Which pot?????
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STRATDELUXER97
Stratoblaster Tone Meister
Re: Which pot?????
LP....Why the change from 500k to 250k in your LP?
LP....Why the change from 500k to 250k in your LP?
STRATDELUXER97
Stratoblaster Tone Meister
Re: Which pot?????
Do the volume pot...Putting a 500k resistor across your 500k will give you 250k,but you might not like the taper? I Like using the correct value pot from the get go...
John
Do the volume pot...Putting a 500k resistor across your 500k will give you 250k,but you might not like the taper? I Like using the correct value pot from the get go...
John
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: Which pot?????
Kent; thats pretty cool . . . and informative.
Do you have software that develops that chart, are did you just draw it from calculations?
My original comment about, "leaving the volume on 10", comes from a parallel volume control experiment that I did in the early days of the forum. For some reason, when I did the parallel resistor trick, as I turned the volume from 10 to around 7 or 8, the volume actually went up. Then as I continued to zero, it came back down. I had this weird peak at 7 or 8.
Unfortunately, I needed to get the guitar together, and have never really investigated farther, why that happened. :smack:
Kent; thats pretty cool . . . and informative.
Do you have software that develops that chart, are did you just draw it from calculations?
My original comment about, "leaving the volume on 10", comes from a parallel volume control experiment that I did in the early days of the forum. For some reason, when I did the parallel resistor trick, as I turned the volume from 10 to around 7 or 8, the volume actually went up. Then as I continued to zero, it came back down. I had this weird peak at 7 or 8.
Unfortunately, I needed to get the guitar together, and have never really investigated farther, why that happened. :smack:
Re: Which pot?????
That was just done from an EE program based off of a pup model ( I guessed at the dist.cap. of the pup), I chose a sine sweep and did a fixed dB voltage probe trnasferred to graph function. It doesn't have a o scope function though. It mention this, because it doesn't matter here; but it still erks me.
To answer your question more fully though, yes I've done the math, and unless I'm in a hurry, I try to figure the math first, then check it to verify with the program. Why? It is actually is more work to *guess* at the values and keep manually changing them back and forth. I've got about three different programs, but only really use one. Unless you are going to be laying out entire amp schematics a lot of the other features you don't need.
And there is quite a bit of Pspice delving to use some of the higher functions ... I don't do Pspice programming, so I avoid node commands and such like the plague ... :saeek:
Sad thing is those graphs look great, but transfer to emf and paint files crappy, manily due to the resizing crap. I also like it, beacuse when I print out schematics and graphs, my copyright, date, design number etc. all appear at the bottom automatically ... :cool3: Not seen here of course, (and I did say this was simplified) as I just wanted to show the volume differences.
Don't know what to say to that, sounds a bit odd. I've notice rather interesting effects using variable load volume controls with pups of different DCR/Z ... That gets a bit odd.
You'll also note that it shows that the two section commercial approximation of an audio taper pot, what is sold as audio taper, not a true log taper ... notice how the traces don't fall exactly evenly spaced according to the knobs position relative to the dB output level.
ArtieToo said:
That was just done from an EE program based off of a pup model ( I guessed at the dist.cap. of the pup), I chose a sine sweep and did a fixed dB voltage probe trnasferred to graph function. It doesn't have a o scope function though. It mention this, because it doesn't matter here; but it still erks me.
To answer your question more fully though, yes I've done the math, and unless I'm in a hurry, I try to figure the math first, then check it to verify with the program. Why? It is actually is more work to *guess* at the values and keep manually changing them back and forth. I've got about three different programs, but only really use one. Unless you are going to be laying out entire amp schematics a lot of the other features you don't need.
And there is quite a bit of Pspice delving to use some of the higher functions ... I don't do Pspice programming, so I avoid node commands and such like the plague ... :saeek:
Sad thing is those graphs look great, but transfer to emf and paint files crappy, manily due to the resizing crap. I also like it, beacuse when I print out schematics and graphs, my copyright, date, design number etc. all appear at the bottom automatically ... :cool3: Not seen here of course, (and I did say this was simplified) as I just wanted to show the volume differences.
Don't know what to say to that, sounds a bit odd. I've notice rather interesting effects using variable load volume controls with pups of different DCR/Z ... That gets a bit odd.
You'll also note that it shows that the two section commercial approximation of an audio taper pot, what is sold as audio taper, not a true log taper ... notice how the traces don't fall exactly evenly spaced according to the knobs position relative to the dB output level.
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Re: Which pot?????
Wow... lots of information. Here's something simpler that will let you use your ears more than theory, although the theory does make sense once you hear the difference.
You can simulate the sound of replacing your pots by unscrewing the end of your guitar cable and bridging a resistor across the the connection there. This way you don't have to solder or even remove the backplate. You can then tape it there and play away to get a idea for what the end result will be. You could even record it before you install the resistor and then afterwards to get a good comparison. If you like it, I would recommend switching out the pots. I tried to install the resistors myself messed it up, but I am a beginning solderer...so I had a pro install 250k pots.
You can get more info on the whole thing here: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/potm.htm
Wow... lots of information. Here's something simpler that will let you use your ears more than theory, although the theory does make sense once you hear the difference.
You can simulate the sound of replacing your pots by unscrewing the end of your guitar cable and bridging a resistor across the the connection there. This way you don't have to solder or even remove the backplate. You can then tape it there and play away to get a idea for what the end result will be. You could even record it before you install the resistor and then afterwards to get a good comparison. If you like it, I would recommend switching out the pots. I tried to install the resistors myself messed it up, but I am a beginning solderer...so I had a pro install 250k pots.
You can get more info on the whole thing here: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/potm.htm
Re: Which pot?????
I hardly think a plotted frequency graph counts as mere theory ... Plus, you have to load it from the pup side, not the output side, it doesn't quite give the same result, this may be okay, but better off to do it right the first time.
I hardly think a plotted frequency graph counts as mere theory ... Plus, you have to load it from the pup side, not the output side, it doesn't quite give the same result, this may be okay, but better off to do it right the first time.
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Re: Which pot?????
Oh course, equipment permitting, you can always reach over to an EQ and alter the tone from the effected area (shown on the graph) to mimmic to tone and then switch back and forth between them ...
mjsever said:Good point regarding where to put the resistor. However, I personally find it hard to imagine in my head how a graph sounds...
Oh course, equipment permitting, you can always reach over to an EQ and alter the tone from the effected area (shown on the graph) to mimmic to tone and then switch back and forth between them ...
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