The pots supplied in the blackouts set are slightly bigger on the tread than my old ones. Which means making the holes in the body of the guitar bigger, which i really don't want to do since it has just been painted. Is it possible to drill the hole out without chipping the edges? The cavity is really small so i need pots the same size as the ones supplied (mini pots??) the Stew Mac 25k pots are too big in overall size but the thread size is correct.. any suggestions?
Blackouts pots are too big for holes in the body....
- Thread starter mordavia
- Start date
Blue_Fingers_Jay
New member
Re: Blackouts pots are too big for holes in the body....
Welcome to the forum.
How big is the difference?
That happened to me once, but the difference was small so here's what I did:
Wraped very fine sandpaper (the kind used for wet sanding about 600 grid) around a pencil or anything the size of the hole and enlarged the hole that way, if needed just change to something thicker than a pencil.
This way you won't chip the paint however it's slow and tedious work, especially if the thread of the pot is alot larger than the hole.
Welcome to the forum.
How big is the difference?
That happened to me once, but the difference was small so here's what I did:
Wraped very fine sandpaper (the kind used for wet sanding about 600 grid) around a pencil or anything the size of the hole and enlarged the hole that way, if needed just change to something thicker than a pencil.
This way you won't chip the paint however it's slow and tedious work, especially if the thread of the pot is alot larger than the hole.
Robert S.
Super Moderator
frankfalbo
In Fluence Y'all
Re: Blackouts pots are too big for holes in the body....
http://www.hobbytool.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=28
This is the right tool for the job. You can get the cheapest one you can find, (this one is less than $5) because you're just cutting wood. More expensive ones are stronger and sharper for metal, and for precision wood holes and tapers, sometimes customized for Violin tuners, bridge pins, etc. But they're not necessary for this job, or any shallow hole enlargement in wood, or plastic. (pickguards)
http://www.hobbytool.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=28
This is the right tool for the job. You can get the cheapest one you can find, (this one is less than $5) because you're just cutting wood. More expensive ones are stronger and sharper for metal, and for precision wood holes and tapers, sometimes customized for Violin tuners, bridge pins, etc. But they're not necessary for this job, or any shallow hole enlargement in wood, or plastic. (pickguards)
hamerfan
Well-known member
Re: Blackouts pots are too big for holes in the body....
I dont like the reamer for a job on finished guitars, they are quite cool for raw wood. Since the forces are along the laquered top it could chip. I am normally using the fine cut round file and only do downstrokes!
I dont like the reamer for a job on finished guitars, they are quite cool for raw wood. Since the forces are along the laquered top it could chip. I am normally using the fine cut round file and only do downstrokes!
frankfalbo
In Fluence Y'all
Re: Blackouts pots are too big for holes in the body....
Really? I've never had a chip out from a reamer, from cheap dull ones to fancy precision ones. Maybe I'm just going slower, I don't know. I usually hit it from both sides. I ream the top just to where it will accept the thread diameter, then I ream it from the back until the whole thing goes through. Also, when I get a chance, I countersink all the holes. So if you countersink before you ream, the paint is already shaved away from the diameter of the hole.
Really? I've never had a chip out from a reamer, from cheap dull ones to fancy precision ones. Maybe I'm just going slower, I don't know. I usually hit it from both sides. I ream the top just to where it will accept the thread diameter, then I ream it from the back until the whole thing goes through. Also, when I get a chance, I countersink all the holes. So if you countersink before you ream, the paint is already shaved away from the diameter of the hole.
