Refin advice

[Chistopher]

A friend of mine gave me an cheapo Tele body in a translucent butterscotch blonde. I'm looking to refinish it purely for the practice. Chemical stripper is off the table, and I'm assuming a heat gun would risk the integrity of the veneer, so I think I'm stuck with sanding.

This would be my first axe that I'm shooting for a stain, so my usual pisspoor sanding method isn't going to cut it. I'm assuming power sander for the front, sanding block for the sides, but what about the fillet? How do I sand the edges without going through them? My guess for paper is 60 grit until all the color is gone, then 120 to flatten out the rough spots, then 320 to smooth it out?

Any advice for staining either? I've never done it before

[ICTGoober]

WHY is chemical stripping off the table?

[Clint 55]

Yes, that's the general idea for sanding, although you could optimize the grits. I sanded surfboards professionally. For heavy to start you could go between 40, 60, or 80. Sometimes lower grit cuts better, sometimes 80 actually cuts better. If you start cutting through most of the finish with 40, you could switch to 80 to avoid deep scratches. Once you have the finish off, go to 120 to take out all the scratches. 120 won't put deep scratches in the wood so do all of the scratch removal and smoothing with 120. Then go to 180 for fine sanding and the surface should be perfect and quite soft. After that if you choose, you can take it to whatever further fine grit you prefer: 220, 320, 400 etc.

[Chistopher]

Thinner doesn't work. The paint they put in these things is rock solid

[Chistopher]

Yes, that's the general idea for sanding, although you could optimize the grits. I sanded surfboards professionally. For heavy to start you could go between 40, 60, or 80. Sometimes lower grit cuts better, sometimes 80 actually cuts better. If you start cutting through most of the finish with 40, you could switch to 80 to avoid deep scratches. Once you have the finish off, go to 120 to take out all the scratches. 120 won't put deep scratches in the wood so do all of the scratch removal and smoothing with 120. Then go to 180 for fine sanding and the surface should be perfect and quite soft. After that if you choose, you can take it to whatever further fine grit you prefer: 220, 320, 400 etc.

Any tips on how to hit the edges? Every time I've tried sanding in the past I've sanded through the edges.

Also does this look deep enough? I don't know if the stain will take too well to this.

[Clint 55]

That looks pretty nice. Notice how there are only a little deep scratches left. If you focused on that with 180 it would bring it to a uniform finish. But it doesn't look bad. For the sides, yes just use a sanding block if you need to be careful. They make sanding blocks with one side hard and one side with a soft pad that can be helpful.

[Chistopher]

I'll have to pick one up. Do you think it's deep enough? There are several places on the internet showing a lighter color, but it could just be the wood.

[Clint 55]

Do you mean did you sand deep enough? I'd keep sanding with 180 to take out those scratches because they'll show after you stain. Go for a uniform surface with no deep scratches. Jumping ahead to finer grits can trick you, it makes the surface soft, but it doesn't cut enough to take out the scratches from the heavy grits.

[GuitarDoc]

I'll have to pick one up. Do you think it's deep enough?

Absolutely NOT! (In your photo I can see lots of finish and sealer left in the wood. It ALL needs to be removed.
Not if you are going to stain it. If you were just going to paint it then just sand it smooth (to 320 grit). If you're going to stain it, you need to sand every mm of it (including the edges) down to bare wood (not even the slightest hint of any finish or sealer left). Just use a small piece of sandpaper curved, in your bare hand, to sand the edges...don't use ANY kind of a block (a soft cloth in your hand works ok).

[Chistopher]

Absolutely NOT! (In your photo I can see lots of finish and sealer left in the wood. It ALL needs to be removed.
Not if you are going to stain it. If you were just going to paint it then just sand it smooth (to 320 grit). If you're going to stain it, you need to sand every mm of it (including the edges) down to bare wood (not even the slightest hint of any finish or sealer left). Just use a small piece of sandpaper curved, in your bare hand, to sand the edges...don't use ANY kind of a block (a soft cloth in your hand works ok).

This is what I feared. With how much material I am using I suppose I will likely have to shim the neck. What's the best indication to know when I have hit wood? Also I don't think this matters too much, but I do one face at a time, IE front, then back, then edges. Is that fine or should I try to sand the entire thing roughly equally?

[Chistopher]

Also how easy is it to sand through the veneer? This is an Affinity, so I feel the wood is likely going to be softer than the finish

[GuitarDoc]

You don't have to sand it in any order.
Sand until you don't see ANY discoloration in the wood. Then check it with a few drops of some alcohol...if it is absorbed rapidly and evenly you're good to go. If there is any spot where the alcohol isn't absorbed quickly or completely, or especially if it beads up in the slightest, you need to do more sanding.

[ehdwuld]

I would make a tummy cut in that with a large wood rasp
maybe a forearm carve on the front

maybe a PRS swoop on the lower bout

don't stop now

make it yours

[Chistopher]

I'm really struggling with scratching the rounded edges where the front and back of the guitar meets the side, any way around this?

[ehdwuld]

just sand it

if you rough it up too much use a finer grit to finish

I dont understand your caution