Another Megaswitch Question
- Thread starter Mincer
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beaubrummels
Well-known member
Fender has a 5-way with two additional 5-way poles, available domestically. It's like a normal Fender 5-way with half a super switch attached. I just used this to get 5 sounds out of a single humbucker (slug, screw, parallel, hum, hum-no-tone-control). Could use half the switch to get the 3 positions; the remaining coulld be additional options or empty.
https://www.guitarpartsfactory.us/00...tch-0078776000
FWIW - I didn't notice a significant noise difference between slug and screw alone. Perhaps two pickups split at the same time is worse?
https://www.guitarpartsfactory.us/00...tch-0078776000
FWIW - I didn't notice a significant noise difference between slug and screw alone. Perhaps two pickups split at the same time is worse?
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AllHailDIO
New member
Sorry for hijacking OP's thread... But quick question.
This Goldo switch, could it do inner coils in parallel in the middle position, by any chance?
I recently put in a Megaswitch P and my guitar is VERY noisy. But it isn't a ground issue and the noise changes when I shift around... I figured it was me and was going to revisit my soldering, but after reading Artie's comments, I wonder now...
Artie
Peaveyologist
Yes, it will. Availability is the problem. (Unless you live in Europe.)
But I have an alternate solution that should work. I just gotta work out a couple details. Film@11.
AllHailDIO
New member
Yes, it will. Availability is the problem. (Unless you live in Europe.)
But I have an alternate solution that should work. I just gotta work out a couple details. Film@11.
Good to know but yes, too bad shipping from EU is an absolute mauling on the wallet.
And thanks! You're the man :beerchug:
eclecticsynergy
New member
I think flipping the mag in one of your pickups should make the inner and outer coil combinations humbucking.
PRSs which offer those coil pairings use a reversed polarity bridge pickup.
AllHailDIO
New member
Thanks for the heads-up but I have already flipped a magnet. The noise also occurs in all positions.
Very possible it could had been my soldering. I will have to revisit, and also hear Artie's alternate solution.
Thanks!
I think I might take a chance on that European 4P3T switch. If I do that, and I want the middle position to be hum-cancelling, I could deal with the middle position being the screw coil of the neck with the stud coil of the bridge, I believe this can be done without having the bridge humbucker rp/rp, right? And if that switch does actually arrive, it will avoid the situation Artie described, right?
Clint 55
OH THE DOUBLE THICK GLAZE!
That's the easiest solution and it sounds good. If you want outer coils plus hum cancelling you flip the mag, black and green goes to your split connection to split to the screw, then put white to hot and red to main ground.
I might also suggest a master spin a split as your 3rd knob instead of the delux switch. It would be 2 things to control instead of only a switch, but is still easy to control and it adds tones to every position. You get fully split from neck, both, and bridge, and also fatter splitish tones as well.
I might also suggest a master spin a split as your 3rd knob instead of the delux switch. It would be 2 things to control instead of only a switch, but is still easy to control and it adds tones to every position. You get fully split from neck, both, and bridge, and also fatter splitish tones as well.
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Artie
Peaveyologist
I want to clarify something on the noise issue. It's not a result of splitting, per se. It's a result of hanging the pup out, unterminated, on the "hot" side of the circuit. (See my post #7.) In the old days, an AM antenna was just a coil of wire glued to the back of the radio cabinet. In more modern days, it's still a coil of wire, but wound on a ferrite bar. (The magnet.) It isn't an absolute that you'll get RF noise. It just isn't a good practice if avoidable. And it is.
P.S. I didn't mean for my idea and/or solution to be so mysterious. I'm simply talking about installing a nylon / teflon / delrin (or similar plastic), spacer at either end of the lever, between it and the wafer mounting post to limit the travel of the standard 5-way Superswitch. Low tech, but should work great and be somewhat economical since 5-way SS's are readily available. It also makes the switch "short throw." Great for European sports cars. Should work fine.
I'm doing my first prototype today.
P.S. I didn't mean for my idea and/or solution to be so mysterious. I'm simply talking about installing a nylon / teflon / delrin (or similar plastic), spacer at either end of the lever, between it and the wafer mounting post to limit the travel of the standard 5-way Superswitch. Low tech, but should work great and be somewhat economical since 5-way SS's are readily available. It also makes the switch "short throw." Great for European sports cars. Should work fine.
I'm doing my first prototype today.
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Jack_TriPpEr
New member
I am pretty sure it should be Red wire that goes to Hot, and White wire that would goto Ground. A slug coil is already setup to have a separate wind direction than a screw coil, so there is no need to try and "force" a reverse wind when pairing one with the other, if that is why you had the 2 wires reversed. If a pup were wired that way, the result would be that pup being Out Of Phase with the other pup.
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Interesting. I do want to keep this even simpler with master volume and master tone. And the 3 sounds I use the most. Push/pull pots are clumsy, push/pull are flimsy so I knocked them out, too. The other option is my usual Do It All wiring.
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
Yes and yes.
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
Just as an additional option for altering a 5 way superswitch to work for you: wire Position 2 the same as Position 1, and wire Position 4 the same as Position 5.
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
... or if you find it more ergonomically pleasing, wire Postions 2 and 4 the same as Position 3.
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
The more I think about the last suggestion (Positions 2, 3 and 4 all as the same Both Coiltsplits setting), the more I like it for on-the-fly ease. You either put the blade-switch all the way forward for Neck Only, or all the way back for Bridge Only. Anything else is Both Coilsplits. Seems very user friendly.
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
And if you just "absolutely need" to use a normal 3 way blade, you *could* still make it work without hanging Hot signal open on the coilsplits, by using a S1 Switch (push-push) to be the Both Coilsplits tone in an On/Off fashion. It would be wired to override/bypass the 3 way switch when its "on", so you can still easily change from Neck Only or Bridge Only w just one physical motion, depending on what position you leave the 3 way blade switch in. Very similar to how a Master Series/Parallel switch is wired.
Here you have a choice of what you want middle position of the 3 way blade switch to be. Both full humbuckers in parallel? Duplicate Bridge only position 1? Duplicate Neck only Position 3? etc.
Here you have a choice of what you want middle position of the 3 way blade switch to be. Both full humbuckers in parallel? Duplicate Bridge only position 1? Duplicate Neck only Position 3? etc.
