Ultimately, I'd like to be setup to refret guitars, but in the meantime, I'd like to learn to level the frets. The Stew Mac "Essential Fretting Tools" pack is a little out of the budget, so what should I get if I'm just leveling them for now?
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Re: Leveling tools
I'm guessing that a proper notched straightedge, radiused levelling beam, a crowning file and polishing/buffing compound will get the job done. Maybe a fret rocker for spot-jobs. Thus far I got away with way less, but I only did spot jobs on my guitars to correct subpar factory fretjobs or to deal with frequently played and worn spots, not whole fretboards. I want to try my hand at proper fretjobs too someday, but the professional tools are just too much $$$ for the purpose they would serve in my case. For example the price of good straigthedge baffled me at first, but then I relized that I have to pay extra to get a really straight one and production with minimal tolerances costs much more.Last edited by nexion218; 10-28-2019, 12:35 AM.
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Re: Leveling tools
notched straight edge is handy but necessary. A radiussed leveling beam is imho a horrible idea because you have zero control over the final radius of the frets which is something you really want. This is my list:
Tools:
* flat leveling beam (Stewmac has a GREAT one, which weighs quite a bit, but I have a milled aluminium one which is cheaper: a milled level would work well too; those things that measure is something's level with that little window and a liquid and a ball).
* triangular file to recrown. I really can't work with those concave crowning files. I always use a triangular file. Had to buy a new one last week after over 200 fret jobs. I'll miss my old, trusted file.
* fret rocker. Absolutely mandatory to find the high spots.
* fret end file to file off the annoying little fret ends that are sharp (the corners: not the BEVEL!).
Materials:
*3M stikit Gold 220 grit (to glue to the leveling beam: much easier to work with than anything else, lasts a while and saves you a lot of headache compared to other self-adhesive sandpapers: this material ROCKS).
* grit 220, 600, 1000, 1200, 2000 wet & dry sandpaper (I personally use grit 220 from 3M and the rest from Colad or Bosch: the later was made for lacquer and metal and those work really well: don't use Kovax Assilex: that just won't cut it; literally).
* felt buffing wheel for a dremel with jeweler's rouge (costs you next to nothing; I do 20 guitars with 1 wheel and approximately 2000 guitars with 1 bar of rouge: you can also use Menzerna buffing compound Fine, for steel).
* stewmac orange tape in 3 widths (you'll thank me later: cutting tape is a pain. I don't use the brown tape because it leaves too much residue, the orange is fine. however, the brown tape is sturdier than the orange. but for a 1-size-fits-all tape, orange is best).
What not to use imho:
*leveling file (will never ever yield a truly flat and uniform radius, gouges out scratches that are really deep and take ages to sand away and buff out).
* concave crowning file (see above)
* your average painter's tape: too thin. you'll damage your fretboard immensely if you cheap out.
* buffing rubbers: horrible. Just won't cut it (literally) and you have to go back and do it all over again. Do yourself a favor and do it right from the start with proper sandpapers.
* a buffing wheel for lacquer to polish your frets. It rotates too slowly to really buff the metal and the metal that's removed stays in the buffing wheel which will scratch finish.
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Re: Leveling tools
Originally posted by orpheo View PostA radiussed leveling beam is imho a horrible idea because you have zero control over the final radius of the frets which is something you really want. This is my list:
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Re: Leveling tools
Originally posted by nexion218 View PostI accept it, especially from someone like you, who is clearly way more knowledgeable than I am, but having a hard time understanding it... Isn't that the whole point of the tool? To have a sanding beam, that has the desired radius so if the user manages to move it in a straight line along the centerline of the fretboard with even pressure applied, it will produce uniform radius across the whole of the board?
A straight edge moved diagonally across the frets (from bass side, starting at the nut, toward the treble side, ending at the neck side, and then the other way around so you're sanding in a cross shape, to minimize continously sanding in one direction which will cause deformations as well) will absolutely make the radius of the frets correct (if they're pressed in the board correctly) as well as negate the issues I described above. Also, you're MUCH more versatile with one straight edge leveling beam: every radius and compound radii are easily managed.
Hence: don't use a radius beam.
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Re: Leveling tools
Excellent info... thanks!
Is there a specific file you’d recommend? Most of the files I have any experience with are cheap junk, so I’d be inclined to buy one from Stew Mac. I’ll probably overpay, but figure it’ll be a good one.Last edited by JB_From_Hell; 10-28-2019, 04:16 AM.“I can play the hell out of a riff. The rest of it’s all bulls**t anyway,” Gary Holt
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Re: Leveling tools
Originally posted by JB_From_Hell View PostExcellent info... thanks!
Is there a specific file you’d recommend? Most of the files I have any experience with are cheap junk, so I’d be inclined to buy one from Stew Mac. I’ll probably overpay, but figure it’ll be a good one.I have used crimson's for a while, crimson guitars from the UK, and that was a good one. I'll let you know how stewmac's works in a few days.
About the rest: I get my stikit via stewmac exclusively. can't find anyone who sells it! sandpaper: so many auto-detailers who sell that stuff, so you should be good to go. Stewmac's leveling beam, the largest one, is a GREAT purchase but not cheap but so, so worth it. The weight is what makes the difference. Because it is heavy, it finds its own level, so to speak.
And Stewmac's fret corner file is perfection in file-form. I'm serious. It took away the issues I had for years with the file I had.
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Re: Leveling tools
I manage an auto parts store, and we carry 3M sandpaper, so definitely good there.
I have the Stew Mac slip-joint pliers with the replaceable plastic jaws, which are awesome. Would rather save and buy quality stuff piece by piece, so I’ll put that straight edge on my list. You’re recommending the 24” or the 18”?“I can play the hell out of a riff. The rest of it’s all bulls**t anyway,” Gary Holt
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Re: Leveling tools
I've only used stainless steel frets, but have had good success using:
- Leveling file
- Fret rocker
- Fret crowning file
- A lot of different grits of sandpaper 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 1000
- A sharpie
to do what you want.
Use the rocker to find high spots. Mark 'em with your sharpie to make sure you're hitting the right spot. Then use the leveling file to take them down. Go very, very lightly while doing this or you'll get gouges that are a ***** to remove. Then black the tops of all the frets with sharpie and use your crowning file to reduce the sharpie mark down to a thin line. Then it's just a matter of sanding, sanding, sanding to smooth the frets out. I'd actually recommend buying a dremel with a buffing attachment for this - will probably do that on my next refret.Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!
Originally posted by Douglas AdamsThis planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.
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Re: Leveling tools
Originally posted by GuitarStv View PostI've only used stainless steel frets, but have had good success using:
- Leveling file
- Fret rocker
- Fret crowning file
- A lot of different grits of sandpaper 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 1000
- A sharpie
to do what you want.
Use the rocker to find high spots. Mark 'em with your sharpie to make sure you're hitting the right spot. Then use the leveling file to take them down. Go very, very lightly while doing this or you'll get gouges that are a ***** to remove. Then black the tops of all the frets with sharpie and use your crowning file to reduce the sharpie mark down to a thin line. Then it's just a matter of sanding, sanding, sanding to smooth the frets out. I'd actually recommend buying a dremel with a buffing attachment for this - will probably do that on my next refret.
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Re: Leveling tools
At the very least you need one of these kits.
Just kidding.
You could get by with just a 16" flat leveling beam ($59.45 from StewMac, $23.59 from Amazon), fret rocker ($28.86 SM, $8.58 Am), and fret end dressing file ($14.67 SM), and radius gauges ($26.31 SM).
I personally like to use a radius sanding block, but as Orpheo said, it can be tricky to use. If you're very careful, it works great. I use an 18" aluminum block for final fretboard and fret radius and levelling work, but it's $144. I used to use a 8" wood block (and still do for my rough-in sanding of the fretboard). Some sizes are currently on sale at SM for $8.45.Originally Posted by IanBallard
Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.
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Re: Leveling tools
Do I need to go high dollar on the triangle file? I’ll get a good one if it’s necessary, but if my cheapo set will do...
Also, have any of you guys posted a how-to video? There are tons available, but I’d be interested in seeing your methods.“I can play the hell out of a riff. The rest of it’s all bulls**t anyway,” Gary Holt
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Re: Leveling tools
YMMV with files. Some people really like using triangle files for fret crowning, I find them very hard to use and your odds of gouging the fretboard go way up in comparison to using a regular (U shaped) fret crowning file.Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!
Originally posted by Douglas AdamsThis planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.
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Re: Leveling tools
The issue I'm having is buzzing when I bend on my '06 MIM Strat. Here's the details:
Radius: 9.5"
Strings: 10-52 (standard tuning)
Relief: .012" at 8th fret (capo'd at 1, held down at 17)
Action: 2mm on low E at 12th, 1.5mm at high E at 12th
If I do a whole step bend on the high E at the 13th fret, it starts fretting out. The other strings do the same to varying degrees, but the low E is the worst. It chokes out completely. Does this indicate a particular fret? I'm intending to level the whole thing, but looking for advice to learn to troubleshoot.
Thanks again everybody for all the info and advice.“I can play the hell out of a riff. The rest of it’s all bulls**t anyway,” Gary Holt
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Re: Leveling tools
Radius: 9.5"...…...If I do a whole step bend on the high E at the 13th fret, it starts fretting out. The other strings do the same to varying degrees, but the low E is the worst. It chokes out completely.
Imagine bending a string over an inflated balloon, instead of over a flat table.....aka Chris Pile, formerly of Six String Fever
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