Who makes true 24 fret replacement necks for imports?

[Top-L]

Warmoth only has 22 fret with an extension board.

I have an old beat import with a warped neck. If I can get a decent price neck, might as well put it back in service.

 

[jeremy]

that could be tricky since there wasnt as much consistency in heal shape/size as with a 21/22 fret strat type neck

 

[Top-L]

I found a few on Amazon that might work. Sadly they don't give you all the specs, you just have to order and pray.

This one might work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BSF9VPHV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3KW7MFFNW7D3R&psc=1

Unfortunately, looks like a 12" radius.

 

[jeremy]

good luck! at least since it isnt drilled you can probably make it work as, assuming 25.5 is the right scale length for what you have now

 

[GuitarDoc]

Could be 12" or 14" radius, can't tell for sure.

The main problem you may have is that it is designed for a guitar made for a 24 fret neck, where the neck pocket has been routed deeper toward the butt end of the body...note that the fretboard doesn't extend beyond the neck (at the heal) any more than a 22 fret neck does. That means that the distance from bridge to nut is going to be much longer, and if the saddles on your bridge don't have a LOT of forward movement available, you won't be able to intonate it properly (and indeed it will change the scale length of your guitar even if the scale of the neck is the same).

If you don't have enough adjustment available in your saddles/bridge (which you probably don't), you will either have to remount your bridge further forward, grind/file off about 1/2" of the heel of the neck...leaving the fretboard intact, or reroute the neck pocket in your guitar. If it is a 25.5" scale guitar/neck then the distance between the nut and bridge has to be 25.5". You can't just put on a longer neck (even though it may have 25.5" scale frets) and expect it to work.

You need to get a neck that is specifically designed to be a conversion from 22 to 24 fret. You will know if it's a conversion neck because the fretboard will be longer beyond the heel end of the neck.

 

[Top-L]

Could be 12" or 14" radius, can't tell for sure.

The main problem you may have is that it is designed for a guitar made for a 24 fret neck, where the neck pocket has been routed deeper toward the butt end of the body...note that the fretboard doesn't extend beyond the neck (at the heal) any more than a 22 fret neck does. That means that the distance from bridge to nut is going to be much longer, and if the saddles on your bridge don't have a LOT of forward movement available, you won't be able to intonate it properly (and indeed it will change the scale length of your guitar even if the scale of the neck is the same).

If you don't have enough adjustment available in your saddles/bridge (which you probably don't), you will either have to remount your bridge further forward, grind/file off about 1/2" of the heel of the neck...leaving the fretboard intact, or reroute the neck pocket in your guitar. If it is a 25.5" scale guitar/neck then the distance between the nut and bridge has to be 25.5". You can't just put on a longer neck (even though it may have 25.5" scale frets) and expect it to work.

You need to get a neck that is specifically designed to be a conversion from 22 to 24 fret. You will know if it's a conversion neck because the fretboard will be longer beyond the heel end of the neck.

Actually, this is an import 24 fret guitar and it looks like the original neck is constructed the same way. The original neck extends all the way to the 24th fret.

The width 56mm is same as pocket.

My concern is the radius of the neck, and the depth of the neck. It looks about right. I would be happy with 14" radius, but not 12".

 

[Top-L]

Here is checklist of what I believe swapping neck on guitar would entail.

1. Research options, buy neck that fits guitar body.
2. Test fit neck to pocket. Mark position of 24th fret on original neck and make sure new neck can be made to align with this mark. Measure scale to make sure it is identical.
3. Meaure depth of new neck. If it is dimensionally similar, bridge will not need to raised/lowered appreciably. If neck meets criteria keep it, otherwise return.
4. Shape neck (sanding block) so that it fits within pocket.
5. Drill neck screws. Mark and use drill press to drill the holes.
6. Temporary install nut and tuners.
7. Test fit. String up guitar, adjust truss rod and bridge height. Tune up. Set intonation. See if it is withing normal adjustment parameters for action/intonation.
8. Level / crown / dress frets.
9. Install nut. Modify or shim nut slot so that Floyd nut is correct height.
10. Test fit 2. String up again to see that guitar is in good playable condition. Strings are aligned with neck. Good action. Intonation set.
11. Finish neck
12. Reinstall and enjoy.

What I need:

• Drill press (I have been meaning to buy one of these for a while)
• Finishing supplies. (I have an airgun, paper/polishing materials, but need to research what is best satin finish for a maple neck.)

Why?

• The original neck on this guitar has developed a "hink", where most of the relief happens above 12th fret, so in order to have low action, need to chop down the higher frets. The original neck could be salvaged if I was willing to refret, but frankly I don't like how the original neck looks, and believe that replacing the neck is less work that replaining and refretting.