Samick Torino

Robbyk

New member
I have a Gregg Bennet Torino with the Duncan designed Pick ups. They appear to be low in volume compared to my other instruments. I am considering replacing them. I was wondering if any one had suggestions as to what ones would be good for this application. I play classic rock and blues through a Marshall stack. I own a Strat with pearly gates at the bridge and it sounds great.
 
Re: Samick Torino

I play Chicago blues & classic rock, and have several Epi SG's, so I can help. SG's don't have quite the low end & sustain of an LP, but you can still get a very heavy, powerful tone. PU's will probably sound different in a SG than your Strat. I like warm bridges & bright necks, so that I can use either PU for chords & solos, and it makes it easier to EQ my amp, so that both PU's sound good on the same setting. For our type of music, I find ceramic magnet PU's too bright & harsh, and terrible clean.

There are a few ways to go. Depends on the tone you're after, and if you want to push into distortion sooner. Look at the manufacturer's tone charts & get an idea of EQ.

Bridge:
Low Output - PAF's are the legendary SG sound, like Clapton in Cream. These are clear & articulate when clean, & great with overdrive. Ohms run from 8,000 to 8,500. For a brighter sound with a tight low end, there are good A5 magnet PU's like SD's '59 & Jazz, and DiMarzio's PAF, PAF Classic, Virtual PAF, & Air Classic. For a warmer A2 tone with more mids & a looser low end, SD's Pearly Gates, Seth, and A2P are very popular, along with Gibson's '57 Classics, Burstbucker, or 490T.

Medium Output - DiMarzio has focused on this range and has some nice options, like the Fred, Norton, & Air Norton, all with A5's.

High Output - SD's Custom 5 (A5) and Custon Custom (A2) are popular, as is Gibson's 498T (A5).

Neck:
Most neck HB's are 7,000 to 8,000 ohms, which preserves the treble, to prevent a dull, muddy sound. In a bright wood, or thin-bodied guitar, some players use a PAF bridge HB in the neck (in a fat LP, this often doesn't work). Whether you go low, medium, or high output on the bridge, to get a clear, usable bluesy neck sound, you don't want a hot neck PU.

Neck PU's are usually the matching pair to the low output bridge PU's listed above, like the '59, Jazz, PG, Seth, A2P, Air Classic, Virtual PAF, '57 Classic, Burstbucker, & 490R, and you can pair these in any combination.

You can also get the open single sound by using a SD Phat Cat or Gibson P-94. These work well as a pair, or with one of those in the neck, and a HB in the bridge. There is no reason not to mix magnets too, like a '59N paired with a PGB. Or a JazzN with a CC. Think of what you want for each PU position.

If the PU's you get aren't quite what you wanted, you can dial in their sound with replacement magnets & pots. For instance, I have a Gibson 498T in a SG, that I put in an A4 magnet and 250K pots (on the bridge, 500K's on the neck). Gives it a nice warm & powerful sound. I have a C5 with 250K's, and the stock A5 is fine. On both of these bridge PU's I shaved off some of the high, thin treble, and brought out the mids. If you get a neck PU with an A2 that is just a little too dark, an A3 or A4 magnet may make it perfect. Or you can warm an A5 bridge PU with an A4, A3, or A2. You have a lot of flexibility, so don't immediately give up on a PU and buy another one. The thing to avoid is the classic Gibson mistake of pairing a dark neck PU with a bright bridge (the infamous 490R/498T) and not being able to get an amp EQ that works for both. By the way, those are good PU's when paired with something else, or with a different magnet or two.

Many newbies rush out & get a JB, as its the most promoted hot bridge PU. For some players it works well, for others it has an "icepick" tone and sound like a "dentist's drill." Some guys tame them with 250K's or A2's. Very controversial PU with strong feelings in both the love and hate camps. There are many choices that have higher odds of succeeding for you.

No matter what PU recommendations you get on this forum, its for their guitar, their wood, their amp, and their playing style. Odds are it won't sound the same (and maybe not even close) thru your rig. It comes down to what is best for you, not them.
 
Re: Samick Torino

:notworthy Blueman, thanks for the detailed explanation (I know you've posted many such before, but this one was exceptional.) you clarified a couple of things for me. I've never done a mag swap before, but now, I think I'll try an A3 or A4 in my JB as a first step.
 
Re: Samick Torino

:noteworthy Blueman, thanks for the detailed explanation (I know you've posted many such before, but this one was exceptional.) you clarified a couple of things for me. I've never done a mag swap before, but now, I think I'll try an A3 or A4 in my JB as a first step.

There's lots of old threads on swapping magnets, and some online pictoral instruction too. It takes maybe 15 minutes, from loosening the strings, to re-tightening and tuning, & is nothing high tech. Practice on a old cheap Asian PU first if you want. A couple of tips: Loosen the 4 base plate screws about an 1/8"; if you take them out all the way, you're fumbling with the coils. I pull out the old magnet halfway, orient the new magnet, then pull out the old one and put the new in. If you put a piece of tape on the bottom of the base plate, and write the magnet type on it, you'll know what's in there without taking it apart again.

I recommend getting several kinds of magnets & having them on hand for new guitars, old guitars, and new PU's. You're always ready. I get mine from Wymore Guitars.com. I use A4's more than any other replacement mag. A3's are useful to give a little more treble than an A2. You might want an A8 to play with. Unless you're pulling them out & making your own surplus, you'll want to have some A5's and A2's handy also.

Let me know if I can help.
 
Re: Samick Torino

Woot Samick Torino lol. Not a bad guitar if i say so myself, i have been playing one for almost 4 years. Im going P-Rails in bridge and neck for mine, with 4 push-pull pots for coil switching, phase, and series/parralel. mmm tasty
 
Re: Samick Torino

Blueman, Thanks, I will have to get some mags to swap and try. I do not know what is standard in this torino. I beleive it is the Middle torino ( TR-2). Oh well anyways. I may open it up and see what exactly I have then perhaps order some caps and pots with mags to try. Never done this before always played through what I had, so this will be a first.
 
Re: Samick Torino

If you have block inlays instead of dots, then it a TR-2. :)

Thanks for the info, yes it is a TR-2 then.
I love it to death, it plays so nice. I owned a '72 SG a few years back, and this would give it a run for its money hands down.
 
Re: Samick Torino

Blueman, Thanks, I will have to get some mags to swap and try. I do not know what is standard in this torino. I beleive it is the Middle torino ( TR-2). Oh well anyways. I may open it up and see what exactly I have then perhaps order some caps and pots with mags to try. Never done this before always played through what I had, so this will be a first.


Most imported guitars have either A5 or ceramic magnets. Alnicos are shiny & heavy (all that metal). Ceramics are darker colored & light weight.

I've been disappointed in the stock Asian PU's myself, and always upgrade to American or European PU's, which give better definition & clarity. I look forward to picking out PU's for a new guitar, or to swap on an existing guitar that doesn't have the sound I want (after first trying replacement magnets & pots). Some guys dread this, but to me its exciting to redo the electronics on a guitar & get greatly improved tones. I do my own set ups too. I think it's best to be hands-on, and know where the sound and playability come from on your guitars. You can immediately tweak things, and save a lot of money. Best of all, you learn new things.
 
Re: Samick Torino

ok well i took my pickups out of my torino and found they are based off the duncan distortion neck and bridge setup, and since have changed my mind on the p-rails and am going with an a4 in the neck and an a5 in the bridge to replace the ceramics
 
Back
Top