Vintage Gibson Flattops

schecterplayer

schecterplayer

New member
I just acquired a Gibson J-50, which I think is from either 1966 or 1969 (Gibson 60's serialization is rather bizarre). I don't really know much about them other than what I've seen in a quick google search, it has the adjustable wooden saddle. I'm curious what you guys know about these models, apparently it is the same guitar as the J-45 but with a natural finish.
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

I used to have a late 60s J160E.

I really didn't like it. It had a tiny little neck and sounded like poop as an acoustic and it sounded like poop as an electric.
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

I have a Gibson JGO. It was my first good guitar and I literally beat the crap out of it. I bought it new in 66,67, or 68. Not sure. It has several top cracks and a major crack on the side that makes it unplayable, but I learned how to play on that guitar. Its now a wall decoration in my studio. I believe the sides are Mahogany & the top was spruce. RW bridge & FB. I really liked this guitar. The top cracks came from a friend who stepped on it, the side crack.... well it fell while standing against the wall. It really isn't worth the effort to fix it so I never really did. But I really did enjoy that guitar.

The J50 is a much nicer guitar. The only problem is the stupid bridge. Who ever thought an adjustable bridge on acoustic guitar would work! What I would do is take it to a luthier & have them repair the bridge to a drop in saddle design. This would require plugging the hole with some wood that would match the bridge. Find the intonation point then routing a new channel for a bone saddle. That is what I would do if it were mine.
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

Those late 60's Gibson flat tops can be hit or miss to be honest but like Dave said that bridge design is just a terrible idea...

Take it to a good luthier and have a more traditional bridge saddle put in for maximum contact and maximum sustain and you'll be much better off.

While said luthier has the guitar have him go over it top to bottom for loose braces or any cracks that might be an issue...once the guitar is solid and sound then just listen to it objectively and see what you think...if you like the sound then it is good!
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

It actualy sounds pretty decent, there are no cracks in the wood that I can tell, just a lot of finish cracking. I'll check it for loose braces though, hadn't thought of that, but it doesn't rattle or buzz at all. Sound pretty nice but it is missing some of that shimmery top end that a good flattop usually has, could be because of the saddle.
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

schecterplayer said:
It actualy sounds pretty decent, there are no cracks in the wood that I can tell, just a lot of finish cracking. I'll check it for loose braces though, hadn't thought of that, but it doesn't rattle or buzz at all. Sound pretty nice but it is missing some of that shimmery top end that a good flattop usually has, could be because of the saddle.
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It doesn't have that shimmery top end because it's a D size Gibson... that's not really what you are going to get with that guitar.

Get the saddle issue "fixed" and you'll get a better, stronger attack with more sustain and if you want more clarity try some phosphor bronze strings...
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

It would also be a good idea to have the neck angle checked. Most acoustics at some point in its life will need a neck set. That can be costly. Have it checked.
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

Good call!

to the OP...I know you are saying you don't see any cracks, etc but have it checked out if you like it...you're talking about a piece of wood that 40+ years old that likely has never had a good once over...

Acoustic guitars are much more susceptible to taking on moisture and that can caused damage plus 40+ years of string tension...

If you want to see it make another 40 years have it looked at...the cost will be worth the payoff in the end.
 
Re: Vintage Gibson Flattops

Neck angle is good actually although a slight fret level is in order because there's a high spot where the neck meets the body. I'll have the shop luthier cheek out the bracings and generally give it a check-up, see what he has to say. For the bridge fix, do you recommend a whole new bridge or should you just fill in the slot and install a bone saddle?

Oh, I just put on a set of phosphor bronze elixirs and I got back most of the highs I was looking for. It was probably just ten plus year old strings.

The Kluson tuners are pretty stiff, but they have a hole to add grease so I'll give that a try before I buy a new set. Anyone know what kind of grease they take and if you need a special tool? I've only owned guitars with sealed tuners before.
 
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