Whats involved with sanding a neck?
- Thread starter BloodRose
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King IzzO)))
Ultimate Kitten Puncher
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
Just play it and get used to it man, that's a ton of effort and risk for minimal reward.
Two of my guitars have the same neck profile.
Just play it and get used to it man, that's a ton of effort and risk for minimal reward.
Two of my guitars have the same neck profile.
kramersteen
PowerMetalRaph
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
I have 16 guitars all with different necks some fat some slim. I honestly couldnt care i find them all great.
Has your charvel got a skunk stripe? If so i would forget about it. They can be really thin and easy to break through.
You Could sand it back if you really want.
I have 16 guitars all with different necks some fat some slim. I honestly couldnt care i find them all great.
Has your charvel got a skunk stripe? If so i would forget about it. They can be really thin and easy to break through.
You Could sand it back if you really want.
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CTN
The Drama Dude
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
what's involved? lots of elbow grease. (do not apply actual grease from your elbows to refinish it though).
I'd start off with some super heavy grit like 80 or 60 for some really aggressive removal of material. Keep checking it for the thickness you want (might wanna work towards quantifiable measurements). Once it's approximately what you want, start working your way up the grits, to 100-120, 220, 320 and maybe 400 if you want to. Make sure it's evenly sanded everywhere, and when you're done, wipe it down to remove any sawdust on the surface.
You can use a power sander if you want to make your life a bit easier, but be careful about how much material you remove cuz it will go a LOT faster than just using your arms, and it will leave a profile that won't be as nicely curved as with your hands. You'll have to fix that using your hands anyway, or a curved sanding block
Then get some clean rags and start oiling it with tung oil, tru oil or danish oil. The application method is all the same, but tung oil and tru oil requires more coats/re-coats after the fact than danish oil which sets up and hardens more like a varnish than an oil finish.
what's involved? lots of elbow grease. (do not apply actual grease from your elbows to refinish it though).
I'd start off with some super heavy grit like 80 or 60 for some really aggressive removal of material. Keep checking it for the thickness you want (might wanna work towards quantifiable measurements). Once it's approximately what you want, start working your way up the grits, to 100-120, 220, 320 and maybe 400 if you want to. Make sure it's evenly sanded everywhere, and when you're done, wipe it down to remove any sawdust on the surface.
You can use a power sander if you want to make your life a bit easier, but be careful about how much material you remove cuz it will go a LOT faster than just using your arms, and it will leave a profile that won't be as nicely curved as with your hands. You'll have to fix that using your hands anyway, or a curved sanding block
Then get some clean rags and start oiling it with tung oil, tru oil or danish oil. The application method is all the same, but tung oil and tru oil requires more coats/re-coats after the fact than danish oil which sets up and hardens more like a varnish than an oil finish.
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zenmindbeginner
New member
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
You'll have to be really careful... neck radiuses are something that manufacturers spend some time and thought on. I'd try and copy the feel of your favorite guitar's neck.
A cheap set of calipers will go a long way in making sure that your job turns out well.
Gun oil is Tru-oil... Tru-oil is actually a wipe on varnish with fillers and all sorts of additives. The actual bulk of the product os polymerized linseed oil.
Boiled Linseed oil is a more pure product to apply on your guitar neck. With BLO, the raw linseed oil has already been polymerized (heat treated) and has been combined with Japan driers so that you can use it to build up a finish.
BLO will take longer to build up a finish than Tru-Oil but the results will feel better to your hands. You basically apply it with a rag or old t-shirt, wait a while and then wipe it off. A thin coating of BLO will take a couple of days to dry... the thicker the coats and the higher the humidity, the longer the coat will take to dry... sometimes as long as a week. BLO is a light finish and won't protect against much wear and tear, sweat and grime. You can always finish with a few coats of of Tru-Oil to provide a harder and more resistive finish. And if you're in a hurry or have corrosive sweat, planning on doing a lot of gigging with the guitar or have kids that like to touch your guitars with their dirty hands... just use the Tru-Oil because it is much more durable.
You'll have to be really careful... neck radiuses are something that manufacturers spend some time and thought on. I'd try and copy the feel of your favorite guitar's neck.
A cheap set of calipers will go a long way in making sure that your job turns out well.
Gun oil is Tru-oil... Tru-oil is actually a wipe on varnish with fillers and all sorts of additives. The actual bulk of the product os polymerized linseed oil.
Boiled Linseed oil is a more pure product to apply on your guitar neck. With BLO, the raw linseed oil has already been polymerized (heat treated) and has been combined with Japan driers so that you can use it to build up a finish.
BLO will take longer to build up a finish than Tru-Oil but the results will feel better to your hands. You basically apply it with a rag or old t-shirt, wait a while and then wipe it off. A thin coating of BLO will take a couple of days to dry... the thicker the coats and the higher the humidity, the longer the coat will take to dry... sometimes as long as a week. BLO is a light finish and won't protect against much wear and tear, sweat and grime. You can always finish with a few coats of of Tru-Oil to provide a harder and more resistive finish. And if you're in a hurry or have corrosive sweat, planning on doing a lot of gigging with the guitar or have kids that like to touch your guitars with their dirty hands... just use the Tru-Oil because it is much more durable.
TheLivingDead
Dawn Of The Shred
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
Not worth it dude. I wouldn't do it.
A cheapo guitar maybe... A nice Charvel? Hellllllll no.
Not worth it dude. I wouldn't do it.
A cheapo guitar maybe... A nice Charvel? Hellllllll no.
uOpt
Something Cool
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
It's very difficult to do that evenly.
While it sounds like a cool concept to just get into a playing position and have the fretting hand do the sandpaper thing you will end up taking off much more wood in the middle and leave nut and heel mostly alone.
It's very difficult to do that evenly.
While it sounds like a cool concept to just get into a playing position and have the fretting hand do the sandpaper thing you will end up taking off much more wood in the middle and leave nut and heel mostly alone.
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
Hmm.. Yes, it has a skunk stripe.. Zen said try to copy my fav guitar..Thats whats funny. My fav guitar is supposed to have the same neck. They are both Japanese made Pro mod charvels.. My white charvel has a perfect neck.. compound radius of course, but its alot thinner than the black one. And my USA Charvel falls right in between them. ? I figured they should all be the same, (at least the 2 pro mods) So its flipping my lid that they all vary. But the black one is def alot thicker. I prolly wont try to sand this one for fear of messing it up. thanks for the info
Hmm.. Yes, it has a skunk stripe.. Zen said try to copy my fav guitar..Thats whats funny. My fav guitar is supposed to have the same neck. They are both Japanese made Pro mod charvels.. My white charvel has a perfect neck.. compound radius of course, but its alot thinner than the black one. And my USA Charvel falls right in between them. ? I figured they should all be the same, (at least the 2 pro mods) So its flipping my lid that they all vary. But the black one is def alot thicker. I prolly wont try to sand this one for fear of messing it up. thanks for the info
King IzzO)))
Ultimate Kitten Puncher
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
Find another Charvel neck and switch 'em out, sell the fatter one to me for cheap, haha.
Find another Charvel neck and switch 'em out, sell the fatter one to me for cheap, haha.
Re: Whats involved with sanding a neck?
LOL!! thats the biggest problem.. Everyone harvests the necks off of them. You can buy bodys and fully loaded bodys all day long on ebay, but no necks.
LOL!! thats the biggest problem.. Everyone harvests the necks off of them. You can buy bodys and fully loaded bodys all day long on ebay, but no necks.
