Tools needed to re-fret
- Thread starter solspirit
- Start date
ehdwuld
A Ficus
End cutter flush cut
used to remove frets and trim the ends
Crowning file
Used to make those ball ends and re Crowning after leveling
Plastic faced small hammer
For setting the fret
Small hand files for doing the edges
If you don't do ball end.
Use diamond files if you are installing SS frets
Radius wheels
to get the wire radiused before sizing
you may be able to do this by hand with practice
But you Are here asking so you probably wont have time to practice
Leveling block
Polishing
Maybe a soldering iron to heat the fret for removing
Edit
Adding magic marker as recommended by Steve
used to remove frets and trim the ends
Crowning file
Used to make those ball ends and re Crowning after leveling
Plastic faced small hammer
For setting the fret
Small hand files for doing the edges
If you don't do ball end.
Use diamond files if you are installing SS frets
Radius wheels
to get the wire radiused before sizing
you may be able to do this by hand with practice
But you Are here asking so you probably wont have time to practice
Leveling block
Polishing
Maybe a soldering iron to heat the fret for removing
Edit
Adding magic marker as recommended by Steve
Last edited:
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
This is a pretty good list.
As a noob I never needed the radius wheels - it was possible to just bend by hand and eyeball until they match the fretboard radius, but it would have made things easier I think. A couple different shorter length straight edges are also very helpful in the levelling stage to find high spots in frets. A magic marker is useful when crowning - you mark the fret with the marker, then file until there's a thin line left right down the top center of the fret. Personally, after hammering in on a few guitars I'd way rather have a fret press than hammer them in. I'm also in the camp who thinks frets should always be glued in with a tiny bit of very thin CA - it seems to prevent problems years down the road if the guitar is exposed to big humidity changes and is easy to remove when refretting.
Chistopher
malapterurus electricus tonewood instigator
I would also recommend a junk neck for your first fret pull job if that wasn't already the plan. First time I did it, I messed up the fret board pretty bad for the first fret frets I did.
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
FWIW, I found pulling frets was pretty easy. Gently wiggle a razor blade under the edges of the fret to try to scrape out crud. Then run the soldering iron over a fret, grab the fret firmly with end nippers, pull up gently while rocking . Don't go quickly, don't pull fast, make sure that the fret is very hot with the soldering iron (hot enough to melt the glue, not hot enough that fretboard smokes) and you should be fine.
RanchManSandy
Active member
I would seriously consider getting an arbor press and cauls for different radii instead of hammering frets in. So much time saved
Chris Pile
Well-known member
Arbor press and cauls cost too much. Leave them for production situations, not the occasional job.
I've been fretting and refretting since 1977. I use a copper hammer to seat the frets. Use a 3 cornered file to put a slight bevel on the slots to ease the fret nibs into the board. If you decide to glue them down, use Titebond for light colored woods, hide glue for dark.
ehdwuld
A Ficus
I agree with all of this
if you are doing a lot of necks a caul and arbor would make sense
I got one of these from Harbor Freight
https://a.co/d/fdaB861
they have brass hammers as well , should be similar to the copper Mr Pile speaks of
RanchManSandy
Active member
not really, I mean compared to a hammer, sure, I guess. But if I was gonna do one refret a month for money, a harbor freight press and a selection of $4 inserts from Philly luthiery supply are well, well worth it imo. It'll pay for itself in 1 or 2 refret jobs
If I was doing 1 or 2 a year, sure, go hammer, idc
ehdwuld
A Ficus
maybe this then
the fret setter
https://a.co/d/agswP10
if you want the balled end frets on the stainless wire
then you should get the rotatory tool that has the
the fret setter
https://a.co/d/agswP10
if you want the balled end frets on the stainless wire
then you should get the rotatory tool that has the
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
Those fret ends are hot sex.
solspirit
Ultimate Post Liker
Awesome, I love modifying tools. gf has a nice Dremel tool. I've been thinking about a buffer for a while also.
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RanchManSandy
Active member
it's astonishing that guy put "the poor person's process" in the title and then shows off a professional buffing wheel, nice looking arbor, and diamond coated bits lmao
ehdwuld
A Ficus
they have a $300 tool that mounts in the arbor of a drill press that does this too
they showed it on Phil McNight's Youtube and Texas Toast videos
it is the expensive way
some of us men folk have these things anyways
EDIT
you can do the same thing with a crowning file
just takes a lot longer
thats what he said at the beginning
making the dremel version is just what he saw the guy on Highline Guitars do
they showed it on Phil McNight's Youtube and Texas Toast videos
it is the expensive way
some of us men folk have these things anyways
EDIT
you can do the same thing with a crowning file
just takes a lot longer
thats what he said at the beginning
making the dremel version is just what he saw the guy on Highline Guitars do
Last edited:
Chris Pile
Well-known member
Semi-hemispherical fret ends are just luthiers showing off to other luthiers. There is no advantage beyond looking nice, and most players don't even notice unless it's pointed out.
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
Sure. But I don't ever want to feel sharp, rough fret ends again and those ones look good. I've had way too many fret ends that sucked but were deemed good enough by a luthier in a hurry.
