sanding sealer

[jake_xms3_punk]

which grit sandpaper do you guys use to sand after applying sanding sealer?

[Ayrton]

Re: sanding sealer

Depends on the final finish. Paint you can use 220, stain or a translucent finish, 320 or even 400.

What exactly are you doing?

[ErikH]

I used 320 to knock off the rough and then 600 to get it real smooth before painting my SG Jr.

[PoorMan]

Re: sanding sealer

There are too many variables to give one answer.

Depends on finish thickness, quality of prep work, etc. One job could be very different from another. You have to assess the overall situation.

That being said, I'm a fan of good prep work and hate having to deal wth deep sanding scratches. I try to create a situation where I can start with 320-400.

[jake_xms3_punk]

Re: sanding sealer

wood is now sanded to 320 grit raw but there are still a few tiny bumps, lumps and sctratches etc. i want a solid finish. i want to smooth out the bumps and get a level surface with the sealer. i will be using nitro primer and finish if that makes a difference? thanks guys.

[FuseG4]

Re: sanding sealer

nitro primer, paint, and clearcoat, are thin enough that if you have any major bumps or scratches left, then they'll show in the finished product.

you should block sand (ALWAYS use a sanding block!!) any bumps flat first. If you go through the sealer, touch it up in that area and then sand it flat again. BTW if you had to use a grain filler, and you sand through that, I'd say sand the whole thing down with 80 grit or so and start over, and get things smooth with the grain filler (it's ok to use a lot), no pits, scratches or bumps (at least 220 grit) before moving to sanding sealer.

Anyways you can always throw on another coat of sanding sealer if you have to, to get any light scratches out. If any spots appear "shiny" when held to light, lightly block sand the area with 220 or higher until the area appears matte. When the whole thing looks matte, then you can work up to probably 400 or so before starting in with the primer.

[jake_xms3_punk]

Re: sanding sealer

nitro primer, paint, and clearcoat, are thin enough that if you have any major bumps or scratches left, then they'll show in the finished product.

you should block sand (ALWAYS use a sanding block!!) any bumps flat first. If you go through the sealer, touch it up in that area and then sand it flat again. BTW if you had to use a grain filler, and you sand through that, I'd say sand the whole thing down with 80 grit or so and start over, and get things smooth with the grain filler (it's ok to use a lot), no pits, scratches or bumps (at least 220 grit) before moving to sanding sealer.

Anyways you can always throw on another coat of sanding sealer if you have to, to get any light scratches out. If any spots appear "shiny" when held to light, lightly block sand the area with 220 or higher until the area appears matte. When the whole thing looks matte, then you can work up to probably 400 or so before starting in with the primer.

cheers for the info!
i did use one coat/application of grain filler. i hope i don't have to sand down and have to start again. i do use a sanding block. but the main lumps and bumps are on the sides and around the horn where it is harder to sand, i use sandpaper wrapped around a pole basically for the sides lol.

[FuseG4]

Re: sanding sealer

yeah I did the sandpaper pole method too. i count it as block sanding

but yeah, you can use a LOT of grain filler, and a good amount of sanding sealer because it's thin, most of it sands off anyways, and this is the LAST chance you get to make everything look even.

The body I did, if I could go back and do it again, would have used more grain filler and sanded out more of the imperfections then. That would have been MUCH better than still seeing my mistakes once I've got a whole can of Dakota Red on there.

[ImmortalSix]

Re: sanding sealer

which grit sandpaper do you guys use to sand after applying sanding sealer?

I used 220 then 320