A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
- Thread starter BS123
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Benjy_26
25's Nemesis
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Well, when you split HS-3's, they get hotter, so I'm assuming that would happen to the STacks as well (not sure on the wiring, though). IIRC, the Vintage Stack is an Alnico II pickup, right? If so, it will prbably be different from the '54.
Well, when you split HS-3's, they get hotter, so I'm assuming that would happen to the STacks as well (not sure on the wiring, though). IIRC, the Vintage Stack is an Alnico II pickup, right? If so, it will prbably be different from the '54.
BS123
New member
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
No, I belive they're Alnico 5. The Specs page on the Duncan site lists them as:
1. Classic Tele Stack - Alnico 5 Bar
2. Tele Rhythm Stack - Alnico 5 Rod
My Classic Strat Stack is Alnico 2 Rod. The specs may be wrong. I don't know. So, if they are Alnico 2, would splitting make them close to being Alnico 2 Pros?
Benjy_26 said:
No, I belive they're Alnico 5. The Specs page on the Duncan site lists them as:
1. Classic Tele Stack - Alnico 5 Bar
2. Tele Rhythm Stack - Alnico 5 Rod
My Classic Strat Stack is Alnico 2 Rod. The specs may be wrong. I don't know. So, if they are Alnico 2, would splitting make them close to being Alnico 2 Pros?
Benjy_26
25's Nemesis
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Yeah, I think they fudged their specs on the page. The Hot Stack for tele is an alnico V bar, the classic is alnico II rods (both strat and tele). They are probably close to the Alnico II Pro's. Check the resistance on the active coil and see what it meters out at. I wouldn't be surprised if when split they got a bit hotter and glassier (I know, it sounds weird, but that's what happened to my friend's HS-3s).
BS123 said:
Yeah, I think they fudged their specs on the page. The Hot Stack for tele is an alnico V bar, the classic is alnico II rods (both strat and tele). They are probably close to the Alnico II Pro's. Check the resistance on the active coil and see what it meters out at. I wouldn't be surprised if when split they got a bit hotter and glassier (I know, it sounds weird, but that's what happened to my friend's HS-3s).
mongrollo
New member
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Could it be possible that the HS-3 and the HS-2 were wired in parallel? If they did so it is logical that they were hotter when "split".
BS123 you can find it out if your it is wired this way just mesuring the DC resistance of the pickup wired as is and then each of the coils separately.
I guess the dummy coil still will be able tu capture some frecuencies from the strings that will be cancelled with the ones from the hot coil. Those probable are a few, but important in end to cancel some subtles from the tone. So the tone split will be very similar but probably more detailed and complex with more "touch sensitivity". As it will be slighly hotter if it is wired in parallel and slighly lower if wired in series.
This is just a guess but, if you try to split them, please tell me if I am right!!
Could it be possible that the HS-3 and the HS-2 were wired in parallel? If they did so it is logical that they were hotter when "split".
BS123 you can find it out if your it is wired this way just mesuring the DC resistance of the pickup wired as is and then each of the coils separately.
I guess the dummy coil still will be able tu capture some frecuencies from the strings that will be cancelled with the ones from the hot coil. Those probable are a few, but important in end to cancel some subtles from the tone. So the tone split will be very similar but probably more detailed and complex with more "touch sensitivity". As it will be slighly hotter if it is wired in parallel and slighly lower if wired in series.
This is just a guess but, if you try to split them, please tell me if I am right!!
BS123
New member
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Here's a diagram and design a came up with using the Spin-A-Split design.
Spin-A-Split - A humbucker is split when only one coil is engaged full output. This is often used to achieve a single coil sound from a humbucker. Here's one of easiest and most controllable ways to split a humbucker. It not only allows you to split your pickup, but it gives you precise control over the amount of split -- in gradual increments. And the best part is that no major guitar surgery is required.
By utilizing one of your existing tone controls as your splitter switch, you can dial in just the amount of split you desire. Imagine: one coil at full output, mixed with any amount of the other coil -- 0%, 50%, 100%, 86.085xpr2%, or whatever. This is a vast improvement over the old conventional way of splitting a humbucker and hopefully it will help you get a little closer to achieving your own "signature" sound. Give it a try! But please remember to ask your local tech for help if you're not totally comfortable doing repair work on your guitar. And remember do not get the potentiometer too hot when you solder on the wire. From all of the Toneologists here at Seymour Duncan, good luck! And don't forget to commit "total random acts of music" every chance you get!
What do y'all think?
Here's a diagram and design a came up with using the Spin-A-Split design.
Spin-A-Split - A humbucker is split when only one coil is engaged full output. This is often used to achieve a single coil sound from a humbucker. Here's one of easiest and most controllable ways to split a humbucker. It not only allows you to split your pickup, but it gives you precise control over the amount of split -- in gradual increments. And the best part is that no major guitar surgery is required.
By utilizing one of your existing tone controls as your splitter switch, you can dial in just the amount of split you desire. Imagine: one coil at full output, mixed with any amount of the other coil -- 0%, 50%, 100%, 86.085xpr2%, or whatever. This is a vast improvement over the old conventional way of splitting a humbucker and hopefully it will help you get a little closer to achieving your own "signature" sound. Give it a try! But please remember to ask your local tech for help if you're not totally comfortable doing repair work on your guitar. And remember do not get the potentiometer too hot when you solder on the wire. From all of the Toneologists here at Seymour Duncan, good luck! And don't forget to commit "total random acts of music" every chance you get!
What do y'all think?
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Butch; you can wire it that way, and it might provide some interesting tones, but it won't do what you think. You've shorted the south coil of both pups together, so they both will always be on, regardless of the position of your selector switch.
For example, with only the neck selected, you'ld have both coils of the neck, plus the south coil of the bridge. Vice-versa for the bridge.
Like I said, that might be interesting, but its probably not what you wanted. You could replace your "splitting" pot with a concentric, and get the same thing, albiet, with two stacked pots.
Butch; you can wire it that way, and it might provide some interesting tones, but it won't do what you think. You've shorted the south coil of both pups together, so they both will always be on, regardless of the position of your selector switch.
For example, with only the neck selected, you'ld have both coils of the neck, plus the south coil of the bridge. Vice-versa for the bridge.
Like I said, that might be interesting, but its probably not what you wanted. You could replace your "splitting" pot with a concentric, and get the same thing, albiet, with two stacked pots.
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Yup. And I said this to someone else, in another thread somewhere, I always thought it would be cool to do this in a slightly different way than conventional. Use one push/pull to split both pups. (But still keep them separate.) Use the other one to select between inside and outside.
Just a thought. I'll post a diagram if you want.
My wife says you're half right! :yell:mongrollo said:You are quick!!! and smart...
BS123 said:
Yup. And I said this to someone else, in another thread somewhere, I always thought it would be cool to do this in a slightly different way than conventional. Use one push/pull to split both pups. (But still keep them separate.) Use the other one to select between inside and outside.
Just a thought. I'll post a diagram if you want.
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
The dummy in the HS2 picks up very little signal. There is only a coil around the bobbin - no poles in there. Plus a shield between the coils. Now, newer versions like the virtual vintage line have slugs in there, so those coils have greater inductance. The HS2 are wired in series, but were still hotter when split. This is another indication that the dummy coil didn't add much to the signal; it only loaded the circuit.
mongrollo said:Could it be possible that the HS-3 and the HS-2 were wired in parallel? If they did so it is logical that they were hotter when "split".
BS123 you can find it out if your it is wired this way just mesuring the DC resistance of the pickup wired as is and then each of the coils separately.
I guess the dummy coil still will be able tu capture some frecuencies from the strings that will be cancelled with the ones from the hot coil. Those probable are a few, but important in end to cancel some subtles from the tone. So the tone split will be very similar but probably more detailed and complex with more "touch sensitivity". As it will be slighly hotter if it is wired in parallel and slighly lower if wired in series.
This is just a guess but, if you try to split them, please tell me if I am right!!
The dummy in the HS2 picks up very little signal. There is only a coil around the bobbin - no poles in there. Plus a shield between the coils. Now, newer versions like the virtual vintage line have slugs in there, so those coils have greater inductance. The HS2 are wired in series, but were still hotter when split. This is another indication that the dummy coil didn't add much to the signal; it only loaded the circuit.
BS123
New member
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
That would be cool.
ArtieToo said:Yup. And I said this to someone else, in another thread somewhere, I always thought it would be cool to do this in a slightly different way than conventional. Use one push/pull to split both pups. (But still keep them separate.) Use the other one to select between inside and outside.
Just a thought. I'll post a diagram if you want.
That would be cool.
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: A Splitting Question...(Tele-Related)
Ok, see if this makes sense. I'm showing humbuckers here, ('cause thats what I had in my "stockpile"), but the concept's the same: You use one switch to connect the red/white wires to the other switch. You use the "other" switch, to select between inside/outside coils.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Ok, see if this makes sense. I'm showing humbuckers here, ('cause thats what I had in my "stockpile"), but the concept's the same: You use one switch to connect the red/white wires to the other switch. You use the "other" switch, to select between inside/outside coils.
Let me know if you have any questions.