thanks for the instuction.The effect of shortening filister screws is that allows the magnetic flow to be sent to the strings being slightly stronger.
Per se, this doesn't brighten the sound, but it definitely helps playing nuances based on touch-sensitivity and pick attack come across strongly.
I first set the filister screws stagger to even out the output differences between strings, so they basically look like this:
... THEN I cut'em flush with the baseplate. A MUST for neck p'ups, not so much a life-or-death issue on bridge p'ups, if you ask for my personal opinion based on over fifteen years of first-hand experience acquired in the performing of well over a thousand p'up swaps, mods, sweet-spot setting and general guitar setup optimized for both live usage and studio recording.
/Peter
Cool. I may try this on a number of pickups now that I know more about it.The effect of shortening filister screws is that allows the magnetic flow to be sent to the strings being slightly stronger.
Per se, this doesn't brighten the sound, but it definitely helps playing nuances based on touch-sensitivity and pick attack come across strongly.
I first set the filister screws stagger to even out the output differences between strings, so they basically look like this:
... THEN I cut'em flush with the baseplate. A MUST for neck p'ups, not so much a life-or-death issue on bridge p'ups, if you ask for my personal opinion based on over fifteen years of first-hand experience acquired in the performing of well over a thousand p'up swaps, mods, sweet-spot setting and general guitar setup optimized for both live usage and studio recording.
/Peter
Start with one. If you're able to hear a difference and assess that's worth your while it, then proceed with the others. Not every p'up out there produce sensible, audible results. Also, the fact that MORE magnetic flow is directed to the strings, will also alter the location of the "sweet spot" as well. It's like you've gotten a new p'up, ergo, you should treat it accordingly, including altering your amp's tone controls as well.
Yes, that's correct. The depicted p'up is a bridge one, although it was used just to illustrate how the stagger of a typical neck p'up would look like. The actual stagger on the bridge p'up is less pronounced.
No. At the beginning, after I set the stagger, I marked the screws with a sharpie, then I measured the lenght of every single one of them and took notes. In that way, I can cut'em before I put'em in. You can buy'em short now, mind you.
I use a cutter for the length, then a Dremel to finish the base flat with a slight bevel.
I wouldn't know; the area I operate my Dremel on is located far away from the p'up/electronic area. Not because I think about degaussing, mind you; it's just the way my workspace is set.
