3 position switch acting weird

Mincer

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While wiring up a set of Antiquities (standard LP layout) with all new electronics, I am having a weird thing happen with the switch- the neck position simply isn’t working. Both pickups work in the center (with all pots working as intended), while the bridge pickup itself works fine, too. But if the neck pickup works in the center position, but not by itself, what could it be? I am thinking a bad switch, but being late and working while I was tired could allow me to miss something. The contacts of the switch seem to be working as they should, but obviously something is messed up.
I am certain that the neck pickup is working in the center, but not in the neck position. From what I can tell (hey it was late), there was a low level hum when the neck was selected that isn’t there in the middle and the bridge. I wanted to ask here what I might have missed before I go to bed, and before I order a new switch.
 
Probably not a bent leaf. As you said, if it works in the middle position then it for sure would work by itself. Keep in mind that a toggle switch works just the opposite to a blade switch. A blade switch works by making contact with the desired pup. A toggle works by opening the contact of the unwanted pup.

Are you sure both pups are on in the center position and that only the bridge is on in the down position?
 
Probably not a bent leaf. As you said, if it works in the middle position then it for sure would work by itself. Keep in mind that a toggle switch works just the opposite to a blade switch. A blade switch works by making contact with the desired pup. A toggle works by opening the contact of the unwanted pup.

Are you sure both pups are on in the center position and that only the bridge is on in the down position?

What he said.
 
Probably not a bent leaf. As you said, if it works in the middle position then it for sure would work by itself. Keep in mind that a toggle switch works just the opposite to a blade switch. A blade switch works by making contact with the desired pup. A toggle works by opening the contact of the unwanted pup.

Are you sure both pups are on in the center position and that only the bridge is on in the down position?

I am sure I checked that, but it was late, so I will check today by removing the bridge pickup from the switch altogether.

Three-way toggles have two screws holding them together. Make sure both screws are very tight.

I will check this, too.
This is a problem I've never faced before- usually it wouldn't work in 2 of the 3 positions.
 
I am sure I checked that, but it was late, so I will check today by removing the bridge pickup from the switch altogether.

That's a really good idea and pretty quick and easy. Also, after that, just for the heck of it, try disconnecting the neck pup (after resoldering the bridge pup back to the switch).
 
Might be worth reversing the connections to see if the same thing happens with the bridge connected where the neck is now, to isolate the problem to the switch.
 
Might be worth reversing the connections to see if the same thing happens with the bridge connected where the neck is now, to isolate the problem to the switch.

Another great idea. I am going to dive in tonight.
 
So far, I did figure out that one side of the switch isn't working consistently. The leaves are bent on one side, and in the middle *sometimes* connect, but mostly don't. There is also a wiring issue with the path from the center lug on the neck volume to the switch. Verifying the pickup works (direct to the jack), I have to have some time to track the signal through the neck volume pot- that's the next step.
 
Sounds a bit messy, but at least you know where to look. Best of luck getting it sorted out. I hope it doesn't end up being too complicated.
 
When I recently rewired my SG for the SD P-Rails I was careful to insulate the incoming "hots" to the switch and, belt and braces, the ground lug/wire that sits right in between them. I used little pieces of heat shrink.

At first I found it odd that the "out" lug the the output jack was located below the "in" lugs / nearest the front face of the guitar, rather than in-between the "ins".

Points here are:

1. Make sure you haven't inadvertently created a solder "short" or "bridge" on the switch.
2. Make sure the ground and hot out are wired up the right way around.

Failing those points I would suggest simply replacing the switch.

Sorry if this is stating the bleeding obvious, but we all make mistakes from time to time.
 
I have always used heat shrink on these switches, because everything is just too close. Thing here is that I sorted out 2 issues:

The switch is certainly a problem The leaves on one side are bent, and don't touch at all, I can sort of bend them so they connect, I might try to see if I can keep them bent in position, or just order a new one.

There is an issue with the neck pickup's volume. I haven't discounted the pot, but I have a few of those and it is easy enough to sort out. This is all being done on the outside of a guitar, which then has to be installed through the F holes and pickup cavities.

It is very easy to get frustrated with this, but I work for 15 minutes at a time or the whole thing would go through the window.
 
OK, today I solved the neck pickup problem- it was a faulty splice in the wire. I ran a new one, and it solved that problem. So the wiring works outside of the guitar, with the exception of the faulty switch, which has really bent insides, not making great contact. I can pinch the leaves together which makes the connection, but further bends them. I did order a new one (Switchcraft short switch).

The next step is running all the parts through the bridge pickup cavity and F holes, very slowly, and very little at a time. Let me just say this: this is about the stupidest design ever. I know soldered connection without an access panel looks better and is traditional, but man, what a stupid idea.
 
Man, I didn't realize this was in a semi-hollow like that. When I rewired my Hamer EchoTone (that I really miss), I was very thankful that I have really long fingers and managed to get everything in place without "too" much trouble. I did use some string to help pull pots in place though.
 
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