Wiring: Neck Pickup reads with multimeter, but no sound in amp

Waywired

New member
My first post everybody, hope this is correct section. All apologies ahead of time and also thank you ahead of any help. So, I finally decided to get one of those diy guitar kits and having played for a long time put some decent pickups and such in it as opposed to the generic cheap stuff it came with. I should be done, but something with the wiring is off. Basically the neck pickup doesn't do anything. I'll list a bunch of stuff that I already went with multimeter over to check, but basically have a 3 way toggle switch and if I plug in and put switch to bridge the bridge pickup works fine, on neck I get nothing, on middle I have to have the volume turned on both pickups or else nothing registers which for some reason I found a little strange or may just be my lack of knowledge. This is my first time wiring for anyone reading this. One thing, and not sure if relevant but want to leave nothing out, I can plug guitar into my tuner and in any position on the toggle switch I can tune it. Which if neck wasn't working...thought shouldn't get any signal? I'm attaching a couple pics, one of the wiring diagram sent with the pickups which use that single wire shielded cable. The other is the setup (which I find the guitar had a small area for the pots and all). The pots on right are for neck: top right is neck volume and bottom right is neck tone. So, things I already checked and did:


1) Grounding. Everything is grounded. I used multimeter and put ground on jack ground and went through each pot, bridge, strings...got a clean signal from each.

2) Switch. I though at first maybe switch was bad and I had an extra so I did change that out, but situation is the same. I checked and the ground is fine with it, plus checked from hot lead to jack and checked the bridge and neck tab on it and got a signal. (sorry if my names of parts aren't correct).

3) Pickups: Used multimeter and connected to ground and live inner wire (it's those shielded wires where you solder the outer to pot for grounding) Both pickups were reading right around 8.5 k which is in the range for them. When plugged into amp, I did the screwdriver tap test. The bridge pickup I get the "pop" sound when tap it with a screwdriver. The neck however, I get nothing. But I got a reading from the neck pickup of 8.5 k just like the bridge.

4) I understand the shielded cables on the pickups like this can cause shorts if touching things like the caps or other metal spots and have kept them clear of those while testing everything and plugged into my amp.

5) I thought maybe my soldering on neck volume and tone pots may have been bad or a wire, so I went and removed the wires, cleaned everything up, snipped the pickup wire back and did fresh soldering, but still same thing (note: I did clean up the old solder before doing fresh, I may be new, but not lazy :D )

6) Checked between all the little tabs on pots and no solder or random wires are touching or crossing over. I went through and made sure no junk was lying around just to be safe. Not that there was before, but check all the little things.

I'm honestly at a loss as to what could be wrong. My next step would be to bring this to a local pro and have them figure it out, but wanted to try here first. Since been building the whole thing I want to find out what is wrong and why it isn't working correctly. Is it possible I had two switches that are both bad? Or is there some soldering issue? The fact I don't get anything from the neck pickup in the amp, however when I use the multimeter on the pickup it is saying that it is good has me confused although perhaps someone with more experience understands. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated, and thanks once again in advance. The pots are CTS full size 525k pots. The pots are brand new and were reading fine.
 

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Switch looks wrong to me. I don't know what kind of switch that is, but I haven't seen the center/common go to ground on one side before, unless doing some kind of splitting, which is not the case here. The other thing that is odd is it looks like the tones are wired backwards, but I don't think that would cause the stated problem.
 
My first post everybody, hope this is correct section. All apologies ahead of time and also thank you ahead of any help. So, I finally decided to get one of those diy guitar kits and having played for a long time put some decent pickups and such in it as opposed to the generic cheap stuff it came with. I should be done, but something with the wiring is off. Basically the neck pickup doesn't do anything. I'll list a bunch of stuff that I already went with multimeter over to check, but basically have a 3 way toggle switch and if I plug in and put switch to bridge the bridge pickup works fine, on neck I get nothing, on middle I have to have the volume turned on both pickups or else nothing registers which for some reason I found a little strange or may just be my lack of knowledge. This is my first time wiring for anyone reading this. One thing, and not sure if relevant but want to leave nothing out, I can plug guitar into my tuner and in any position on the toggle switch I can tune it. Which if neck wasn't working...thought shouldn't get any signal? I'm attaching a couple pics, one of the wiring diagram sent with the pickups which use that single wire shielded cable. The other is the setup (which I find the guitar had a small area for the pots and all). The pots on right are for neck: top right is neck volume and bottom right is neck tone. So, things I already checked and did:


1) Grounding. Everything is grounded. I used multimeter and put ground on jack ground and went through each pot, bridge, strings...got a clean signal from each.

2) Switch. I though at first maybe switch was bad and I had an extra so I did change that out, but situation is the same. I checked and the ground is fine with it, plus checked from hot lead to jack and checked the bridge and neck tab on it and got a signal. (sorry if my names of parts aren't correct).

3) Pickups: Used multimeter and connected to ground and live inner wire (it's those shielded wires where you solder the outer to pot for grounding) Both pickups were reading right around 8.5 k which is in the range for them. When plugged into amp, I did the screwdriver tap test. The bridge pickup I get the "pop" sound when tap it with a screwdriver. The neck however, I get nothing. But I got a reading from the neck pickup of 8.5 k just like the bridge.

4) I understand the shielded cables on the pickups like this can cause shorts if touching things like the caps or other metal spots and have kept them clear of those while testing everything and plugged into my amp.

5) I thought maybe my soldering on neck volume and tone pots may have been bad or a wire, so I went and removed the wires, cleaned everything up, snipped the pickup wire back and did fresh soldering, but still same thing (note: I did clean up the old solder before doing fresh, I may be new, but not lazy :D )

6) Checked between all the little tabs on pots and no solder or random wires are touching or crossing over. I went through and made sure no junk was lying around just to be safe. Not that there was before, but check all the little things.

I'm honestly at a loss as to what could be wrong. My next step would be to bring this to a local pro and have them figure it out, but wanted to try here first. Since been building the whole thing I want to find out what is wrong and why it isn't working correctly. Is it possible I had two switches that are both bad? Or is there some soldering issue? The fact I don't get anything from the neck pickup in the amp, however when I use the multimeter on the pickup it is saying that it is good has me confused although perhaps someone with more experience understands. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated, and thanks once again in advance. The pots are CTS full size 525k pots. The pots are brand new and were reading fine.

Hi,

I've not yet really checked the pic but...

Did you obtain the mentioned DCR readings from the output jack of the guitar?

If your PU's are 8.5k ones paired to actual 525k pots, they should read around 8.23k separately and 4.11k in center (middle) position, when all pots are set on 10/10 (from the output jack of the guitar).

If direct resistance readings are fine in such cases, the only explanation coming to my mind would be a non charged magnet in the neck pickup... Do its twelve poles attract your screwdriver?
 
Post scriptum...

on neck I get nothing, on middle I have to have the volume turned on both pickups or else nothing registers which for some reason I found a little strange or may just be my lack of knowledge

If you use a multimeter set to read 0 to 20k, for example, it's logical to obtain no DCR with a volume pot lowered for one or both or the pickups.

Reason: when you lower a volume control, you add a part of the pot resistance (in series) to the DCR of the pickup. With a 8.5k pickup, a linear pot of 525k set half way would bump the resistance @ 271k, itself in parallel with 262.5k to ground (remaining resistance to ground from the volume pot) and 525k (from the tone pot set full up). All these values should result in a reading of approximatively 106k from the output jack... and the DCR should rise to a maximal value of 176k somewhere on the volume pot curve (when the pot is set to give (525k+8.5k) / 2 from pickup to hot and from hot to ground) .

So, if you want to check that your 525k volume pots work fine, set your DMM to read several hundreds of kOhm and watch if the resistance rises from 8.3k to +/-176k before to decrease, while your progressively turn off the volume from 10 to 0/10...
 
Switch looks wrong to me. I don't know what kind of switch that is, but I haven't seen the center/common go to ground on one side before, unless doing some kind of splitting, which is not the case here. The other thing that is odd is it looks like the tones are wired backwards, but I don't think that would cause the stated problem.

That's a common "box" switch as used in many import guitars. It's not actually the center terminal that's grounded. It's the case. The compression in the photo just makes it look that way.
 
Hi,

I've not yet really checked the pic but...

Did you obtain the mentioned DCR readings from the output jack of the guitar?

If your PU's are 8.5k ones paired to actual 525k pots, they should read around 8.23k separately and 4.11k in center (middle) position, when all pots are set on 10/10 (from the output jack of the guitar).

If direct resistance readings are fine in such cases, the only explanation coming to my mind would be a non charged magnet in the neck pickup... Do its twelve poles attract your screwdriver?

I had originally checked the pickups by putting ground on the outer shielding and other end to hot inner wire. But, went with output jack like you mentioned. (I'm not most experienced with the meter) But with ground on the output jack, I'm getting 8.37 k on the bridge and the neck is reading 8.10 k I was touching other to that lead on each pickup when measured. When switch was set in bridge was getting 8.5 k on the bridge pickup. In neck position, was getting the same 8.1/8.09k on neck. And on middle got the same readings first mentioned. All pots on 10/10. Am I using the meter wrong?

I checked the pickup with the screw driver and it is pulling to it with each pole. So definitely magnetized.

I also reworked some of soldering on volume pot for neck on lug where the pickup is connected (just in case I had bad solder there) but nothing changed.
 
Post scriptum...



If you use a multimeter set to read 0 to 20k, for example, it's logical to obtain no DCR with a volume pot lowered for one or both or the pickups.

Reason: when you lower a volume control, you add a part of the pot resistance (in series) to the DCR of the pickup. With a 8.5k pickup, a linear pot of 525k set half way would bump the resistance @ 271k, itself in parallel with 262.5k to ground (remaining resistance to ground from the volume pot) and 525k (from the tone pot set full up). All these values should result in a reading of approximatively 106k from the output jack... and the DCR should rise to a maximal value of 176k somewhere on the volume pot curve (when the pot is set to give (525k+8.5k) / 2 from pickup to hot and from hot to ground) .

So, if you want to check that your 525k volume pots work fine, set your DMM to read several hundreds of kOhm and watch if the resistance rises from 8.3k to +/-176k before to decrease, while your progressively turn off the volume from 10 to 0/10...

Sorry to sound like a noob, but would I need to disconnect the wiring on the pots to test them? I know when have just the pot by itself can put either end of the meter on the ground and other lug on a pot to get a reading. But I did have it only set at 20k, can definitely bump up to test the pots.
 
Sorry to sound like a noob, but would I need to disconnect the wiring on the pots to test them? I know when have just the pot by itself can put either end of the meter on the ground and other lug on a pot to get a reading. But I did have it only set at 20k, can definitely bump up to test the pots.

Hi again,

No reasons to be sorry. We are all in the same situation when we face a problem. :-)

Now, it would be a good idea to checks the components separately. A common test is to wire each pickup directly to the output jack, without pots. doing this with the neck pickup at least would allow to know if it works.
 
I had originally checked the pickups by putting ground on the outer shielding and other end to hot inner wire. But, went with output jack like you mentioned. (I'm not most experienced with the meter) But with ground on the output jack, I'm getting 8.37 k on the bridge and the neck is reading 8.10 k I was touching other to that lead on each pickup when measured. When switch was set in bridge was getting 8.5 k on the bridge pickup. In neck position, was getting the same 8.1/8.09k on neck. And on middle got the same readings first mentioned. All pots on 10/10. Am I using the meter wrong?

I checked the pickup with the screw driver and it is pulling to it with each pole. So definitely magnetized.

I also reworked some of soldering on volume pot for neck on lug where the pickup is connected (just in case I had bad solder there) but nothing changed.

I've not really watched the vid below but it should answer to your questions about the use of a DMM (what I was reffering to appears to be explained @ 1:01). :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMaRs1jGQPg
 
I've not really watched the vid below but it should answer to your questions about the use of a DMM (what I was reffering to appears to be explained @ 1:01). :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMaRs1jGQPg

I actually was looking around about checking the pots without taking them out. And came across thread somewhere (not here) and person responding to someone asking about checking his pots while still in his les paul, said plug a cable (for volume pot) into guitar jack. Set meter to 200 k and put the meter's probes on the other end of guitar cable on the hot and ground (respectively) go through each position on switch, and slide the ground probe down length of guitar cable jack (like an inch or so) and pay attention to what meter reads. Should give a large number for your pot signal (which would have to multiply to get actual number and such). Well, anyway, wouldn't you know my bridge position was getting top reading of 147k (was a little sloppy with trying to keep steady on readings, but I got readings lol). Middle switch got a decent result, but when I switched to neck?? Nothing. Just OL for old overload. Checked a bunch of times just to make sure wasn't messing something up, and rechecked. Same results. So, to make long story short it looks like I need to go get a new pot. Should I go ahead and change the neck tone pot as well?
I feel kind of relieved that I have something solid to work on now.
 
I'd start with the pots and jack plugs unscrewed from the guitar body and floating outside but not desoldered. It's not that rare to see things stopping to work once in a guitar, for various reasons (pressure on a component creating a short-cut or a faultly contact, unseen ultra-thin wire touching a conductive material, and so on).

If your wiring harness is still not working when floating in the void with components clearly separate from each others, then you'll have to check each component step by step...
 
I'd start with the pots and jack plugs unscrewed from the guitar body and floating outside but not desoldered. It's not that rare to see things stopping to work once in a guitar, for various reasons (pressure on a component creating a short-cut or a faultly contact, unseen ultra-thin wire touching a conductive material, and so on).

If your wiring harness is still not working when floating in the void with components clearly separate from each others, then you'll have to check each component step by step...

Very good call. I unscrewed the pots from body and got them up out of there. There was a little piece of metal (looked like a piece of solder perhaps) and something like a small bit of wire. While floating I put a cable in the jack and tested each of the parts of switch. This time in neck position, I did get a good reading. I plugged into the amp, but nothing happened. While I had the pots up and out (but not desoldered) I checked on the tabs underneath with the meter while that was exposed. I got a reading on the bridge volume, bridge tone, neck volume, but nothing on the neck tone however. I double checked to make sure it wasn't some fluke. But, would the neck tone pot being out cause no volume? I can see just no tone or loss of signal strength, but not any sound.
 
Hi,

Absolutely speaking, a short on a tone circuit can permanently send the signal to ground, giving no output.

But how you've wired your tone caps should prevent this. And if it was the case, you wouldn't obtain any DCR reading from the neck PU volume....

So, I'd bet for an intermittent short cut or faultly contact somewhere in the signal path. it might even be due to the coaxial wire coming from the neck pickup itself (if the braided shield of this coaxial cable is not firmly soldered to the baseplate of the pickup, its output hot wire coming from a coil might touch the baseplate of the pickup when its coaxial cable is pulled or twisted from the cavity).

Check if the DCR can still (and permanently) be read on the neck PU volume while manipulating the coaxial wire coming from the neck pickup.

Also: be sure that ANY "hot" wire can't touch ANY grounded part. To my bad old eyes and on my tiny screen, your pic seems to show some bits of metal coming from the "hot" lugs and dangerously close to the metal housing of your pots.
 
Hi,

Absolutely speaking, a short on a tone circuit can permanently send the signal to ground, giving no output.

But how you've wired your tone caps should prevent this. And if it was the case, you wouldn't obtain any DCR reading from the neck PU volume....

So, I'd bet for an intermittent short cut or faultly contact somewhere in the signal path. it might even be due to the coaxial wire coming from the neck pickup itself (if the braided shield of this coaxial cable is not firmly soldered to the baseplate of the pickup, its output hot wire coming from a coil might touch the baseplate of the pickup when its coaxial cable is pulled or twisted from the cavity).

Check if the DCR can still (and permanently) be read on the neck PU volume while manipulating the coaxial wire coming from the neck pickup.

Also: be sure that ANY "hot" wire can't touch ANY grounded part. To my bad old eyes and on my tiny screen, your pic seems to show some bits of metal coming from the "hot" lugs and dangerously close to the metal housing of your pots.

I plugged the cable back into the jack while all the pots are floating, put the meter on the end of the cable and started moving the neck pickup shielded cable around some and the readings did jump around some and at some points just read OL.

On the neck volume pot, on the hot lug I checked and there is some solder that ran down and while not touching the pot, it is very close. So that is a messy mistake on my part.

Also the way this kit came, it has the pickup wires coming right out next to the box switch. Even though I have the casing on the box switch grounded, would one of those braided wires touching it cause problems? And if so, can I put tape or something on the metal case of the switch to block?
 

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You can certainly put some tape around the switch to avoid any contact between its housing and any "hot" wire... And reflow the solder on the "hot" lug of your volume pot if it's too close to the outer housing of this pot.
 
You can certainly put some tape around the switch to avoid any contact between its housing and any "hot" wire... And reflow the solder on the "hot" lug of your volume pot if it's too close to the outer housing of this pot.

Thank you. I will go and do that. I did go ahead and order a couple new pots, going to at least change out the neck tone. But going to try get the neck pickup out and take a look at that and see if anything bumping there. Is there anything in particular like you mentioned earlier if I pull the pickup out to look, that I should look for?
 
Thank you. I will go and do that. I did go ahead and order a couple new pots, going to at least change out the neck tone. But going to try get the neck pickup out and take a look at that and see if anything bumping there. Is there anything in particular like you mentioned earlier if I pull the pickup out to look, that I should look for?

You're welcome.

Can I insist on the interest of a "step by step" process?

Personally, I'd start by connecting the neck pickup alone without pots, directly to the output jack, in order to check if it works (step 1).

Then, I'd reconnect this pickup to a volume pot (step 2). Then I'd add the tone pot (step 3). Then I'd wire the whole to the selector switch (step 4).

Then I'd put back the harness in the guitar (step 5).

At each step, I'd check the DCR obtained from the terminal wire.

If you don't want to solder/desolder repetitively, just use alligator clips: https://www.homesciencetools.com/pro...-leads-2-pack/

Or hold/press the wire ends (twisted together) between your fingers, simply. Your body is resistive but not enough to be a problem when testing continuity between wires...

Regarding the neck PU: more later if necessary. In the meantime, you can check how a typical humbucker is built in various websites like this one: https://www.robchapman.tv/forum/thre...nductor.28147/

I wish a merry Xmas to you and to any reader...
 
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You're welcome.

Can I insist on the interest of a "step by step" process?

Personally, I'd start by connecting the neck pickup alone without pots, directly to the output jack, in order to check if it works (step 1).

Then, I'd reconnect this pickup to a volume pot (step 2). Then I'd add the tone pot (step 3). Then I'd wire the whole to the selector switch (step 4).

Then I'd put back the harness in the guitar (step 5).

At each step, I'd check the DCR obtained from the terminal wire.

If you don't want to solder/desolder repetitively, just use alligator clips: https://www.homesciencetools.com/pro...-leads-2-pack/

Or hold/press the wire ends (twisted together) between your fingers, simply. Your body is resistive but not enough to be a problem when testing continuity between wires...

Regarding the neck PU: more later if necessary. In the meantime, you can check how a typical humbucker is built in various websites like this one: https://www.robchapman.tv/forum/thre...nductor.28147/

I wish a merry Xmas to you and to any reader...

Merry Xmas to you as well!
And thank you for the suggestion. I will definitely go along with that route of the step by step. I can grab some alligator clips, that would be very handy. Great advice all around. :)
 
You're welcome.

Can I insist on the interest of a "step by step" process?

Personally, I'd start by connecting the neck pickup alone without pots, directly to the output jack, in order to check if it works (step 1).

Then, I'd reconnect this pickup to a volume pot (step 2). Then I'd add the tone pot (step 3). Then I'd wire the whole to the selector switch (step 4).

Then I'd put back the harness in the guitar (step 5).

At each step, I'd check the DCR obtained from the terminal wire.

If you don't want to solder/desolder repetitively, just use alligator clips: https://www.homesciencetools.com/pro...-leads-2-pack/

Or hold/press the wire ends (twisted together) between your fingers, simply. Your body is resistive but not enough to be a problem when testing continuity between wires...

Regarding the neck PU: more later if necessary. In the meantime, you can check how a typical humbucker is built in various websites like this one: https://www.robchapman.tv/forum/thre...nductor.28147/

I wish a merry Xmas to you and to any reader...

Just wanted to add and let you know, I got the replacement pots in today and did as you suggested going step by step and checking everything along the way to make sure everything was reading right and such . And well, everything works! Both neck and bridge pickups are working good. The volume and tone work correctly. I did put a little tape around some parts just to be safe. But everything in good condition now. Thank you so much for all the help and thank you to everyone else who helped as well. :) I really appreciate it.
 
Just wanted to add and let you know, I got the replacement pots in today and did as you suggested going step by step and checking everything along the way to make sure everything was reading right and such . And well, everything works! Both neck and bridge pickups are working good. The volume and tone work correctly. I did put a little tape around some parts just to be safe. But everything in good condition now. Thank you so much for all the help and thank you to everyone else who helped as well. :) I really appreciate it.

Great!
Thx for the news. Glad to know you're happy. Merrry Xmas too late & happy new year by advance!
 
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