Folks-
Many of you have been kind enough to give input on my warmouth p90 project and I'm getting close enough that I would like your input as to how this will sound and what parts I should consider- It’s a pretty big project, so please take a look, offer ideas on any aspect you know, and help me get my specs even better before I start ordering parts!
Goals: Build a rather unusual P90 gtr to get sounds and feel I am after- I want a hum free sound that has more bite than my humbucker gtrs and is thicker than my strats. I want to get much of the mahogany tone that I got off my old p90 SG. But I also want flexibility for a number of pup combinations. And unlike most P90 options I want the feel of a 25.5, wide, think maple fboard, with med low action and .10 strings.
Other than a more traditional 3+3 headstock, this is how I expect it to look:
Summary:
-L5 mahogany flat top body for classic sound, mass, lots of room for electronics
-25.5 Mahanoy neck with maple fingerboard- Wide, thin profile
-hard tail tailpiece
-locking tuners.
-Two 5 way switches control to p90 and once dual rail sc for following combinations that Artie and others are helping me develop:
P90 Switch
1. Bridge
2. Bridge+neck parallel
3. Bridge + neck series
4. Bridge + neck series out of phase
5. Neck
SC-Twin blade's 5way switch
1. single coil that is hum complimentary to bridge P90
2. Off
3. Full SC rail with spin a split
4. P90s off, full SC rail with spin a split
5. Single coil that is hum complimentary to neck P90
Right now I'm considering set of Vintage soapbars or stacks for the p90s and either a cool rail or a Dmz cruiser for the middle. Master vol, tone, and dual rail spin a split
So here's some questions for you-
What sound would you expect this to have?
Going from vintage p90SG to more modern P90 sounds, what other pups would you consider?
What about the idea of using some sort of 'quick release' connectors so that I can switch out pups while I'm getting the right combination- Any experience with this or ideas how to do it?
Which locking tuners would you consider?
I want a hard tail strat type of tailpiece- What would you suggest
Warmouth offers angled and non-angled headstocks- Can you compare and contrast?
I want to keep straight string runs, avoid string trees and think I will go with the warmouth 3+3 headstock shape, but any comments from a 'keeping in tune' pov?
Shielding- Have read much about star grounding and expect to use foil, but do you have a definitive source? For now I’m using the ‘Guitar nuts’ directions/
Parts- Any ideas on how to double check a parts list to make sure I have all the right parts and that they work together?
Finishing- I used to refinish gtrs all the time as a kid, but it consisted of lots of spray painting, sanding, and polycoats on top- Considering I will have to seal the mahogany and have to coat the fingerboard as well, does anyone have a definitive source on best-easiest practices?
Placement of the 5 ways-
I think I want the 5 way switches about as close to each other as possible so that I can grab both and move them to the same position much of the time- But should I offset them a bit to make it easier to grab, or to see? Or if they are right next to each other will it be easiest to tell where each switch is?
Many of you have been kind enough to give input on my warmouth p90 project and I'm getting close enough that I would like your input as to how this will sound and what parts I should consider- It’s a pretty big project, so please take a look, offer ideas on any aspect you know, and help me get my specs even better before I start ordering parts!
Goals: Build a rather unusual P90 gtr to get sounds and feel I am after- I want a hum free sound that has more bite than my humbucker gtrs and is thicker than my strats. I want to get much of the mahogany tone that I got off my old p90 SG. But I also want flexibility for a number of pup combinations. And unlike most P90 options I want the feel of a 25.5, wide, think maple fboard, with med low action and .10 strings.
Other than a more traditional 3+3 headstock, this is how I expect it to look:
Summary:
-L5 mahogany flat top body for classic sound, mass, lots of room for electronics
-25.5 Mahanoy neck with maple fingerboard- Wide, thin profile
-hard tail tailpiece
-locking tuners.
-Two 5 way switches control to p90 and once dual rail sc for following combinations that Artie and others are helping me develop:
P90 Switch
1. Bridge
2. Bridge+neck parallel
3. Bridge + neck series
4. Bridge + neck series out of phase
5. Neck
SC-Twin blade's 5way switch
1. single coil that is hum complimentary to bridge P90
2. Off
3. Full SC rail with spin a split
4. P90s off, full SC rail with spin a split
5. Single coil that is hum complimentary to neck P90
Right now I'm considering set of Vintage soapbars or stacks for the p90s and either a cool rail or a Dmz cruiser for the middle. Master vol, tone, and dual rail spin a split
So here's some questions for you-
What sound would you expect this to have?
Going from vintage p90SG to more modern P90 sounds, what other pups would you consider?
What about the idea of using some sort of 'quick release' connectors so that I can switch out pups while I'm getting the right combination- Any experience with this or ideas how to do it?
Which locking tuners would you consider?
I want a hard tail strat type of tailpiece- What would you suggest
Warmouth offers angled and non-angled headstocks- Can you compare and contrast?
I want to keep straight string runs, avoid string trees and think I will go with the warmouth 3+3 headstock shape, but any comments from a 'keeping in tune' pov?
Shielding- Have read much about star grounding and expect to use foil, but do you have a definitive source? For now I’m using the ‘Guitar nuts’ directions/
Parts- Any ideas on how to double check a parts list to make sure I have all the right parts and that they work together?
Finishing- I used to refinish gtrs all the time as a kid, but it consisted of lots of spray painting, sanding, and polycoats on top- Considering I will have to seal the mahogany and have to coat the fingerboard as well, does anyone have a definitive source on best-easiest practices?
Placement of the 5 ways-
I think I want the 5 way switches about as close to each other as possible so that I can grab both and move them to the same position much of the time- But should I offset them a bit to make it easier to grab, or to see? Or if they are right next to each other will it be easiest to tell where each switch is?
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