Better Bridge Parts

darthphineas

New member
anyone here tried replacing stock bridge parts with better parts? typcially, that would mean going with the bigger brass block upgrades that are out there. but it looks like there are other and simpler options as well. I have Floyds (or licensed version on all my guitars) but some of this translates to Strats as well.


for example:

brass trem claw - I am trying one in a Kramer NightSwan right now. definitely better material than the stock claw. not quite the same as replacing the block, but every little bit helps.

brass screws for a trem claw - something I thought of when I saw some places including brass screws for those brass trem stoppers. I find these at Home Depot for less than $2 / pair. I also replaced the stock screws with brass ones on that NightSwan. probably not worth breaking down your entire setup, but since I was already replacing the claw anyway....

stronger trem screws - I've been finding stainless steel screws. harder than those little black ones that come with a Floyd. I can screw things down a little harder and not have to worry about stripping the allen head. not much increase in the way of tone, other than a more solid contact. I have found these online for the saddle screws, locking nut screws, and the long string lock screws. a bolt and electrical supply around the corner actually carries the stainless steel screws to mount the bridge plate to the sustain block (listed as "M5- .8x12 flat socket cap ss") - once again, a stronger material for around $.35 each... where places online ask about $2.99 for a set of 3.

trem springs - this is something I'm not totally sold on and wonder if it's part snake oil. I see regular springs. I see boutique name-brand springs. I see noiseless springs. I see heavy duty springs. there are a zillion guitars out there with springs in that trem. just how many of them really need different springs?

big blocks - I've recently started to swear by upgrading to a bigger brass block. you can find them for Floyd type trems and for Strat type trems. I found this guy (hoockey) on ebay that consistenly sells them for about $10 less than the 'brand name' websites. there are also tungsten and titanium blocks, but that's not as cost effective for me (as a dude with more than 1 guitar). relatively easy to swap out. more sustain and more resonance. I can hear it acoustically, even before plugging it in. harmonics jump out louder and easier. if I could only pick one bridge part to replace, this would be it.

titanium - have some titanium string lock blocks that go in the saddle to lock the strings in. have deal with Floyds since '85 I've seen my share of cracked and expanded saddle lock blocks. that's all I seem to find with these. I put them in after I'd installed a brass block, so I can't tell a lot of difference. I do think the saddle will crack before the little blocks do. lol! what looks really cool is the set of titanium saddles, but geez they are as much or more than some quality guitars.

nut parts - there are brass nuts and stainless steel nuts out there for non-locking trems. mine are all locking, so I have no experience with this. I would be interested in seeing an option for a locking nut made out of more resonant material as well. brass? stainless steel? tungsten? other? even just the nut locking blocks would be great.

another advantage I've had while tweaking parts on bridges is it allows the opportunity to give each guitar a fresh set up.


so I guess I'm asking as much as sharing... who else tweaks their bridges and what do you do to tweak them? what do you do? where do you find your stuff?
 
Re: Better Bridge Parts

IMHO, G&L makes the best quality bass bridge out there. I have put them on several Fender basses. $80 a piece straight from G&L, but worth it on an instrument that is used heavily.

One gripe about them: They don't have the adjustable mufflers, like my '77 Music Man does. If they had that, they'd be perfect. As it is, I have to wedge and tape my mufflers on.

I have also replaced cheesy Strat bridges with proper Fender bridges. That alone makes a nice difference in the solidity of the setup, which affects intonation, and tuning.

I don't really buy into the "every little detail changes your tone" philosophy, but I do like to have solid, well-built, and serviceable hardware.
 
Last edited:
Re: Better Bridge Parts

Graphtech Saddles ... swear by them for Vintage Style Strat Trems
 
Re: Better Bridge Parts

with regard to the stainless steel screws, I went back to the bolt company near me and they also have stainless steel screws that are exact matches for the saddle mounting screws and the nut clamping screws. they looked at the string lock screws and said that it was something that'd have to be taken to a machine shop to get the end worked down that way (so as to fit inside the socket of the string block).

in the end, I spend just under $15.00 for the same amount of stainless steel screws for my FRs that it would've cost over $240.00 (before S&H) if I were to have bought them online from a company that sells these screws for this specific purpose.

also, I took original screws off an original (real) Floyd Rose in there to confirm the size and fit. so these were not aftermarket screws or screws off of a licensed Floyd. the people there said the FR nut clamp screws I took in were rated as being stronger than stainless steel screws. FR being grade A, where SS are grade 2 (which is a hardware grade steel and should be able to handle 33-55k psi... grade 8 is the strongest). the only advanage to SS is that they won't rust. there were no markings on the saddle screws or the string lock screws to confirm their rating, so one could assume they are the same material.

the original block mounting screws are rated at 10.9 and should be able to handle 120k psi. the stainless steel block mounting screws they had were A2-70 and rated at 102k psi.




but, if you're interested the sizes are as follows:

Block Mounting Screws
M5 - .8x12 flat socket cap

Saddle Mount Screws
M3 - .5X8 socket cap
(the place I went to only had .5x10, but it's not a problem)

Nut Clamping Screws
M4 - .7X8 socket cap

String Lock Screws
M4 - .7x40 socket cap
(first 18mm threaded)




I'd like to see if I could find these in titanium or tungsten.
 
Back
Top