Re: Allen pole screws -double rows - why isn't every pup like that - so symmetric pre
Hi
I was looking high and low picking my last set of pickups.
And very different what version retailers keep in stock, bobbin color and pole screws.
DiMarzio at least suggest you can pick any combination ordering - if you want the allen pole screws as one, black or metal.
True: DMZ has a wider range of options you can choose from, when ordering. However, just because you can't seem to choose that much from Seymour Duncan doesn't mean that the options aren't there. It just means that, unfortunately, you have to order a pickup with the looks you desire via a retailer, store, dealer instead of directly from SD. Why this is, I do not know. That being said, you simply can choose: gold, chrome/nickel, black; hex or fillister. Even satin black. Coil colors can be chosen as well.
But some pickups like PAF - I only saw regular screws, and then just big blank flat metal surface on other row pole pieces,
You are right. But let's inject some proper terminology, ok? The regular flathead screws are called fillister screws and the 'blank flat metal surface on the other row pole pieces' is called 'slug polepieces'. And yup, that's indeed the standard to-go option for PAF style pickups and many derivatives. I'll get more into that later.
And some type pickup have only one row screws, why is that?
Does type of pole screw affect specs of pickup, or?
Does the PAF need more metal to sound right?
The part I highlighted in bold: YES. Absolutely. A pickup that's based on a PAF needs more metal in one bobbin to get that tonal PAF flavor, but I'll get more into that later.
I just like the double row allen type, looking symmetric and nice. And you can emphasize a bit towards middle between pickups if you like, so flexible too. Instead of turning pickup 180 degrees, just up pole screws.
Double row Allen type is a misnomer because there are, actually, more than one type of 'allen' screw in guitar pickups. To my count, at least four. Seymour Duncan's hex pole piece is not the same as Dimarzio, and they're both different from Bareknuckle and Lundgren. More on that later.
Did anybody order custom like from DiMarzio, can even the PAF 36th anniversary have double allen screws?
Yes, I tried to for my work but it's not possible because using two rows of hex polepieces would severely alter the tone of the pickup, making it no more a 36Th Anniversary.
You're welcome.
Now, my low-down about those polepieces as well as a word about the PAF.
PAF and P.A.F.
One term is not the same as the other. PAF is a Trademark by Dimarzio, the other is what we (
shoulduse to denote the original humbucker made by Gibson in the 1950ies. Dimarzio can slap that term, PAF, on every humbucker they feel could use that term but bares little to no resemblance to the original P.A.F.: patent applied for-humbucker. The original had a certain set of specs and deviate from that recipe and voila; no more p.a.f. The rough, basic specs were nickel-silver baseplate and cover, 42 awg wire plain enamel insulation, wound between 7.5 and 8.5K with a margin of error of approximately 0.5K, 1 row of fillister screw polepieces, 1 row of slug polepieces, maple spacer bar, retainer bar, alnico magnet (the jury is still out on the exact type but for sure alnico: likely Alnico III and V for the majority, IV should be regarded as an oddball magnet, same goes for II but that's here nor there right now).
Take Dimarzio's PAF7: fiberboard baseplate and a ceramic magnet. Say what?! That's NOT a P.A.F. But typing all those periods is annoying so most just omit those but you have to differentiate between a PAF and a P.A.F., helas.
OK.
Polepieces
You have the polepieces that can be altered in height but also that cannot be altered. The movable polepieces are: fillister screw, hex screw, allen bolt, allen cap bolt. The unmovables are things like the slugs, the square inserts in Parallel axis pickups, bars and rails etc.
Why? Because they each do different things to the final tonal result because they alter the inductance and magnetic permeability. Simply put: a LOT of iron will cause the inductance of the coil to rise. Higher inductance results in loss of highs, generally speaking but also a higher output.
The pickup designer has a certain tone in mind and by playing a balancing act of wire gauge and wire insulation , coil geometry, baseplate material, magnet type and strength and finally polepieces, he can design a pickup that sounds like what he wants it to sound like.
For example, and I'm sorry that I have to plagiarism myself:
For years, I felt the Air Norton was my 'to go' pickup. It is fat in the neck position, great for leads, but retains some clarity under high gain. It's got a lot of crunch in the bridge position: open, cutting, a bit clear but not bright and a chewy midrange for leads. Yeah, the Air Norton was my 'to go' pickup. It was just a bit boring, lacking in dynamics and was overall servicable but not great. I went on to other pickups I love but never one that kept me as engaged as the Norton.
Then I took it upon me to see what I could do with Duncan parts to get to the air norton's territory. Let's break it down.
Magnet
The AN has an alnico V magnet; I believe the 'air' technology of the air norton is there to emulate an alnico II with an A5 magnet and since I can't replicate that part I have to work around that. I'd say, use an A2 (the air technology also gives for a weaker string pull) and get shorter polepieces to lower the inductance. The weaker magnet would also allow for a lower string pull for added sustain and harmonics.
Coils
The AN has two asymmetrically wound coils, clocking in at 12.6K. I can use a Custom coil (7K) plus a screaming demon coil (5K) but I don't have that yet. I would also rather not use coils that are so severely mismatched for this round. I have used a Demon coil plus an SH6N and that yielded great results but for now, I'd stick to what I feel comfortable with. Making a hybrid isn't difficult perse, it's just a lot of work. So, I opted for a Custom coil plus a Pegasus. I now have a bit more copper on the coils than an AN but we'll see how far we can go.
Polepieces
The AN uses regular fillister head screws and slugs. Slugs, fine. No biggy there. The screws, that's a bit of a pickle. I have an Alnico II to get into the air-bucked A5 territory but I have a hunch that this still might induce too much compared to the airbucked A5. Also, an Alnico II is notorious for giving you a squishy midrange and attenuated highs and spongy lows. The Norton does not have that; not really, anyway. So... Short poles it is! Lower inductance in that particular coil (custom coil, lookin' at you, just to even out the inductances between the coils even more, if that makes sense?) so the pick attack is super-accute in the final tonal product, just like the Norton.
Tone and Final Verdict
What the actual.... This pickup is so, so, so bonkers I can't wrap my head around it. It's been such a long time since I've been surprised.
Did I succeed in my goal of making an Air Norton with Duncan parts? No.
I got a pickup that has the basic idea of the Air Norton, in it's rear view mirror. It's got much more grind than the AN, a LOT more power (oddly enough, despite having a weaker magnet and only being 0,75KOHms hotter: see? DCR doesn't tell the full picture!) but it's not like the buzzsaw-cut'n'grind of the SH6 for example. The rhythm tone is tight, aggressive even slightly percussive but never harsh: the top end cuts but never pierces, the midrange is huge (and then consider that I mid-scooped my amp, simply because I forgot to dial in a neutral tone at that moment: even then, the midrange was huge!) and the lows are so, so tight but not boomy.
If I were to make a tonal curve on a scale of 0 to 10 it'd be like this:
lows: 6
lower mids: 6
mid range: 7
upper mids: 8
highs: 8
For example, I'd value a JB like this:
lows: 5
lower mids: 6
mid range: 8
upper mids: 9
highs: 8
This custom/peg hybrid is approximately as hot as a JB but so much more aggressive and dynamically rich but without that odd upper mid spike of the JB which makes the JB so annoying and makes the JB only work in Tele's (imho ). It's not as nasal or honky as a Perpetual burn, it's more open and 'forward' than that (compare it to the mid shift on those old Boogie Mark amps, where you can place the midrange 'forwards' or 'backwards'). But it does have a vocal quality so leads, solo's jump out like crazy.
I don't know, guys, but this pickup feels like a winner to me. The Pegasus itself is too percussive, tight and slightly nasal to my taste. The custom Alnico II (custom custom) is too spongy for my taste, but this combination works immensely well. However, I have to admit, I haven't tried this in the neck positino because I matched it with a Pearly Gates-N/59N Alnico II hybrid, which is by itself an amazing pickup (glassy and clear but with a boldness and richness to the tone that works very well with the tonepot to fatten it up for thick, fat leads or clean, warm but clear and open chords with low gain).
Yeah it's a long story but this might give you some insights in how a real, professional pickup designer goes about his work and why polepieces matter.