Adding a bypass indicator LED to a modded old shapeshifter

jbelden

New member
Hey y'all!

I've been looking for an answer for this for a bit, so I apologize if this has already been covered in another thread that I could not seem to find. I am just beginning with pedal building so there is a lot to learn and understand!

I cut the brown wires coming from S1C to get the rate indicator LED to be always on and ready for a tap. I don't mind the placement of the rate indicator, so i left the yellow and red leds alone and drilled a hole to accept a new bypass indicator led but i can't figure out where to put the negative end (im drawing power from the jack, ran the wire across the board, luckily no ticking)

I can get it to light up all the time by attaching it to various points on the 3pdt, but not turn off with the switch. I've been banging my head on this for a bit but am out of my depth.

Thanks for reading!
 
Re: Adding a bypass indicator LED to a modded old shapeshifter

Welcome to the forum!

Hopefully you will find an answer, as this would be a great mod for the old Shapeshifter.
 
Re: Adding a bypass indicator LED to a modded old shapeshifter

The negative end of the LED goes to ground via the footswitch. I wire my footswitch up like this. This also grounds the input of the effect when bypassed, which is good practice.

6267273f8df7dc00b2bfb596ab583b56.jpg



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Re: Adding a bypass indicator LED to a modded old shapeshifter

The negative end of the LED goes to ground via the footswitch. I wire my footswitch up like this. This also grounds the input of the effect when bypassed, which is good practice.

That's the way to do it, just follow David's schematic using that 3PDT switch and you'll be there!;)
 
Re: Adding a bypass indicator LED to a modded old shapeshifter

I would loved to have done that, but the wiring of the stock 3pdt wiring grounds to the chassis i believe, as there's only 4 wires coming to it from the circuit after cutting the two browns off

Its set up like

X--W--G
B--Y--Bl
B--J--J

X is empty, White (W) and Yellow (Y) come from the input, so im assuming one of them is input and the other is circuit in, same story with Green (G) and Blue (Bl) for output and circuit out

The B's are where the brown wires used to be, now empty, and the J's are linked together.

http://imgur.com/gallery/0ESkoyo

Don't mind the globs of solder, I've been at this for a little bit switching things back and forth trying to get lucky...
 
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