Originally posted by Mincer
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New Idea for a Strat Build
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Last edited by ItsaBass; 07-26-2020, 04:33 PM.Originally posted by LesStratYogi Berra was correct.Originally posted by JOLLYI do a few chord things, some crappy lead stuff, and then some rhythm stuff.
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My Bladerunner works pretty well, especially since I replaced the nut. My favorite remains the original Wilkinson, though.Administrator of the SDUGF
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Originally posted by Mincer View PostMy Bladerunner works pretty well, especially since I replaced the nut. My favorite remains the original Wilkinson, though.
I also have problems with how far back the pivot/hinge point is. It makes for odd vibrato geometry if you float the vibrato. For those who deck it, it's probably fine. When you float, the bridge plate sits at a fairly extreme angle, and thus responds too quickly when diving. I feel like those who float would benefit from shims under the mounting plate. That way you could pull up or down, but keep the bridge plate parallel to the fretboard (like a two point vibrato).
Also, something about the saddle geometry of the pivot point being so far back and the bride plate sitting at such a steep angle makes it so a few of the saddles can barely intonate while remaining on the bridge plate. If I went to lighter strings than my 11s, the D saddle would want to be off the front end of the bridge plate and over the spring.
And, when my new Bladerunner arrived, the intonation screws were so cheaply made that more than half of the saddle height screws were effectively stripped out – so softly cut that an Allen wrench wouldn't grab the sides of the holes. The Allen wrench they supplied was total Chinese junk – also soft sided. But even with a quality Allen wrench of the right size, there was slippage in the height screws. They set me a batch of replacements, and 1/3 of those were bad too. In the end, I was able to get it working with 10 decent height screws and two so-so ones.
I feel like the design is something that can be got used to and worked around. But the materials and build quality are unacceptable at that price. It's like they designed a vibrato that would have been nice if nicely built in house...and then immediately turned around and outsourced a cheap-o version of it, at what should have been the price for an in-house unit.
Bottom line, it's not complete garbage on an absolute level...but for the price, it is. It should be an $80 piece of hardware.Originally posted by LesStratYogi Berra was correct.Originally posted by JOLLYI do a few chord things, some crappy lead stuff, and then some rhythm stuff.
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I almost went for one for a Bladerunner when they first came out but after a while I realized I don't even use the trem to begin with. I have the trems decked and with 4 springs tight to keep it down. So in the end, it would've been a waste of money for me. The Gotoh 6-screw vintage trem from Warmoth suits me just fine.
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Originally posted by ItsaBass View Post
The Bladerunner works for me, as in it is not total garbage. But its build quality and materials are not very high end for the price. You can get better built vibratos, built by hand in the U.S.A., out of clearly specified materials, for less. E.g. Callaham or Hipshot. Bladerunner are made in China, and – at least when I ordered mine – the Bladerunner materials used were not specified.
I also have problems with how far back the pivot/hinge point is. It makes for odd vibrato geometry if you float the vibrato. For those who deck it, it's probably fine. When you float, the bridge plate sits at a fairly extreme angle, and thus responds too quickly when diving. I feel like those who float would benefit from shims under the mounting plate. That way you could pull up or down, but keep the bridge plate parallel to the fretboard (like a two point vibrato).
Also, something about the saddle geometry of the pivot point being so far back and the bride plate sitting at such a steep angle makes it so a few of the saddles can barely intonate while remaining on the bridge plate. If I went to lighter strings than my 11s, the D saddle would want to be off the front end of the bridge plate and over the spring.
And, when my new Bladerunner arrived, the intonation screws were so cheaply made that more than half of the saddle height screws were effectively stripped out – so softly cut that an Allen wrench wouldn't grab the sides of the holes. The Allen wrench they supplied was total Chinese junk – also soft sided. But even with a quality Allen wrench of the right size, there was slippage in the height screws. They set me a batch of replacements, and 1/3 of those were bad too. In the end, I was able to get it working with 10 decent height screws and two so-so ones.
I feel like the design is something that can be got used to and worked around. But the materials and build quality are unacceptable at that price. It's like they designed a vibrato that would have been nice if nicely built in house...and then immediately turned around and outsourced a cheap-o version of it, at what should have been the price for an in-house unit.
Bottom line, it's not complete garbage on an absolute level...but for the price, it is. It should be an $80 piece of hardware.Administrator of the SDUGF
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Well, I am bumping this because there has been a development. I have set aside the idea of using my MIM Strat neck, and purchased this two-piece rosewood neck for the project. 10" radius, medium frets, thick U profile (almost 1"), "vintage" slab style, with a heel adjusting rod and the smooth, uninterrupted headstock transition that goes with it. Not yet sure of the finishing process that I'll use, but it might involve a light burgundy dye and an oil finish to make it warmer, darker, and more even. But if it is a good match to the celluloid tort pickguard material, I'll likely just oil it.
Last edited by ItsaBass; 10-15-2020, 12:39 AM.Originally posted by LesStratYogi Berra was correct.Originally posted by JOLLYI do a few chord things, some crappy lead stuff, and then some rhythm stuff.
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Beautiful neck! Is it heavy? I've played a few rosewood necked guitars, and some were perfect, and a few were neck heavy. I do like the idea of some light dye on it, as it isn't as dark as some rosewoods. I am also curious about that trem, as I keep seeing it pop up on other guitars, but haven't tried one yet. I am planning out a build in my head right now, and that trem is on the top of the list.
This is going to be a great project.Administrator of the SDUGF
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Not sure about the weight of the neck yet, and that’s a stock photo, so I don’t know what my neck‘s grain will look like. They adjust their photos a tad too bright to be realistic, but at the same time, it will need to be a bit darker to look its best in my opinion. It would be great if I could also introduce a little more burgundy while I am at it. I will have to see it next to the pickguard to know for sure, but I’m thinking a light black/burgundy dye mixture, followed by a thin clear finish of some sort. Maybe rubbed on light oil or a semi gloss lacquer.Last edited by ItsaBass; 10-15-2020, 09:53 AM.Originally posted by LesStratYogi Berra was correct.Originally posted by JOLLYI do a few chord things, some crappy lead stuff, and then some rhythm stuff.
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Neck came today. It's nice. It's not the one in the pic. Needs a nut, and the finishing fret work. The board is darker than the main shaft of the neck. Still bouncing around ideas.
If you've ever wanted an all rosewood neck, grab one of these from the Stratosphere. The price is right for what you get, compared to any other all rosewood neck on the market. They have Strat and Tele ones, and two styles for each (vintage or modern). The "vintage" isn't really typical vintage Fender neck specs, because it has a 10" radius and medium frets. But at least it's a nice, chunky neck profile, it's well made, and it's under $300 delivered.
Oh, and it doesn't feel particularly heavy to me.Originally posted by LesStratYogi Berra was correct.Originally posted by JOLLYI do a few chord things, some crappy lead stuff, and then some rhythm stuff.
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