Standard trems/tuning
- Thread starter YJM_Rocks
- Start date
rspst14
Tone Cat
Re: Standard trems/tuning
The first thing you should do is make sure the trem is set up properly, and that the strings are wrapped properly around the tuning pegs. Take a look at Scott's post in the vault for a good method of installing strings. If you still experience tuning problems, a graphite nut and locking tuners should be a cheap fix. Fender distributes a brand of Schaller locking tuners that will fit a Strat without any modifications. I think all guitars should come with locking tuners standard, especially guitars with non-locking trems. A graphite nut can also help with tuning stability, as the material is slippery enough to prevent the strings from binding. Graphtec bridge saddles are nice as well,
Ryan
The first thing you should do is make sure the trem is set up properly, and that the strings are wrapped properly around the tuning pegs. Take a look at Scott's post in the vault for a good method of installing strings. If you still experience tuning problems, a graphite nut and locking tuners should be a cheap fix. Fender distributes a brand of Schaller locking tuners that will fit a Strat without any modifications. I think all guitars should come with locking tuners standard, especially guitars with non-locking trems. A graphite nut can also help with tuning stability, as the material is slippery enough to prevent the strings from binding. Graphtec bridge saddles are nice as well,
Ryan
Re: Standard trems/tuning
This is true, a good nut out weighs the locking tuners though, and it doesn't have to be graphite either, a nut is actually properly cut, without square bottoms in the slots nuts, and sides should fall away slightly from the strings.
The depth of the nut slot shouldn't be to deep, and of course the slot should angle up to the break point at the edge of the fingerboard (that being said some PRSs' have incredibly high *walls* on either side of the strings, but work perfectly). Have someone check the nut at the set-up, if need be those nut slots need to be rounded on the bottoms with the proper break point angle, and nut walls angling away slightly so the string is free to slide back and forth. True enough that a proper setup with a nut in ideal condition, and strings wound and stretched properly will go a *LONG* way towards keeping everything in tune. Often a setup and a little filing on the nut is all that's required to keep it in tune for everything except divebombing stuff.
rspst14 said:
This is true, a good nut out weighs the locking tuners though, and it doesn't have to be graphite either, a nut is actually properly cut, without square bottoms in the slots nuts, and sides should fall away slightly from the strings.
The depth of the nut slot shouldn't be to deep, and of course the slot should angle up to the break point at the edge of the fingerboard (that being said some PRSs' have incredibly high *walls* on either side of the strings, but work perfectly). Have someone check the nut at the set-up, if need be those nut slots need to be rounded on the bottoms with the proper break point angle, and nut walls angling away slightly so the string is free to slide back and forth. True enough that a proper setup with a nut in ideal condition, and strings wound and stretched properly will go a *LONG* way towards keeping everything in tune. Often a setup and a little filing on the nut is all that's required to keep it in tune for everything except divebombing stuff.
