krankguitarist
Krankitupologist
Alright, I'm making a pedal for an unnamed-unless-he-wants-to-be-named forum bro around here.
First off I'll post the disclaimer: I'm not getting paid to build this pedal. I'm only being compensated for parts/materials. This isn't my design, nor am I trying to pass it off as such.
Now that we're done with that...
The Uni-vibe is a pretty strange effect, and is a little daunting of a build for an intermediate-level pedal builder like myself. This pedal aims to achieve the same tone, except as a simplified variant. And LED's instead of an incandescent bulb. Ahhhh....much easier.
So, let us get started:
First off, we have the design. This pedal was designed by John Hollis, and the layout was put together by RG Keen from GEO.
Next step is to get the PNP blue ready. This stuff bonds onto a copper-clad board and acts as a resist against whatever etchant we decide to use. I get the printout all ready, and my hand seems to like it:
Next comes the cleaning of the board. It's cut to size, and then gone over with a little steel wool and soap. At this point I decide that this project also requires beer. So I grab my cheap-beer-that-I-got-for-3-dollars-a-six-pack-that-isn't-too-bad-actually and get to scrubbing:
Oooh, shiny.
I transfer the PNP blue onto the board after almost burning my freakin hand with the iron. Then I realize, "hell, this layout calls for a vertical-mount trimpot, and I've only got a horizontal mount!". No worries, a little sharpie mark and I've got a usable (albiet a bit unsightly) resist:
Now its time to etch. This was my first time using sodium persulfate, as opposed to ferric chloride. The etchant eats away all the copper around the resist, leaving you with only the copper underneath the resist to work with. Sodium persulfate doesn't make for the fastest etch in the world, but it seems to have worked pretty well:
This board took about an hour to an hour and a half or so. Ferric chloride typically takes about 30 minutes for a board like this.
Last step for the day trim the fat, remove the resist, and center-punch where the holes are gonna be. Boom. We got a board ready for drilling!
Drilling comes tomorrow though...It's been a long day, and Dan need's some rest. Maybe I'll even get some of the board populated tomorrow. Who knows
.
This is Dan, signing off of the crappy pictorial for the day.
First off I'll post the disclaimer: I'm not getting paid to build this pedal. I'm only being compensated for parts/materials. This isn't my design, nor am I trying to pass it off as such.
Now that we're done with that...
The Uni-vibe is a pretty strange effect, and is a little daunting of a build for an intermediate-level pedal builder like myself. This pedal aims to achieve the same tone, except as a simplified variant. And LED's instead of an incandescent bulb. Ahhhh....much easier.
So, let us get started:
First off, we have the design. This pedal was designed by John Hollis, and the layout was put together by RG Keen from GEO.
Next step is to get the PNP blue ready. This stuff bonds onto a copper-clad board and acts as a resist against whatever etchant we decide to use. I get the printout all ready, and my hand seems to like it:
Next comes the cleaning of the board. It's cut to size, and then gone over with a little steel wool and soap. At this point I decide that this project also requires beer. So I grab my cheap-beer-that-I-got-for-3-dollars-a-six-pack-that-isn't-too-bad-actually and get to scrubbing:
Oooh, shiny.
I transfer the PNP blue onto the board after almost burning my freakin hand with the iron. Then I realize, "hell, this layout calls for a vertical-mount trimpot, and I've only got a horizontal mount!". No worries, a little sharpie mark and I've got a usable (albiet a bit unsightly) resist:
Now its time to etch. This was my first time using sodium persulfate, as opposed to ferric chloride. The etchant eats away all the copper around the resist, leaving you with only the copper underneath the resist to work with. Sodium persulfate doesn't make for the fastest etch in the world, but it seems to have worked pretty well:
This board took about an hour to an hour and a half or so. Ferric chloride typically takes about 30 minutes for a board like this.
Last step for the day trim the fat, remove the resist, and center-punch where the holes are gonna be. Boom. We got a board ready for drilling!
Drilling comes tomorrow though...It's been a long day, and Dan need's some rest. Maybe I'll even get some of the board populated tomorrow. Who knows
.This is Dan, signing off of the crappy pictorial for the day.
