CAn someone please tell my if my JCM 800 and 4x12 cab is any good?

[Sorg]

I bought my amp and cab many years ago, and payed ca 650$ back then. Can someone please tell me if it was a good buy, and how the amp and cab are? I will tell as much as I know about them, so you can find out what I am talking about.

The amp:
Marshall JCM 800 Lead Series
- Power and Standby switch
- 3 Channels: Normal (Bass, treble and Gain), Boost (Bass, Middle, Treble, Volume, Gain) and Master (Presence, Volume and Reverb).
- The serial number i 122694
- Model 2210 I guess...

The Cab:
Marshall Lead Series Cab Model 8412
- Serial number 4234
- 140 W R.M.S. 8 8ohms
- 4 x 12 cab, but the size is a bit smaller than the regular Marshall 4x12 cabs.

I am pretty satisfied with my amp and cab, especially with the clean. The Boost channel is very chrunchy (sounds like a heavy Bif Muff) and does not give the Fat, chrunchy, clear and massive distortion I am looking for.

Any possibilities to change this? Heard that some guys had done amazing things with their JCM 800 in here.

It`s modded by the way. The guy who had it before me played in a Noise/Emo band and maybe that`s why the boost channel souns a little weird...

Any suggestions? Thanks!

[Robert S.]

The 2210s are pretty cool heads, though I might have it put back to stock by someone qualified to do so.

I don't have any experiece with those bottoms, but it should be ok depending on the speakers.

At todays prices for that gear you got the bottom for free and then some so you are definately ok there.

BTW, thats a two channel head.

[TwilightOdyssey]

You got a steal, man! When was the last time you checked the tubes? It may be as simple as replacing them. Also, when was the last time you had the bias of the amp checked?

I would say, take it to a qualified Marshall tech and I think you will be very happy with the end result!!

[TwilightOdyssey]

That serial number makes no sense. You should re-check it. The letter "I" was skipped by Marshall b/c "H" lasted for 18 months. Also, that would date the head back to about 1975; about 10 years prior to the production of the head!!

The 2210 is a 100W head, and was in production between '83 -'90.

I can find no refererence to an 8412 cabinet anywhere in my 'History of Marshall' book.

[Gearjoneser]

That head should have as much gain as any JCM 800, but not as much as Jubilees or DSL's. It's from the mid 80's.
I'd buy a new set of tubes from the Ebay store, revolutionguitar.com, and pay a tech about $30-$50 to bias it and return it to stock, if someone messed with it.

Then, sell the cab, which was a lower line cab for a solid state Marshall, and replace it with a JCM 800 or 900 1960A.

Buy a good sounding OD unit, and you'll have a clean channel,
a fairly highgain channel, and a boost to bring it up to the gain level you're looking for.

[mrid]

Post some pics of the circuit board...

[59paul]

Great advice, Robert and Gearjoneser !!!!

[dystrust]

Model 2210

I've played several 2210s, and this may be coincidence but I've noticed a trend among them. The early ones (before about '87) have the rather fuzzy, muddy sound you've described. I don't know what causes this, but all of the early 2210s I've played have that sound. All of the later 2210s I've played have the crunchier sound ala Rage Against the Machine's "Know Your Enemy". These later heads have serial numbers starting with V, W, or X.

[TwilightOdyssey]

Re: Model 2210

Originally posted by dystrust
I've played several 2210s, and this may be coincidence but I've noticed a trend among them. The early ones (before about '87) have the rather fuzzy, muddy sound you've described. I don't know what causes this, but all of the early 2210s I've played have that sound. All of the later 2210s I've played have the crunchier sound ala Rage Against the Machine's "Know Your Enemy". These later heads have serial numbers starting with V, W, or X.

One of the more common problems with the JCM800 is that the board inside the head bends over time, or can even twist. I think this is caused by the weight of various components pressing against the board, on its standoffs. The result of the board warping can be the problem you're describing. Before purchasing an older JCM800, make sure you have a tech check the board first to make sure it's still straight.

[Sorg]

Thansk for all the advises!

The serial number is 122694, and not i 122694. That`s for sure.

I will definitly change tubes, but what the heck shall I choose? It`s dozens of different tubes to choose out there. If I say I want tubes that gives good opportunity for a real massive Metal-sound what would you suggest then?

And should I replace the cab you say? Will that make much difference to my sound?

[Sorg]

Originally posted by Robert S.
The 2210s are pretty cool heads, though I might have it put back to stock by someone qualified to do so.

I don't have any experiece with those bottoms, but it should be ok depending on the speakers.

At todays prices for that gear you got the bottom for free and then some so you are definately ok there.

BTW, thats a two channel head.

1. What do you mean with: "put it back to stock"?
2. What is the bottom? The Amp?
3. What do you mean with "At todays prices for that gear you got the bottom for free and then some so you are definately ok there." ?

Sorry for all the q`s...

[Maui]

I bought my JCM DSL 100 off of ebay when i got the amp it sounded ok but i know that some people sell there amps cause they just dont sound like it did the day they bought them. I ended up putting 4 JJ's E34L's and 4 JJ's 12ax7's in and what a "BIG" difference. They recommend that you change your power tubes every 2 years depending on how much you have your amp on of course and change the preamp tubes every 3 years. Now depending on the make of the preamp tubes they will all differ in sound a JJ's 12ax7's will sound different then electroharmonix or sovtec and so on. Some preamp tube are said to last longer like NOS (new old stock)=Mullards, Telefunkin ect. These tubes cost alot more. Biasing your amp is vary important too, biasing your amp too hot will burn out your tubes faster but will give you a bit better sound. To little will prolong your tubes but you wont get that sound. Now if your amp isn't biased properly meaning evenly between both sides a risk of blowing a transformer could result. Theres actual guide lines for different amps for biasing.

[Sorg]

OK. I will change tubes soon. What should I pick?

I want

Fat, massive yet clear and defined distortion (play a lot of metal). And a warm, smooth and clear clean.

I use Gibson LP. Please give me some options.

[Brow]

I also have a JCM800 2210 head and I notice the fuzzy sounding distortion too.

I'm led to believe that the distortion on these amps sounds fuzzy because they're not a 100% valve signal path and transistors (diode clipping) are used to add to the gain produced by the valves.

I've spoken to Jeremy about this before and he's told me that you can have the diode clipping removed from the amp. He says the gain looses the fuzziness, but you also lose a little gain. It's something I'm considering having done to my amp.

I got my amp for a great price too When I bought it (about 4 or 5 years ago) I paid £220, and £130 for a Orange 4x12 cab. A great price imo

Good luck with the amp.

Craig

[Surgeon]

Originally posted by Sorg
Thansk for all the advises!

The serial number is 122694, and not i 122694. That`s for sure.

I will definitly change tubes, but what the heck shall I choose? It`s dozens of different tubes to choose out there. If I say I want tubes that gives good opportunity for a real massive Metal-sound what would you suggest then?

And should I replace the cab you say? Will that make much difference to my sound?

I have a 4210 (combo version of your head)... I replace the pream tubes with JJs 12ax7s and the power tubes with JJs E34L... I'm really satisfied with the way it sounds now...