Id like to talk to George about his pot ...

[JMP/HBE]

Potentiometer as in Lynch Tiger push pull. I got a 90's Screamin Demon to replace the Duncan Custom that was in there.
The 30 yr old pot bit the dust in the process. Lucky i have a Kami to copy wiring off of.
Then my Mogani cable of 15 years develops a short while testing the new switch.
Then the shaft diameter on the new pot was larger than the stock hole.
Used 5 different bits [carefully] going larger each time. Maxed out the biggest one i had and that one worked.
Mojotone hooked my up with a decent pot. This one pops up when depressed instead of have to grab and pull up.
Its in there now but hope i dont have to do that again.

https://www.mojotone.com/Mojotone-500K-Audio-Taper-Push-Push-Short-Shaft-Guitar-Potentiometer

[GuitarDoc]

Oh my! Those lugs on that p/p are ugly!

[GuitarDoc]

I like the push/push pots when the knobs are difficult to grab onto to pull up. The only problem with them is that you can't tell visually which position the push/push is in.
You short in the Mogami cable is probably in one of the plugs, not the cable per se.

[ArtieToo]

Robocop meets cockroach.

But seriously, that 1st review on your link was interesting. I recently "fixed" a customers guitar with this same symptom. He had to use a push-push because it was a Strat and he wanted to keep the stock appearance. What happened was, when he pushed the knob on, it worked fine. With repeated push's, the knob sunk down on the shaft a bit more 'til it hit the body before engaging the "lock" portion of the switch. A simple plastic spacer under the knob, (between shaft and knob shaft hole), did the trick.

This may not apply to your situation, but still something to be aware of.

[JMP/HBE]

I like the push/push pots when the knobs are difficult to grab onto to pull up. The only problem with them is that you can't tell visually which position the push/push is in.
You short in the Mogami cable is probably in one of the plugs, not the cable per se.

No i checked the Neutrix plugs they were fine. If i had to guess it was kinked where the cable hung off the strap lock lug.
15 years is a record for an intrument cable with me. I never had a problem before and it took a while to figure WTF was going on.
The new 500K audio taper push pull is really nice and real smooth. Dead silent too.
Worthy upgrade. I was going to buy another but looks like i got the only one they had.

[MikeS]

Hopefully the design of push/push have evolved. I prefer the operation of push/push but I haven’t had one in many years because the spring catch would always break and they’d be stuck in the up position.

[Mincer]

If I need a push/push (which I prefer), I use an S1 switch.

[jeremy]

i like the push/push i have them in a few guitars. i can always tell which position they are in so that hasnt been an issue for me.

[ErikH]

IIRC, he had push/push in his guitars back in the 80’s. There’s some videos where he visibly slaps the pot to switch pickups. I’ve never tried a push/push myself.

[Aceman]

That's an LTD - one of the cheap imports. You get what you pay for.

[Mincer]

A push/push is certainly easier to use, even if they don't tend to last as long as a push/pull. We should get some engineers on that.

[JMP/HBE]

That's an LTD - one of the cheap imports. You get what you pay for.

Its not cheap its a GL-500 made in Korea which were only made a few years, Its an absolutely amazing guitar.
But its no petrified pile of Ace Frehley turds from Budokan.
LTD makes great guitars and is a division of ESP guitars.

[JMP/HBE]

A push/push is certainly easier to use, even if they don't tend to last as long as a push/pull. We should get some engineers on that.

Come to find out this switch is a "push / push". I got purely by luck.
Ive been told George Lynchs' original guitars had "push / Push.