Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

Because he said that he can solder but that soldering upstairs, in the cabinet, is a problem. His soldering stuff is in the basement. This allows him to solder in the basement.

Got it.. ok then -nice work.... not all heroes where capes.
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

Got it.. ok then -nice work.... not all heroes where capes.

If one get's a hero badge for this little idea, the concept of heroes has been significantly diluted and flushed down the sh*tter ... :flush:



ps ... personally, I'd just buy and install a new terminal board and be done with it. :dunno:
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

If one get's a hero badge for this little idea, the concept of heroes has been significantly diluted and flushed down the sh*tter ... :flush:



ps ... personally, I'd just buy and install a new terminal board and be done with it. :dunno:

hero is a made up concept to make people do things their brain tell them not to -so don't worry to much about being one this AM.

I'd solder it straight or the terminal board -depending on the type of cabinet (front access or back access) etc.
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

If one get's a hero badge for this little idea, the concept of heroes has been significantly diluted and flushed down the sh*tter ... :flush:



ps ... personally, I'd just buy and install a new terminal board and be done with it. :dunno:

I did a terminal board replacement once, and the screw and nut method to hold the new board in place does not hold fast like the OEM rivet design that held the original board in place. And i am not interested in investing in special tools to install my own rivet.

Modesty is an admirable trait when responding to someone's appreciation. In contrast, going overboard by demeaning their expessed thankfulness is pretty shallow Thanks anyways.
 
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Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

I did a terminal board replacement once, and the screw and nut method to hold the new board in place does not hold fast like the OEM rivet design that held the original board in place. And i am not interested in investing in special tools to install my own rivet.

Modesty is an admirable trait when responding to someone's appreciation. In contrast, going overboard by demeaning their expessed thankfulness is pretty shallow Thanks anyways.

Regarding your last comment, you took my comment the wrong way. C'est la vie'.

Regarding the terminal board replacement, you're right, the single screw boards can have the potential to pivot, although I've never found it to be a real issue. But I don't think replacing a board that's double riveted (like yours) with a board that only takes a single screw or rivet would ever be as "solid". But, a small screw and lock nut works just as well as a rivet.

At any rate. I'm sorry you think I'm demeaning and shallow. I hope I was helpful, regardless. Good luck with it.
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

Regarding your last comment, you took my comment the wrong way.

Then, my apologies.

Regarding my prior experience with replacing a terminal board, i had tried but was not able to find a replacement board where the two holes aligned with the holes in the speaker frame, so that is how i had the disappointing experience with single "screw and nut" fastening method. The speaker in that case was a WGS make, so maybe their screw to screw distance is a different spec and so maybe i would not have that issue with say, the current Celestion speakers in this example.

By the way, i soldered the piggytails onto the speakers and got them loaded into my cabinet yesterday, but didn't have a chance to fire up the amp and test them. Had to prep check the portable generator for possible usage due threat of power outages due to an ice storm here in New England.

One thing, though, i found that the width of the female disconnects on the wires coming from the circuit board in the cabinet, are too narrow to accept the width of the male push-on terminals that i bought recently. So for the last 2 connections, i still had to set up two alligator clips... crazy. Maybe cuz its an older speaker, there has been a change in industry standard spec for disconnect terminal width size between then and modern day (?) - dunno

Will test it out tonight.
 
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Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

They come in two sizes

I usually get matched pairs and swap all connectors, make and female when I do something like this

If the Male is a bit small it's no big deal
But if big it doesn't work
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

They come in two sizes

I usually get matched pairs and swap all connectors, make and female when I do something like this

If the Male is a bit small it's no big deal
But if big it doesn't work

Cool, thanks. At lunch break i went back to the local electronics store and picked up more wire and more of the larger sized terminals.
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

Fired the amp up, tested the "new" speakers with their hybrid connection setup of soldered pigtails, quick connects and alligator clips. Worked like a champ - sounds like i've scored some nicely broken-in speakers. Over the weekend i'll use the supplies i bought earlier today to make two more quick connect wires to replace the two that i am currently having to use alligator clips on.

Thanks to everyone with their suggestions on how to go about getting these connected up.
 
Re: Speaker terminal adaptor / how-to

Actually, they come several sizes. Most common on instrument speaker terminal boards these days is a .187 male terminal. BUT, best female connector to use is a .205 (IMO anyway). A .187 female on a .187 male can get really stuck on there when you go to remove it. .205 is snug but not insanely tight.

Glad it's working out for you.
 
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