DiMarzio Breed Vs. AT-1

[krovatron]

Late answer, but not quite zombie thread time yet, I think.

I'd seriously consider putting your Breed neck in bridge position.
Great medium output option for a bright guitar, unless you really need high output.
In fact, the Breed neck is almost as hot as the bridge: 325mV vs 356mV according to DiMarzio specs.
That's hotter than the FRED.

So months later, still experimenting. The V and Axis wannabe builds are on hold at the moment but testing out pickups. I just D-Aired the AT1 and it is a new animal - I dig it!

I agree that the Breed Neck might be a great bridge pickup. I took out the hexes and thinking of putting a A2 or UOA5 in there and see what I get. It measures 10.22k

[Archer250]

So months later, still experimenting. The V and Axis wannabe builds are on hold at the moment but testing out pickups. I just D-Aired the AT1 and it is a new animal - I dig it!

I agree that the Breed Neck might be a great bridge pickup. I took out the hexes and thinking of putting a A2 or UOA5 in there and see what I get. It measures 10.22k

Never de-aired the AT-1, but I have an Axis (well, an Axis sport)... and I've played 2 AT-1s

The AT-1 is completely different from the Axis, despite what DiMarzio says. Maybe if you de-aired it AND remove the "virtual vintage" rods.

[Overlord]

I couldn't get along with the Breed Bridge. It was similar to the Dominion bridge in my opinion and a bit too loose and fat sounding for me.
I've been wanting to try the AT-1 and see if I'd dig it. The Tone Zone was just too much everything for me. I preferred the X2N to it.
2 Dimarzios I will highly recommend are the Transition and Evo2 bridges. Both are very versatile, tight, plenty of harmonics and mids, and just enough grit.
You might also want to give the regular Norton a chance. That one has an A5 in it.

[krovatron]

Never de-aired the AT-1, but I have an Axis (well, an Axis sport)... and I've played 2 AT-1s

The AT-1 is completely different from the Axis, despite what DiMarzio says. Maybe if you de-aired it AND remove the "virtual vintage" rods.

There is another thread where guys with both go back and forth over that point. The winds on the AT1 are lower than TZ or Axis - that is true. I have two AT1s...I got one in an amazing local deal with an Area 67 and Injector Neck.

The virtual vintage rods claim to be unslotted screws...and I have been thinking about how to remove them without damaging the bobbins. I was wondering about grinding a slot for a flat head screw driver and see if they would screw out easily....but I could easily cut into the bobbin. The other idea was to drill small holes into the rods and then use a screw retractor bit....I think what I have on hand may not be precise enough to remove them. Another guy suggests just tapping them out...metal in plastic...should come out easy but could create a mess. I do need some keeper bars as the Air'd Dimarzios do not have any. Anyone know what size that Philadelphia tool has works for Dimarzio F spaced?

FYI - Here is the link: https://www.dimarzioforum.com/forum/...a&topic=3710.0

[krovatron]

I couldn't get along with the Breed Bridge. It was similar to the Dominion bridge in my opinion and a bit too loose and fat sounding for me.
I've been wanting to try the AT-1 and see if I'd dig it. The Tone Zone was just too much everything for me. I preferred the X2N to it.
2 Dimarzios I will highly recommend are the Transition and Evo2 bridges. Both are very versatile, tight, plenty of harmonics and mids, and just enough grit.
You might also want to give the regular Norton a chance. That one has an A5 in it.

I always miss out on used EVo2s that pop up. I want to try one. The Gravity Storm gets a lot of praise too. I find TZs pretty cheap on Reverb - maybe I Frankenstein the Screw bobbins and Make an axis style. I could Take the two AT1s I have and do the same...It will be a bit lower in output though.

[Masta' C]

I could Take the two AT1s I have and do the same...It will be a bit lower in output though.

The AT-1 isn't Dual Resonance, meaning the coils are matched already.

You can get the AT-1 fairly close to the EBMM Axis bridge pickup by simply de-airing it.

Whether or not to remove the Virtual Vintage slugs is kind of a personal choice, but can be done to further "fine tune" the sound, particularly if you want to increase the top end presence a bit more.

Theoretically, the added inductance from the VV slugs might help close the output gap from the additional wire/coil winds that seem likely on the Axis pickup.

[eclecticsynergy]

There is another thread where guys with both go back and forth over that point. The winds on the AT1 are lower than TZ or Axis - that is true. I have two AT1s...I got one in an amazing local deal with an Area 67 and Injector Neck.

The virtual vintage rods claim to be unslotted screws...and I have been thinking about how to remove them without damaging the bobbins. I was wondering about grinding a slot for a flat head screw driver and see if they would screw out easily....but I could easily cut into the bobbin. The other idea was to drill small holes into the rods and then use a screw retractor bit....I think what I have on hand may not be precise enough to remove them. Another guy suggests just tapping them out...metal in plastic...should come out easy but could create a mess. I do need some keeper bars as the Air'd Dimarzios do not have any. Anyone know what size that Philadelphia tool has works for Dimarzio F spaced?

FYI - Here is the link: https://www.dimarzioforum.com/forum/...a&topic=3710.0

Forum member DavidRavenMoon used to work at DiMarzio putting those VV rods into the bobbins.
Doesn't come around anymore but he might get an email alert if you PM him.

[Masta' C]

All the VV slugs I've seen were actually smooth, not threaded, and just pressed in. I think the idea behind calling them "headless screws" was just to keep people from modifying the pickups

Possible options for removing the VV slugs:

• Slowly pry them up with a sharp pointed object (may need to notch the holes slightly to reach the side of the slug, but it won't be visible once put back together).
• Drill a small hole in the center of each slug and insert a small screw to make it easier to pull them out.
• Epoxy a small dowel or rod to the top of each slug and use that to pull them out once the glue dries.
• It might also be possible to pull them out (or at least get them started) with a strong neodymium magnet once the pickup's own magnet is moved well out of the way.

[SweetClyde99]

All the VV slugs I've seen were actually smooth, not threaded, and just pressed in. I think the idea behind calling them "headless screws" was just to keep people from modifying the pickups

Possible options for removing the VV slugs:

• Slowly pry them up with a sharp pointed object (may need to notch the holes slightly to reach the side of the slug, but it won't be visible once put back together).
• Drill a small hole in the center of each slug and insert a small screw to make it easier to pull them out.
• Epoxy a small dowel or rod to the top of each slug and use that to pull them out once the glue dries.
• It might also be possible to pull them out (or at least get them started) with a strong neodymium magnet once the pickup's own magnet is moved well out of the way.

I actually removed the VV slugs from my AT-1 at one point. I tried gluing a smaller rod to each slug and pulling them out that way, but I could not get the glue to hole well enough. The first bullet above is exactly what I ended up doing. I made the smallest notch possible in the bobbin next to the end of each slug with a box knife, then pried them out using the tip of a 2”wood screw. Worked well, and like you said, invisible once reassembled.

[krovatron]

Reporting back gang - no luck on removing the VV slugs. I was not successful trying to pry them out. Went to try to drill them (my drill press is not great, but raised the RPMs) used some Cobalt bits and I just ended up pushing them further down and not causing much of a hole, just a dent. I worried I might destroy the pickup so I gave up for the time being.

I don't seem to like Dual Resonance pickups that much outside of the Evo so far. Curious what the difference would be from two screw bobbins [edit] [s] like an Axis pup [/s] compared to a bobbin/slug of the AT1. I know Suhr explains that the difference between having single or double screw bobbins is "[w]hen compared to their SS (single screw) counterparts, the DS pickups have a natural roll off on the top end, making them richer, smoother, and more modern sounding." - (Suhr product site)
https://www.suhr.com/pickups/humbuck...ds-humbuckers/

Not sure if that is universal, and if the VV slugs would have a similar effect? Maybe pressing them further away from the magnet does something? lol

I did add some guitar strings to connect both screws and slugs to the magnet as there are no keeper bars in the AT1 - wonder if that is true for all Aired pickups.

[Masta' C]

The effect of the VV slugs has more to do with the added mass within the coils themselves, rather than the slugs' proximity to the magnet, so pressing them slightly deeper into the bobbin won't have much of an effect on the final tone or feel.

Two rows of screw poles is going to have a slightly softer attack and smoother sound compared to the traditional screw/slug design (depending on the alloys used). The difference is noticeable, but rather subtle.

[Archer250]

I don't seem to like Dual Resonance pickups that much outside of the Evo so far. Curious what the difference would be from two screw bobbins like an Axis pup

That's... weird? I have had two EBMM Axis (ok one was a Sport), and the pickups were screw + slug

[krovatron]

That's... weird? I have had two EBMM Axis (ok one was a Sport), and the pickups were screw + slug

It has been awhile since I have played an Axis and now I am starting to wonder where I got the notion. Not sure if people taking the TZ screw bobbins just for the wind DC matching/getting close and/or needing double screw. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain lol

[Masta' C]

Yes, the actual "Axis" pickups are standard screw/slug configuration. I thought you were referring to the use of 2 Tone Zone screw coils.

[krovatron]

Yes, the actual "Axis" pickups are standard screw/slug configuration. I thought you were referring to the use of 2 Tone Zone screw coils.

I was....but I think in error I thought they were being used for being double screw...when it is probably winds due to the slug being asymmetrical. Trying to figure out how to edit my post so it doesnt confuse and create misinformation.