Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

[Exemonium]

OK, so I originally posted about trying to do some coil splitting, and it was mentioned that maybe I should try the JP wiring...after I thought about it, I said WHY NOT?! Then the option is there for me to try a couple new tones if I want, and if not. It should just be normal. I'll be doing this on an Epiphone with the stock switch.

Problems:
1: I've not used push/pulls, so that's a tad confusing so far.
2: I'm not sure which diagram is best. I can't read schematics, so Gibson's doesn't help. Which leaves ...

and of course,

I've been readin results, watching vids, etc. Seems a lot of people have problems when doing this. I'd love for that not to happen hehe
BUT (there's always a but) I've also read that most JP wirings use the slug of the neck, and adjustable of the bridge. I'd love to swap that! 1 think I know I want for certain is the outer coil at neck when coil splitting. And thanks to Funkfingers, I was reminded that I should really use the slug from the bridge, which I agree.

Do these diagrams do that(neck coil/bridge slug coil)? Also do we know if these work well with an Epi?

I'm using a SD jazz neck and Distortion in bridge if that helps at all

Many thanks in advance

 

[Exemonium]

Re: Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

Also, It appears the Irongear one is using jumpers whereas the others don't seem to be. Unless it's implied and I just don't know to do that.

 

[MojoMonster]

Re: Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

After having wired up one JP with 4 x push/pulls(in a 335-style, no less) and then a set of Triple Shots with 2 x push/pulls, I absolutely recommend you buy the Triple Shots.
Way, way less difficult to install.
Try them out and if you absolutely need the OOP and Series/Parallel push/pulls, it's much easier to wire up and install just the two push/pulls.

All of those are accurate, just drawn differently.
For SD pups, the red/white is the same as green/white Iron Gear and north finish/south finish for GE.
SD Black is red for Iron Gear and north start for GE.
SD green is black for Iron Gear and south start for GE.

The wiring to the pots themselves is also considered "modern with dependent volumes". There are other ways to wire a 2V 2T guitar.
One that I like is the "50's with independent volumes" wiring.

MM

 

[Exemonium]

Re: Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

The wiring to the pots themselves is also considered "modern with dependent volumes". There are other ways to wire a 2V 2T guitar.
One that I like is the "50's with independent volumes" wiring.

MM

I'm not sure what you mean here. Also, ive been reading they dont match size-wise.

 

[MojoMonster]

Re: Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

I'm not sure what you mean here.

Originally Les Pauls were wired differently.
We now call that "50's" wiring and current production "modern" wiring.
It's a simple swap between lugs.

All 2 volume, 2 tone guitars can be wired volume dependent or independent.
Dependent meaning that when both pickups are selected and you turn the volume all of the way down on one pickup, the entire guitar goes silent.
Independent means, that only the selected pickup goes silent.

Also, ive been reading they dont match size-wise.

Not sure what you're referring to here. The pot sizes?

MM

 

[Exemonium]

Re: Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

ahhh so the modern with dependent is when it kills sound if bridge vol is on, neck vol is off and you select the middle? Because that I like. That whole toggle kill thing.

And size-wise I meant the rings. I've read a few times that they seem to be slightly off from the original position. This is for an sg and the pickguard is mighty specific. I mean the original rings were flush against the guard.

Though it seems maybe the triple shots along with the 2 push/pulls for OOP, and series/parallel give even more options than the JP wiring, and is easier to do with less error.
How would it work with the independent series/parallel on the rings mixed with the push/pull one?

 

[MojoMonster]

Re: Yet another JP wiring question, hooray!

ahhh so the modern with dependent is when it kills sound if bridge vol is on, neck vol is off and you select the middle? Because that I like. That whole toggle kill thing.

Correct. Many people like the dependent volumes just for that "kill switch" effect.
My understanding is that the "modern" wiring changes the resonant frequency of the pups... the 50's wiring seems to do much of what a treble bleed mod does... so it's a personal thing.

And size-wise I meant the rings. I've read a few times that they seem to be slightly off from the original position. This is for an sg and the pickguard is mighty specific. I mean the original rings were flush against the guard.

Ah, gotcha.
I put a pair onto a Les Paul, so the only issue I had was to widen the 4 screw holes enough to fit into the original screw holes on the body.
FFIW, I found the TS pickup ring plastic to be very soft and pliable. In fact, once I screwed everything down tight I discovered the back side of the bridge ring had a propensity to bow outward, away from the pickup.
I solved this by simply loosening the screws along that side of the ring so there was enough slack to remove the bowing.

I can't answer the SG guard fit issue, but I think it would be doable with some minor tweaking and shifting.

Though it seems maybe the triple shots along with the 2 push/pulls for OOP, and series/parallel give even more options than the JP wiring, and is easier to do with less error.

That setup will give you the full JP mod plus the ability to select specific coils via the Triple Shots. I don't mind the TS switches and it minimizes the push/pull issues I have with being able to grasp the knobs while I'm playing.
I've found that I prefer the solid metal Tele style knobs for my push/pull pots.

How would it work with the independent series/parallel on the rings mixed with the push/pull one?

The pot wiring itself isn't an issue with the TS since that really involves the switching part of the mod.

The modern/50's and dependent/independent mods can be done on your guitar now, without any TS or push/pulls involved.

In fact, if you haven't done this yet, I'd recommend getting paper-in-oil (PIO) caps or at least some good Orange Drops in whatever values you like, and better quality, 500k pots installed anyway.
That would be good practice for later modding and it would give you a better understanding of the modding options for your SG.

So you could break it down like this; 2x 500K push/pulls volumes and 2 500k pots tones with 2 x PIO caps should be roughly $40US with shipping.
Wire up the new pots with the new caps just to get the modern/50's, independent/dependent decision out of the way.
You won't be using the push/pull switches just yet but you can "pre-wire" them(the "X" cross wires for the OOP and the ground & "jumper" for the series/parallel switch).

Then when you can find a deal on the Triple Shots, simply wire the pups to the TS's and the TS's to your volume pot and switches and you're good to go.


MM