APS-1 Alnico Pro II
- Thread starter sm6sif
- Start date
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: APS-1 Alnico Pro II
It should have a sticker on the bottom that just says "APS1". There may be another letter too, for someone's initial. The DC resistance should be 6.4k. That assumes that you have the pup removed from the guitar. If its still installed in the guitar, the reading will be less. Also, its possible that if you have an old, uncalibrated meter, it might be off that far.
Artie
Oh yeah . . . and welcome to the forum.
It should have a sticker on the bottom that just says "APS1". There may be another letter too, for someone's initial. The DC resistance should be 6.4k. That assumes that you have the pup removed from the guitar. If its still installed in the guitar, the reading will be less. Also, its possible that if you have an old, uncalibrated meter, it might be off that far.
Artie
Oh yeah . . . and welcome to the forum.
ZxCv
New member
Zhangliqun
Questionologist
Re: APS-1 Alnico Pro II
Why IS the reading always lower when it's in the guitar?
P.S....
POST #800
Why IS the reading always lower when it's in the guitar?
P.S....
POST #800
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: APS-1 Alnico Pro II
I probably should have clarified . . . I meant if you tried to measure it without taking the guitar apart. Like if you measured it through the guitar cable. Then you'ld have the volume pot in parallel with the pup, which would make the reading a smidgen lower.
Artie
Zhangliqun said:
I probably should have clarified . . . I meant if you tried to measure it without taking the guitar apart. Like if you measured it through the guitar cable. Then you'ld have the volume pot in parallel with the pup, which would make the reading a smidgen lower.
Artie
Mahakam Blues
New member
Re: APS-1 Alnico Pro II
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and this is my first posting. So here goes.
I have three APS-1 pups, all marked SD 2 93. One has a 1R sticker, while the other two have a 1C sticker. What is the difference between them? Is it a matter of reverse winding? In fact, I guess my question should be : which goes where, in terms of Bridge/Mid/Neck position?
Actually, years ago, I traded these pups for a set of Texas Specials and the way I rigged them was with 1R in the Neck position. But now I'm having doubts : was I correct ? Any help would be welcome.
Best regards to you all & keep pickin'
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and this is my first posting. So here goes.
I have three APS-1 pups, all marked SD 2 93. One has a 1R sticker, while the other two have a 1C sticker. What is the difference between them? Is it a matter of reverse winding? In fact, I guess my question should be : which goes where, in terms of Bridge/Mid/Neck position?
Actually, years ago, I traded these pups for a set of Texas Specials and the way I rigged them was with 1R in the Neck position. But now I'm having doubts : was I correct ? Any help would be welcome.
Best regards to you all & keep pickin'
Re: APS-1 Alnico Pro II
welcome to the forum!!
the old identification system is lacking in some areas, like both the ssl1 and aps1 just have stickers that say 1*, with the * being some ones initial. the new system is much better.
the 6.4k is probably an aps, the 5.8 is kinda low and may be an aps but maybe not. do the pole pieces, bobbins, and wire all look exactly the same? that 5.8k could make a great middle or neck pup depending on your tastes.
mahakam if you have a meter i would check the resistance on all three and put the one with the highest dc resistance in the bridge. the "R" and "C" are probably just the initial of the person who made the pup
welcome to the forum!!
the old identification system is lacking in some areas, like both the ssl1 and aps1 just have stickers that say 1*, with the * being some ones initial. the new system is much better.
the 6.4k is probably an aps, the 5.8 is kinda low and may be an aps but maybe not. do the pole pieces, bobbins, and wire all look exactly the same? that 5.8k could make a great middle or neck pup depending on your tastes.
mahakam if you have a meter i would check the resistance on all three and put the one with the highest dc resistance in the bridge. the "R" and "C" are probably just the initial of the person who made the pup
Mahakam Blues
New member
Re: APS-1 Alnico Pro II
Thanks for your quick answer, Jeremy. I've been trying to figure that one out for days now, taking the pups to countless guitar dealers in Paris (fortunately they're all in the same area : Pigalle) and nobody could give me an clear answer... until my daughter mentionned "why don't you check out Duncan's website?" Now, how come I didn't think of that myself ? Guess I'm still stuck in the 70's!
Following your advice, I did measure the DC resistance on all three pups. They read respectively 6.20 / 6.27 and 6.37 kOhms. So the highest value should go to the bridge. Now, what about the other too? Lowest value to the neck or in the middle?
On the other hand, the way they were mounted on the scratch plate (with the wires cut to length) I have the 6.20k in bridge position, 6.37k in the middle and 6.27k in the neck. Does it make much of a difference if I leave it as such or is it better to solder a bit of wire at the end of the bridge pup's lead and move it to the neck position ? (talking about neck, I hope I'm not being too much of a pain in yours
nder: )
Thanks again for your help and all those great pick-ups you give us. I have a set of Antiquities on both my Tellys and they sound just fabulous !
Thanks for your quick answer, Jeremy. I've been trying to figure that one out for days now, taking the pups to countless guitar dealers in Paris (fortunately they're all in the same area : Pigalle) and nobody could give me an clear answer... until my daughter mentionned "why don't you check out Duncan's website?" Now, how come I didn't think of that myself ? Guess I'm still stuck in the 70's!
Following your advice, I did measure the DC resistance on all three pups. They read respectively 6.20 / 6.27 and 6.37 kOhms. So the highest value should go to the bridge. Now, what about the other too? Lowest value to the neck or in the middle?
On the other hand, the way they were mounted on the scratch plate (with the wires cut to length) I have the 6.20k in bridge position, 6.37k in the middle and 6.27k in the neck. Does it make much of a difference if I leave it as such or is it better to solder a bit of wire at the end of the bridge pup's lead and move it to the neck position ? (talking about neck, I hope I'm not being too much of a pain in yours
nder: )Thanks again for your help and all those great pick-ups you give us. I have a set of Antiquities on both my Tellys and they sound just fabulous !
