SG Jr. Build: Step 3

[St_Genesius]

In my eagerness to get going, I forget to take pictures of Steps 1 (unpacking the kit) and 2 (gluing in the neck). So let's start with taping up the fingerboard and headstock face.




Assuming the weather forecast is correct and the humidity continues to drop this afternoon, color coat will be going on today.

 

[Surgeon]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Oh I already like that... Precision kit?

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Yep. I don't trust my skills enough to start with one of their more expensive models.

 

[GilmourD]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

In for SG shenanigans!

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Okay. 51% humidity. 20 degree difference between temp and dew point. Paint is a go.

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Welp. That could've gone better.

 

[Surgeon]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Yep. I don't trust my skills enough to start with one of their more expensive models.

Hey man, if ai had to build one I'd go with a jr model too, just for the fact that they're killer looking...

Welp. That could've gone better.

How come?

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

I didn't keep my passes as dry and misting as I should have and ended up with tiger striping. Will need to sand down and start over.

Also had some sputtering, despite warming the cans first. Possibly because the passes were too long and the nozzle was cooling.

 

[Snake Aces]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Bummer.

 

[Surgeon]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Learning curve and all. Good luck with the second attempt!

 

[ErikH]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

I'll be following this. Have patience and take each step slowly. It'll come out great. I love mine.

What color are you going with?

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

A very, very (very) thin Pelham Blue, akin to Epi's TV Pelham Blue series. I did a bunch of tests and figured out the technique, but it's easier to get right on a small piece of scrap than on a full instrument.

What's the best way to start over? Acetone followed by 320 grit (same grit the wood was originally finished)?

 

[jtougas]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Is it already sealed and filled?

 

[ErikH]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

No need to go all the way to the wood. Just sand it smooth all over and lay another coat down on top. Rotate the cans in warm water. I had two to three cans of white in warm water and as soon as I felt one start to chill, I swapped. Start the spray off the wood, slightly and bring it on to the wood. That helps keep any initial sputter off. Start 6-8 inches away and try to keep it that way.

 

[ErikH]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Something I need to share; make note of the pickup wire channel to the control cavity. If it is like mine is, it comes in to the treble side bridge post and then out the back to the cavity. There should be a channel that runs around the bridge post hole. That is where you want the pickup wire to go or you'll end up inserting the bridge post, crimping it, and probably breaking it. Trust me, I have first hand experience on this.

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Good tip! I would not have thought to check that.

BTW, I probably DO need to go back down to bare wood - or at least very near it - because the finish I'm aiming for allows the wood grain to show through and, at least in my practice runs, that was only possible with the thinnest of coats.

 

[St_Genesius]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Oh, and to answer JTouglas's question, no, no grain filler under this finish. Just PB on raw Mahogany, covered in lots of clear.

 

[ErikH]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

I laid 3-4 thin coats on mine with the same goal, the Gibson Faded style finish with no filler. It came out better than I expected. And I used Dupont auto paint too with the adjustable nozzel rattle cans.

 

[jtougas]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Hm. I can see why you didn't want to fill, but you may regret not sealing it first...

 

[ErikH]

Re: SG Jr. Build: Step 3

Hm. I can see why you didn't want to fill, but you may regret not sealing it first...

I have to agree here. At least a coat of sanding sealer on it before paint. Let it dry good, then sand it down smooth before paint. It doesn't fill the pores like a filler. Brush it on, let it dry, fine sand it down smooth. And then use a damp cloth with mineral spirits to wipe it down to remove any sanding residue. Paint.