Re: 16 Ohm Speaker in a 8 Ohm Amp?
OK, I am the messenger, that's all. Don't shoot me..... take it up with Fender.
Received wisdom trio:
[1] Never run the amp with no speaker plugged in. This can cause major damage to the OT.
[2] It's OK to add another speaker into the external speaker jack because a mismatched speaker load won't kill the amp, whereas an open circuit (disconnected speakers) may do so.
[3] It's also all right to overdrive the amp. Tubes are very tolerant to massive overdriving, unlike solid state amps, which definately are not. As long as the tubes don't overheat or stay overdriven for long periods, it's rarely fatal.
Transformers work on ratios, and the output impedance (say 8 ohm) is reflected back to the tubes by that ratio (say 500 times) to load the tubes at (say 8x500 = 4000 ohms). Raising the speaker to 16 ohm raises the impedance 'seen' by the tubes to 16x500 = 8000 ohms, lowering the speaker to 4 ohm lowers the impedance 'seen' by the tubes to 4x500 = 2000 ohms.
The output tubes power output depends on impedance matching. They have a 'sweet-spot' load that they work best on, giving the most power out (widely available in charts posted all over the internet - the design load impedance of power output tubes). Other loads will get less power because the tube itself limits how much power it will transfer out. There are two 'sweet-spots', highest power or lowest distortion, and they vary from tube to tube.
From zero ohms load up to some ohms higher than the optimum power load, power tubes do not destroy themselves, they merely change how much is transfered to the load. A tube amp with a tap for 8 ohms will give the nominal power of the amp only with a "matched" 8 ohm speaker load.
If you connct a 16 ohms speaker, the power tubes 'see' the higher ohms on their plates, and can only put out about half the nominal power. Likewise a 4 ohm speaker on the 8 ohm tap means the tubes 'see' roughly half of the matched load, and again will put out only about half of the nominal power.
So - lets consider the open circuit scenario, or running your amp with no speaker.
If you open-circuit the output, the energy that gets stored in the OT magnetic core has nowhere to go if there is a sudden change in the drive voltage (like you hit a chord), and acts like a discharging inductor, much like the old coils in auto ignition circuits.
This can generate voltage spikes sufficient to flash through the OT's insulation and short the windings. I personally would not risk double the rated load on any tap, and NEVER let open-circuit happen - it can fry the transformer. Why?
Well - when you have too LOW an impedance connected, the power tubes can't give all that much more current, so fatal overheating is fairly unlikely. But if you apply too HIGH a load, the power tubes still limit what they put out, but something else kicks in.....
That voltage spike that broke down the insulation on the chord played earlier and the burning residues it left inside the transformer make breakdown easier at the same point on the next cycle of that chord, and quickly break down insulation to make a conductive path between layers giving a permanent short, or a burnt through wire giving you an open-circuit OT, but either way a dead transformer.
Now tubes can be rotated out and new replacements pushed in to replace them.
OT's are, erm, a little more long-winded to replace.
Just like this answer.
Long winded.
And, for the record, I have fried OT's in the past by running heads without the cabinet plugged in, hearing nothing, turning volumes up and hitting chords to see if I could hear anything.....
I tend not to fall for it these days.
But you have your own lessons to learn the hard way, and all the help I can give amounts to nothing compared to the first (and hopefully last) time YOU see YOUR OT fry.....