Wretched POS hardware....

ICTGoober

ICTGoober

New member
I have one of those cheap Chinese headless guitars - copy of a fan fretted Strandberg. The trem system is absolute crap. Observe....

https://imgur.com/DuRSjev
https://imgur.com/dbiIaJU
https://imgur.com/eGeFvjC
https://imgur.com/YV0Hs2v
https://imgur.com/zLFYgOJ

That long steel screw goes through the aluminum body of what I call the receiver - the trem mounts to it, balanced on 2 fulcrum points by the spring. The long steel screw allows the travel and tension of the trem. Problem? The aluminum threads in the receiver stripped out because of the tension. How to fix that?

The trem didn't work that well anyway, so I think I will drill holes through the holes cast in the trem for the trem bars, and screw them directly into the body. I'll need to put a spacer underneath to maintain the desired position.

Anyone have questions or solutions more elegant than mine?
 
Wretched indeed.

I wonder if an appropriately sized (steel) captive nut with the right thread would work.

On a similar principle, having a nut with washers at the end to act as a stop for the spring might also do the trick, kinda like the Red Special's trem (other good hi-res pics at theredspecial.com).
20131008_125936.jpg
 
Last edited:
ICTGoober said:
I have one of those cheap Chinese headless guitars - copy of a fan fretted Strandberg. The trem system is absolute crap. Observe....

https://imgur.com/DuRSjev
https://imgur.com/dbiIaJU
https://imgur.com/eGeFvjC
https://imgur.com/YV0Hs2v
https://imgur.com/zLFYgOJ

That long steel screw goes through the aluminum body of what I call the receiver - the trem mounts to it, balanced on 2 fulcrum points by the spring. The long steel screw allows the travel and tension of the trem. Problem? The aluminum threads in the receiver stripped out because of the tension. How to fix that?

The trem didn't work that well anyway, so I think I will drill holes through the holes cast in the trem for the trem bars, and screw them directly into the body. I'll need to put a spacer underneath to maintain the desired position.

Anyone have questions or solutions more elegant than mine?
Click to expand...

you can put a steel insert
Riv Nut is the brand

I have installed them on plastic and and other enclosures

I replaced the License plate mounts and the truck box mounts with the 1/4 -20 version

https://www.amazon.com/Snug-Fastener...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

find the size of the bolt
over size the hole to fit the insert

you can use the installation tool or steel bolt and nut
put the bolt in backwards with the nut on the flanged side of the insert and tighten
the insert will deform to wedge in hole

just enough to seat it in the hole

here is an assortment

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MCVCWY...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
 
Last edited:
Ehdwuld - why in the hell would I buy an identical POS?

Has anyone figured out by looking at the pictures yet that the tapered part goes into the recess in the trem? Picture 4.

It's just a poor design, and then manufactured poorly. Modding it with an insert is an idea I must ponder. I think ACE has those nuts.
 
Last edited:
if you hork it up with the insert

you can get another

dang you are a belligerent soul

good luck let me know if you need any help
 
Checked out ACE, decided not to buy those rivnuts. I measured the 2 trem bar holes for depth, and they both lack about 3/32" of going through the entire trem tuning assembly. Easy enough to drill them out for screws slightly smaller than the trem bar, install 2 wooden spacers under the rear of the assembly, and screw it down onto the 2 fulcrum points and the two blocks. It will be solid, rigid, and completely reversible in the future should I (or someone else) decide to repair the stripped hole where the tension adjustment goes. Will work on that this afternoon if I can (Dad is sick in bed since Wednesday evening), and will take pix to illustrate my mod.

Took the stock pickups out for now (they sounded pretty good - Artec units, I think). Might put in some Bill Lawrence L500's for a clean, beefy tone that can be tapped, flipped out of phase, or run both units in series for a boost in volume and bass response. The guitar itself is quite light, and playable after I leveled the frets awhile back. Got used to the fanned frets immediately.
 
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ehdwuld said:
Heres a different one that might fit

Its the one the use on the new EART

US $51.07 47%OFF | Guitar Tremolo Bridge Tailpiece Roller Saddle Headless Guitar Parts Accessories
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mM3VULB

Look at this one

US $63.50 16%OFF | 6 String Roller saddle Tremolo Bridge Tailpiece for Headless Guitar Replacement
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP1FAZL

i like this one

US $108.00 | ALP 6 String Headless Travel Electric Guitar Bridge W-1016
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMCY9Mz
Click to expand...

These look like great suggestions, provided they fit the weird cavity.
 
I'll play it like this for awhile. No big hurry. Thanks for your suggestions.. Yes, the last one might not fit without removing more wood.
 
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