wood. It almost has the range I want now, just needs a little more clearance.

 

[JB_From_Hell]

If you don't want to rout on the body, you can shim the neck a bit and raise the trem for more pull-back clearance. That way you could try it out before altering the body forever.

Hmm, might try that. I’ve had mixed luck with neck shims in the past, and still prefer to have full contact in the pocket.

If all goes well, the modification will be barely noticeable.

 

[hamerfan]

StewMac offers full area shims

 

[JB_From_Hell]

I really don’t want to change the neck angle or get the bridge oriented any differently. Love everything about the guitar as-is, minus the fractions of an ounce of wood that needs removed.

 

[solspirit]

Did you do it?

 

[JB_From_Hell]

Not yet. It’s been a hectic week.

 

[hamerfan]

There are many ways skin a cat, but the shims are the least intrusive and hassle free.