I would've never thought of this... Cool idea!
Anybody NOT prefer treble bleed?
- Thread starter alex1fly
- Start date
I would've never thought of this... Cool idea!
Ascension
Well-known member
Same here with most guitars. However with a fat guitar a treble bleed can be really cool.My Carvin DC 600 for example with the C 22B and J set up really works with the treble bleed. My DC 127 with the PB Jazz on the other hand was a disaster with it. Depends on the set up. Most of the time I want a guitar to get darker as I roll off the volume but not always. I have guitars set up both ways.
Bill Dennis
New member
I have tried treble bleeds several times over the years. They have yet to make it to the end of the day without getting ripped out. Do they keep treble as you roll down? Yes. Do they completely screw up the sound when full up? YES. It makes the sound very, very harsh. I use the 50's wiring on most things. Strats, LP's, Tele's, it doesn't matter. It works in all of them
Dave Locher
New member
I tried them a couple times on a couple guitars and never liked it. Then I had a epiphany and put one on the NECK volume on my main guitar. I like it there, a lot.
Ayrton
New member
Where is this pulled from?
Sirion
Well-known member
Last edited:
The original idea was from our own Frank Fablo decade ago or so posted on jemsite I think, google showed it somewhere on ashbass mods. Theres a giant thread with regards to it on lespaul forum but I have not seen much talk about it on our duncan forums.
Its actually very good because it allows to darken the sound with the treble bleed which otherwise isnt possible normally, as in a proper modern wiring that can sound darker or brighter with the volume rolled down using the tone control.
quadquadquadquad
New member
On the second pot, is everything grounded to the case?
Juanhanglo
Active member
I really like treble bleeds. Whatever ibanez uses on their HH guitars is perfect for me.
Ten is full on as normal.
Down to 5/6 it gets warmer.
below 5 it starts getting brighter.
Its a bit funky when playing clean, but it's when i use it with high gain pedals that it shows it's worth.
My craziest is in my tele. Harmonic design vintage plus into 500k pots/.022cap.
Below 9, it starts getting bright. By 5 it is super bright and thin. This is a cool feature because i can "fine tune" the thickness of the tone.
Even better is that no matter how low i drop the volume, and no matter how thin and bright it gets, i can get back to a normal sound by working the tone control.
I am so used to playing with bleeds, that the dull sound a non bleed equipped guitar has is unusable to me. Excess treble can be cut with the tone knob, but once the treble is gone (no bleed) you can't spin a knob to get it back
Ten is full on as normal.
Down to 5/6 it gets warmer.
below 5 it starts getting brighter.
Its a bit funky when playing clean, but it's when i use it with high gain pedals that it shows it's worth.
My craziest is in my tele. Harmonic design vintage plus into 500k pots/.022cap.
Below 9, it starts getting bright. By 5 it is super bright and thin. This is a cool feature because i can "fine tune" the thickness of the tone.
Even better is that no matter how low i drop the volume, and no matter how thin and bright it gets, i can get back to a normal sound by working the tone control.
I am so used to playing with bleeds, that the dull sound a non bleed equipped guitar has is unusable to me. Excess treble can be cut with the tone knob, but once the treble is gone (no bleed) you can't spin a knob to get it back
Ayrton
New member
Found it, quote from Ashbass
”In the diagram, the yellow wire is the input to the pot and the red wire is the output from the pot. In Frank's example an Ibanez type guitar is used and the input is coming from the switch--the pickup hot goes to the switch first and then the switch to the pot. On a les paul the pickup hot goes first to the pot and then the pot output goes to the switch. In both, the middle lug of the pot is the output lug and that is the one used for the mod. As I understand the classic treble bleed, for this mod using resistor with the capacitor is not needed. The resistor was used in the typical treble bleed to even out the pot's taper. With the falbo mod a resistor in series with the cap will not do anything for pot taper.
The mod works on the output of the volume pot as fed by a tone pot. Note: "a" tone pot. If you try to use two tone pots connecting to the same volume pot, at any time both tone pots will be live and affect the vol pot together. This is probably not what you want to do“.
No, its an old drawing. Here's a better one using a resistor+cap in series treble bleed setup,
BluesMan335
New member
I finally tried treble bleeds several years ago. The Kinman seems to be the best for me, as it doesn't get overly bright as the volume is rolled down, and it doesn't mess up the sweep. Now it's mandatory on my guitars. I never liked the tone getter darker as I turned the volume down. I want to maintain my tone, just not as loud.
alex1fly
Well-known member
So I think I've been confusing treble bleed with 50s wiring. Both keep treble as you turn the volume down, but treble bleed is more extreme, is this correct?
Does anyone know if this wiring is treble bleed, 50s, or neither? https://d159anurvk4929.cloudfront.ne...schematics.pdf
Does anyone know if this wiring is treble bleed, 50s, or neither? https://d159anurvk4929.cloudfront.ne...schematics.pdf
Treble bleeds can sound extreme if the values are not suited for the system. A single 2nF cap across the volume pot will give extreme treble when the volume is rolled down but lower that cap value down to 180pF and the change will be much subtle in comparison.
The PRS schematic in the link is modern wiring with a simple treble bleed cap across the volume pot.
If the tone control is connected to the center lug of the volume pot, you have 50s wiring. If the tone control is connected to left lug of the volume pot(the right lug is grounded to the pot casing), you get modern wiring. How the cap on the tone pot is wired doesn't matter.
