The Advanced TripleShot Wiring Thread

DrNewcenstein

He Did the Monster Mash
Ok, these have been available for a while now, so who here has tried advanced wiring options (i.e. stuff besides the standard Series/Parallel/Split)?

Granted you can do Phase Inversion with a Push/Pull at the end of the hookup, but what about doing that and other non-standard things with just the ring itself?


To aid in the theoretical research (to spare anyone from hours of soldering experiments), I've mapped out the PCB setups here:

TripleShot.jpg



If anyone has Diagram Studio, here's the .dsd file for use in that:
http://newcenstein.com/projects/mods/TripleShot.dsd



These diagrams were made by removing the switches from the board so I could see all the tracers (using a flashlight and a magnifying glass as well to see all the connections), and should be accurate. Corrections are always welcome.


Using this schematic, as well as the diagrams from the main site, one should be able to transpose standard pot/switch wiring schemes to the TS system without modding either of the boards (though I'm sure for some options, that will be required).


Although, the Contact board could be removed and replaced with a custom board, perhaps in the control cavity (using extensions to the ribbon cable) or even mounted to the pickup's baseplate (hmmmmm).


As an aside, here's a Library file I made for DS. It's got pickups (Hum, Single, Lil/Jr, P-Rail), switches (Super 5-way, toggles, etc), pots (standard, concentric, push-pull, prewired Tone pots, etc), and jacks. Pretty much everything you'd need (except the TS stuff) to jump into wiring diagrams.

http://newcenstein.com/projects/mods/WiringMods.dsl

If you don't have Diagram Studio, I do recommend it if you're interested in mocking up wiring diagrams before soldering, and don't want to scribble notes on paper or Photoslop something together.


Updated pic with switch tabs numbered - makes it a little easier to follow/diagram.
 
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Re: The Advanced TripleShot Wiring Thread

Since we know the Standard TripleShot wiring:

TripleShot-std.jpg


And we know the switches are DPDT, so if we number the switch contacts, we can see that both switches set to 1,2,3,4 (outer and middle) gives us Parallel, and both set to 3,4,5,6 (inner and middle) gives us Series (default).


Now, how do we transpose this diagram:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=phase_switching_for_hb

So that it is controlled by the TS?

With the switches being hardwired to a circuit, it would seem that we have to sacrifice a standard TS option to gain selectable Phase options.


So let's say you have 2 humbuckers and 2 TripleShots, and you want the TS options on the neck, but only Phase options on the bridge.

Looking at the switch for Phase inversion, and again numbering the tabs 1-6, we see that the Black goes to 3 and the Green+Bare goes to 4 (the middle tabs).

1 and 6 are connected, with 1 going to Hot, and 2 and 5 are connected, with 2 going to Ground.

Since we know there are internal connections (1+2+3+4 or 3+4+5+6 dependent on the direction of the DPDT switch), we can see that we need to make these same connections on the TripleShot.

Looking again at the TS schematic, C-Black (Contact board) is connected to 3 on SW1, and C-Red is connected to 4 on SW1. 3 and 4 on SW2 are hardwired together, so that means we can't use those.

So, connect the Black wire of the bridge pickup to Black of the contact board (and thus to tab 3 on SW1) and the Green+Bare to Red of the contact board (which is connected to tab 4 of Switch 1).

The pickup's Red and White will be joined together and taped off, as they're not being used.


Now, we need to get 1 and 6 connected and 2 and 5 connected, with 2 going to Ground and 1 going to Hot. We can't use SW1 for this as 2 is connected to 3, so we'll have to use SW2.
We can do this by soldering a small jumper to the bottom of SW2's respective contacts, but that's a small target to hit, and it adds bulk under the side of the ring. From my experience, there's not enough room under there for extra wires.



So, Green is connected to tab 2 of SW2, but 5 is not connected at any time.
If you're surgically-precise, you can dribble a trail of solder from 2 to 5, but that leaves 1 and 6.
1 is connected to a square metal tab and nothing else. Even the tab isn't connected to anything. If we assume this is a common/free point, then we can dribble some solder onto it and connect 6 to 1 this way.

However, 6 of SW1 and 6 of SW2 are directly linked. Will this cause a problem? Probably, but what?


Anyone else got any ideas?
 
Re: The Advanced TripleShot Wiring Thread

Hey, thanks for replying on the other thread.

I'm letting some Luthier build a custom guitar for me. The more features, more expensive it gets. So since I already did some soldering in my PRS, I was thinking installing the preamp myself rather than let him do it to save money. The problem probably will be, if the triple shot idea does not work out: I will be "stuck" with a guitar without the LR baggs ctrl X preamp (or need to switch to GT Preamp, which ultimately is more expensive due to unused Baggs preamp and broke triple shot) OR probably drill a hole myself...

I've used your diagram to make up some ideas. :) Great input with regards to the cavity, but I would reckon there is some cavity (because it is the same place as the screw/spring of pickup/mounting ring.

My question:
I understand that the output wires of the pickup go to the corresponding solder spots (R/W/G/B). I understand how the mounting ring circuit board works, and how the signals from the pickup go to the mounting ring circuit board. What I do not understand is how the signals from the mounting ring circuit board goes to the output?

Ultimately, guess an extra switch on the guitar for mag/piezo/mix is not that bad. Then I can use the triple shot for its real purpose, to create even more versatility :-)

Cheers
 
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