Wiring single conductor to liberator

nattydread814

New member
I just got a Seymour Duncan SH-1n pickup which is single conductor. I plan on installing it into a liberator and I'm aware that the hot connects like the black wire but I am wondering if I ground the pickup to the liberator or the neck volume pot. Any help please?
 
Re: Wiring single conductor to liberator

Did anyone find the solution for this?
I'm also interested in using a single conductor pickup with a liberator.
I have a 4-cond. JB in the bridge, but I want to put an APH-2 in the neck, but the APH-2 is a single conductor wire pickup.

My guess is to use the pickups black wire in the Liberators terminal, and to solder the shielding wire to the ground on the liberators block?

If anyone has an idea how to do this, please help!
Or share the schematics.

Thanks!
 
Re: Wiring single conductor to liberator

Note: I do not own the Liberator system, but I would say that if you have to solder the pickup ground to the back of a pot it defeats the purpose of the Liberator because you can't swap pickups easily anymore. I would assume all pickup connections should go into the Liberator system only.

It's worth noting that Green/Bare normally go to ground, yet Liberator diagrams show them soldered together - keeping everything within the Liberator system.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=LB1_1v1t_LBVOL
 
Re: Wiring single conductor to liberator

Hi,
Nobody's arguing with the fact that it defeats the purpose of the liberator to solder pickups on the liberator itself.
I complete agree with you...
However there are some of us who have a 4 cond. bridge pickup and would like a different neck pickup, and therefor we need to solder to the liberator if they are a single conductor wire pickup.

So, if anyone who has done this (combining a 4 conductor pickup and a single cond. pickup with liberator) please help us...
 
Re: Wiring single conductor to liberator

I would assume all pickup connections should go into the Liberator system only.

Exactly.

beaubrummels said:
It's worth noting that Green/Bare normally go to ground, yet Liberator diagrams show them soldered together - keeping everything within the Liberator system.

That diagram is confusing because it has a couple of significant mistakes, (typo's), in it. The Liberator system simply provides 10 terminals that have wires underneath them. It doesn't actually matter what terminal/color/wire you use for what. Logic would dictate that, (if using Duncans), that you wire up the Liberator wires in a conventional Duncan wiring scheme.

The two mistakes are:

1. The ground wire from the Liberator/3-way switch is missing. (They're grounded to each other but not to actual ground.) There needs to be one more ground wire added that connects the liberator to the output jack sleeve.

2. While it is correct to solder the green and bare wires together, (on the Liberator, not the pups), those still need to be connected to ground. Either the output jack sleeve or the back of the pot.

Now, having done that, the 4 center terminals become "ground". Connect whichever wire of your single-coil is ground to any one of those. Connect the hot wire to whichever terminal you assign to the "hot" function. Again, any terminal, any color. One of the two end black terminals would probably be the most logical choice.

Make sense? :)

Artie

Edit: #2 may not be a mistake. I'm thinking that maybe the bare wires are grounded internally in the Liberator. I'm going to order one tonight so I know for sure.
 
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Re: Wiring single conductor to liberator

Ok . . . #2 is not a mistake. I got my Liberator. Those two gray wires are connected internally to ground. So, in a normal 2-HB'er configuration, you can solder the two greens and two grays together and all is good. (Just as the diagram shows.)

My apologies to Duncan tech for questioning this before I had one in my hand. :smash:
 
Re: Wiring single conductor to liberator

Hah! Yes grey is already ground and you can decide how to parse that around. You can use a grey to the back of a tone pot(s) or tie green to it and tape it off, lots of options.

But to the original poster, and in case this is searched later, the short answer is yes take the single conductor shield, break some of it free, and just screw it into the grey terminal (either of the middle two)
 
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