Swapping an epi bridge
- Thread starter BloodRose
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Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Ok, Ill give that a try. Worst case scenario.. Ive never removed the anchors from a body. I'm concerned that when I pull them out, there will be damage done to the top of the guitar. What is the best/safest way to remove the old post anchors?? thanks
Ok, Ill give that a try. Worst case scenario.. Ive never removed the anchors from a body. I'm concerned that when I pull them out, there will be damage done to the top of the guitar. What is the best/safest way to remove the old post anchors?? thanks
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
They'll be the same M8 thread. Unless there is a color mismatch, I would leave the old ones in. I don't swap inserts when replacing bridges in my import guitars and haven't seen an issue due to dissimilar metals or for any other reason. They are probably all just "pot metal" (probably die cast zinc) inserts. Maybe the expensive bridges come with a better quality insert. If you are worried about the quality of the inserts, Faber does make a replacement, steel insert for metric guitars. Never used them so I don't know if there is any real difference that translates to improved tone or sustain or whatever. If I was going to bother pulling them, I would replace with better quality like the Fabers. Only problem is the Fabers only come in two colors. Check the Faber USA website.
They'll be the same M8 thread. Unless there is a color mismatch, I would leave the old ones in. I don't swap inserts when replacing bridges in my import guitars and haven't seen an issue due to dissimilar metals or for any other reason. They are probably all just "pot metal" (probably die cast zinc) inserts. Maybe the expensive bridges come with a better quality insert. If you are worried about the quality of the inserts, Faber does make a replacement, steel insert for metric guitars. Never used them so I don't know if there is any real difference that translates to improved tone or sustain or whatever. If I was going to bother pulling them, I would replace with better quality like the Fabers. Only problem is the Fabers only come in two colors. Check the Faber USA website.
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Wattage
High Voltologist
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
If you need to pull them see if they just come out by grabbing the posts and pulling. I've seen where they are not glued in at all. Otherwise heat them up lightly with a soldering iron to soften the glue put the posts back and pull.
I'd be more concerned that it is wasted effort than anything. Sometimes the outside diameter of the inserts don't match up and you end up putting the originals right back in.
If you need to pull them see if they just come out by grabbing the posts and pulling. I've seen where they are not glued in at all. Otherwise heat them up lightly with a soldering iron to soften the glue put the posts back and pull.
I'd be more concerned that it is wasted effort than anything. Sometimes the outside diameter of the inserts don't match up and you end up putting the originals right back in.
jake_xms3_punk
New member
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Ye I wouldn't bother removing the inserts, especially since there are available posts/adapters that fit in them.
Ye I wouldn't bother removing the inserts, especially since there are available posts/adapters that fit in them.
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
They come out easy by threading a long, M8 thread bolt down into them. The bolt will hit the wood underneath the insert and you just keep tightening and the insert will be pushed up and out.
The potential downsides to removing them ...
- If the poly wasn't cured when they set the inserts, it could stick and chip when you pull them out.
-The new inserts rim could be smaller diameter and not completely cover the mark left by the old bushing (you can just measure first).
- The new inserts O.D. could be slightly smaller and not fit tight in the body hole.
That's about all I can think of.
I just dug up a set of Gotoh inserts that I didn't use. They are very light and non-magnetic. Meaning, they are probably die cast zinc / "pot metal".
They come out easy by threading a long, M8 thread bolt down into them. The bolt will hit the wood underneath the insert and you just keep tightening and the insert will be pushed up and out.
The potential downsides to removing them ...
- If the poly wasn't cured when they set the inserts, it could stick and chip when you pull them out.
-The new inserts rim could be smaller diameter and not completely cover the mark left by the old bushing (you can just measure first).
- The new inserts O.D. could be slightly smaller and not fit tight in the body hole.
That's about all I can think of.
I just dug up a set of Gotoh inserts that I didn't use. They are very light and non-magnetic. Meaning, they are probably die cast zinc / "pot metal".
DrNewcenstein
He Did the Monster Mash
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Why'd you get a Gotoh bridge for your Epi? Didn't it come with a Gotoh bridge?
Why'd you get a Gotoh bridge for your Epi? Didn't it come with a Gotoh bridge?
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
No, came with the epi bridge that has the wire that goes over the top of the screws to hold the saddles in place.
thnks for the info everyone. The new bridge came with posts and inserts. I wont replace the inserts if I dont have to as I dont want to risk damaging the top by pulling them out, or end up having more problems..
No, came with the epi bridge that has the wire that goes over the top of the screws to hold the saddles in place.
thnks for the info everyone. The new bridge came with posts and inserts. I wont replace the inserts if I dont have to as I dont want to risk damaging the top by pulling them out, or end up having more problems..
DrNewcenstein
He Did the Monster Mash
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
I wasn't aware Gotoh was a style, I thought it was a brand.
Ok, fine, I'll be more direct: "Who made the bridge that's on it now?", because, depending on who made it, you may want to consider ripping out the inserts and using the Gotohs. Thread tolerances vary from foreign sweatshop to foreign sweatshop, and the Gotoh posts may not fit as well in the OEM inserts, resulting in poor tone due to poor contact between the posts and inserts.
I wasn't aware Gotoh was a style, I thought it was a brand.
Ok, fine, I'll be more direct: "Who made the bridge that's on it now?", because, depending on who made it, you may want to consider ripping out the inserts and using the Gotohs. Thread tolerances vary from foreign sweatshop to foreign sweatshop, and the Gotoh posts may not fit as well in the OEM inserts, resulting in poor tone due to poor contact between the posts and inserts.
Wattage
High Voltologist
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
They're Epi branded parts out of the factory. Couldn't tell you if they are made for Epi or if they are done in house.
Generally I would swap the bridge pretty quickly but I don't know if they're using better materials now or if I just don't give a crap anymore but I like this bridge enough not to bother with it. It has these spring clips internally that keep the bridge and tail in place which is kind of nice.
They're Epi branded parts out of the factory. Couldn't tell you if they are made for Epi or if they are done in house.
Generally I would swap the bridge pretty quickly but I don't know if they're using better materials now or if I just don't give a crap anymore but I like this bridge enough not to bother with it. It has these spring clips internally that keep the bridge and tail in place which is kind of nice.
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L
Little Pigbacon
Guest
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
I thought it was a brand, too. It's cast into the underside of the Tone Pros bridges I've bought and the bridge that came on my Jackson SL2HT.
I thought it was a brand, too. It's cast into the underside of the Tone Pros bridges I've bought and the bridge that came on my Jackson SL2HT.
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Don't the Epihones use that magnetic bridge and tailpiece? Lock-tone or tone-lock or something or other, they call it. I have no idea if it does what they claim it does but unless I had a problem with it, I probably wouldn't replace it with another cheap bridge unless there was some type of problem.
Don't the Epihones use that magnetic bridge and tailpiece? Lock-tone or tone-lock or something or other, they call it. I have no idea if it does what they claim it does but unless I had a problem with it, I probably wouldn't replace it with another cheap bridge unless there was some type of problem.
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Darg1911, the lock tone is not magnetic, but yes, mine is lock tone. Basically it has a couple thin metal flaps that stick out in the hole where the bridge fits on the post. The flaps keep it from falling off if you turn it upside down. better than regular, but not solid like a Tonepros.
Wattage, Ive used stock epi bridges in the past with little worry, but, when I got this guitar, the wire that retains the saddle adjustment screws was bent to where it was touching the underside of the low strings. When I tore it down to work on it, (and clean it up) without thinking, I flipped it over and all the saddles hit the floor.. I thought to my self: A)what a pain as I had to put it all back together figuring what saddle goes where, etc and bend the wire back to shape. B) The saddles basically sit in there loose, with just the wire to hold em in place, so I figure that cant be great for sound transference. So, Im changing the bridge.. On the Gotoh, the adjustment screws go all the way through.
Darg1911, the lock tone is not magnetic, but yes, mine is lock tone. Basically it has a couple thin metal flaps that stick out in the hole where the bridge fits on the post. The flaps keep it from falling off if you turn it upside down. better than regular, but not solid like a Tonepros.
Wattage, Ive used stock epi bridges in the past with little worry, but, when I got this guitar, the wire that retains the saddle adjustment screws was bent to where it was touching the underside of the low strings. When I tore it down to work on it, (and clean it up) without thinking, I flipped it over and all the saddles hit the floor.. I thought to my self: A)what a pain as I had to put it all back together figuring what saddle goes where, etc and bend the wire back to shape. B) The saddles basically sit in there loose, with just the wire to hold em in place, so I figure that cant be great for sound transference. So, Im changing the bridge.. On the Gotoh, the adjustment screws go all the way through.
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Ah, I see now. Thanks. I googled it and checked it out too. Meh. Nice that it stays in place but if it needs to go it needs to go. Biggest problem I have had with import abr style bridges with retainer wire is buzz/rattle. Plus, I think that Gotoh will give you a little more intonation adjustment range.
Ah, I see now. Thanks. I googled it and checked it out too. Meh. Nice that it stays in place but if it needs to go it needs to go. Biggest problem I have had with import abr style bridges with retainer wire is buzz/rattle. Plus, I think that Gotoh will give you a little more intonation adjustment range.
Re: Swapping an epi bridge
Yes, but there should be a difference between a well made abr and a Sung Il abr. I don't think it's the wire that buzzes by the way, I'm pretty sure it's the saddles. It could be the wire resonating up against the screws on the outside of the bridge where they contact. Maybe it's either or, or, both. Haven't had a problem with buzzing with import Nashville style or the small Sung Il roller bridges.
I do have two or three imports that I still consider replacing the bridges with a USA made or other quality bridge. The guitars are well worth it, but I just don't know how much of a difference it would make. Maybe I should start a thread for opinions.
Yes, but there should be a difference between a well made abr and a Sung Il abr. I don't think it's the wire that buzzes by the way, I'm pretty sure it's the saddles. It could be the wire resonating up against the screws on the outside of the bridge where they contact. Maybe it's either or, or, both. Haven't had a problem with buzzing with import Nashville style or the small Sung Il roller bridges.
I do have two or three imports that I still consider replacing the bridges with a USA made or other quality bridge. The guitars are well worth it, but I just don't know how much of a difference it would make. Maybe I should start a thread for opinions.
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