any other 3-way blade switches?

[Adieu]

Re: any other 3-way blade switches?

I think they LIED about that switch, it SEEMS to be a 5way... I'm guessing try it like a strat? Also 8 terminals, except the MIM strat switches I've worked on had staggered ones, with odds on one side of the blade, and evens on the other. Lemme hunt up my sloppy wiring notes from that HSS strat I did last week (no coil splits or phases involved, just wired as 3 pups). To do 3-way, just place your 2 pickups as two adjacent ones (like Bridge-mid or mid-neck) and leave the other two positions blank, then obviously avoid switching to them when playing unless you want a stutter effect. To add coil taps, hunt up any old wiring schematic for a doublefat strat with a 5way for your pickups' manufacturer.... Cuz Seymour and DiMarzio use the same colour leads, but they mean different things, Gibby is two-conductor, only the privileged rich tinkerers know what PRS does, and I have noooo clue whose wiring colour schemes Maxon Schaller Gotoh GFS G&B and other OEMs copy for Japanese and Korean guitar manufacturers, or if they each have their own proprietaries... Before EMG Quick Connect and Seymour's wise decision to make Blackouts on the same pin layout, nobody really gave half a thought to standardizing.

[Adieu]

Re: any other 3-way blade switches?

OK! FIXED!!! Now should be usable. PLEASE THROW OUT AND DISREGARD PRIOR EDITS OF MINE IF YOU SAVED THEM, THEY ARE ***WRONG***. SORRY.,


Here we go, 5-way 8 terminal switch, wiring for 3 pickups, left to right (if you reverse it accidentally, should work backwards but still work, so don't worry too much about it).
FENDER 5-WAY SWITCHING FOR 3 PUPS (w/ directions how to make it into a *3-way* for *2 pups* with two kill positions, maybe you can guess or learn how to do coiltaps if you want, I'm not that awake yet) --- should probably apply to this switch as well. Terminals numbered from left to right.

Pots here are:
pot #1 tone secondary no cap (neck? i think... rightmost tone control on 3-pot stratocaster),
pot #2 main tone w/ cap across lugs #2 + #3 (mid? I think),
pot #3 master volume, common ground on back, lug 3 soldered to common ground on its back, lug 2 to HOT side of input jack (!!! else nothing will work), lug 1 soldered to switch terminal #7. ALL GROUNDS SOLDERED TO ITS BACK. THAT MEANS EACH PUP, GROUND SIDE OF JACK, TREMOLO/TUNAMATIC GROUND IF APPLICABLE (won't call it bridge to avoid confusion with the pickup).
Pots #1 & #2 have lug 1 (leftmost when lugs are facing towards you) blank, not connected to anything.
Not sure how this will work with pots omitted, pretty sure you can drop the volume pot right out (find another common ground) and solder switch terminal #7 to HOT side of input jack. If you've got no tones, likely solder switch terminal #1 to switch terminal #3. If you've got 1 master tone (in this schematic always called "pot 2" regardless), not 100% sure but it seems like solder switch terminal #1 to pot 2 lug 2 , switch terminal #3 to pot 2 lug 3, and the tone cap across pot 2 lugs 2 & 3. If you've got 2 independent tones, uh, dunno, maybe slave em like in this Fender schematic (with 1 cap across pot 2 and pot 1 hooking into it without its own dedicated cap), or try for starters with the 1 tone scheme to see if you can get it to work at all?

Switch soldering scheme:
1. pot 2 (tone) lug 2
2. switch, terminal #7
3. pot 1 (tone) lug 3 (rightmost if the terminals of the pot are facing you), if just 1 master tonepot not 100% sure BUT SEEMS LIKE "pot 2" terminal #3. if 2 tones w/1 cap across pot 2, solder pot 1 lug 2 (mid) to pot 2 lug 3 (right). In either case, the cap goes across pot 2 lugs 2 & 3... just don't ask me why. Not sure how to go about two tones with separate caps here.
4. neck pup, hot wire (the one that isn't ground in 2-conductor, the one that isn't soldered together and taped off w/out coil taps, & the same w/ coil taps but the rest gets more complex)
5. blank
6. mid pup, hot
7. switch, terminal #2 (already soldered if you're going in order) AND pot #3 (master volume) lug #1 (leftmost if pots terminals facing down towards you, opposite of the lug soldered to the pot's back for ground)
8. bridge, hot

...with this wiring, if you want to do two 2-conductor humbuckers and give em both tone control, whether different pots or on the same one tone for both, you will want to use position 3-5 (from a switching perspective; far left to middle are NECK/BOTH/BRIDGE, and mid-right and far right would I'm guessing give you a killswitchey no signal/mute).... in other words, use switch terminals #4 & #6 (NECK to 4, BRIDGE to 6) for your pickups, because strat wiring doesn't give the bridge pup (#8) a tone. If you want coiltaps, get ready for some experimentation, and search for HH/superstrat/doublefat strat wiring on a site that's got schematics for your pickups' manufacturer.