Bridge advice for Ibbys

Inflames626

New member
Hi all,
I'm more of a Jackson guy but looking at some Ibanezes, especially if they're Floyded Destroyers or Icemans.

I've stayed away from Ibanez mainly because of their tendency to use proprietary designs. It's my understanding that a lot of people love their original Edge trems, but successive generations have been less well received.

I'm looking for something I can put on a mid priced guitar that will stay in tune and flutter well. I understand that Gotoh makes replacement Ibanez trems. To my knowledge, success has been mixed retrofitting OFRs and OFR Pros onto Ibanezes due to differences between the OFR and Edge bridge designs.

I've also wanted to try out their Edge Zero trem, which would seem to combine the best aspects of an OFR and a Kahler.

Anyway, I'd appreciate advice. Thanks.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

The original Edge and Lo Pro Edge trems (made by Gotoh) are highly regarded. They tend to be only played by people who own an Ibanez, and because of their dimensions, aren't a direct drop-in for other Floyd derived trems, unless we're talking non-recessed (recommended post spacing is same as OFR).

The Edge was designed with the intention of overcoming what in the 80s people (and the honchos at Ibanez) saw as a shortcoming of the Original Floyd - thinner/brighter sound. Hence the heavy, zinc alloy (they call it 'hard zinc') construction with hardened steel knives. 1986 was the first year and the design has barely changed, main addition was the addition of locking posts, a slight change in the bends of the trem arm and shorter block due to recessed mounting in 1987.

The design change happened in 2003, with the Edge Pro - flatter profile, plastic string ferrules etc. There were problems, and people complained about the dropping of locking posts. Some servicing was required to get it 'up to spec', like addition of locking posts, and posts which weren't overly pinched, which contributed to tuning problems due to the inability of the trem to return to zero. These things were eventually ironed out. I've never played the EP and derivatives, though the introduction of derivatives on MIK/MII guitars was a step up from the antecedent TRS bridges.

The Edge was reintroduced in 2010, at first on signature models only like the Jem, UV and JS. Since then it's made its way back to other Prestige level instruments.

The Zero trems were introduced in 2003, with the ZR, and since then the Edge Zero has appeared. One pro of these is that they come with an intonation tool to take the headache out of set ups. The ZR, of course, pivots on ball bearings; and the EZ is regular knife edge. In 2014, the ZPS system was dumped due to a patent infringement, so everything that came with the ZR2 and EZ (gracing MIJ guitars) was changed to the Edge and Lo Pro; while ZR1 and EZ2 guitars (MII, Premium) now just lack the ZPS system and have the old standard claw/spring arrangement. I don't have any experience with these but one thing I do wonder about is the small block the pre-2014 bridges have due to the ZPS and the effect this has on sustain.

So, I have an original Edge (first year) on 2 guitars and it's rock solid. On one of them the only thing I changed was the intonation screws to stainless steel; it has plenty of wear and tear but shows no sign of impaired function. The other came from a guitar that probably sat under someone's bed for nearly 3 decades. I'm not such a heavy trem user these days, but like it to be there for hassle free performance when I use it for what it was designed.

A lot of people who own older MIK guitars that come stock with the TRS bridges have upgraded them to OFR or Gotoh Floyd successfully, as there's no routing modification required.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

Thanks much.

If I understand you correctly, the OFR Pro will not fit on Ibbys.

I've almost come to expect OFR Pros instead of OFRs. Most of my import Jacksons over the past 15-20 years have gone almost exclusively to low profile bridges without the long saddle screws sticking out the back.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

Also, I thought the Gotohs were more similar to the Edges than an OFR, with rounded saddles and the like.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

Basically, I want to know which Ibanez bridge I should look for if I want to upgrade a less expensive axe. It looks like I'll want replacements for the Edge and Lo Pro Edge, but not any of the successive Edge numberings or the Edge Pro.

I wanted to try the ZR line because I wanted the smoother action of a Kahler, but I worried it would move too smoothly to flutter well.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

Ibby bridges are, as a rule, not direct drop-in for Floyds and even other Ibby routes.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

I was hoping I could find a Gotoh Edge or Lo Pro Edge equivalent, since I don't think they sell original ones unless they are pulled off OEM.

Don't really like Ibbys enough to shell out for a Prestige or something with the best hardware. And to my understanding DiMarzios that come with Ibbys are two conductor.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

You can buy an Edge and Lo Pro as an aftermarket part, new ones are quite expensive; best to go used, you can usually find one in good nick for $100-150.

This is the Gotoh Floyd. As you can see, it's more similar to an OFR. Has a stock brass block and locking posts. Drops into OFR routes.
chrome-floydrose.jpg



Regarding the OFR Pro, I don't know whether it'll fit an Ibanez Edge/Lo Pro; it depends on how long the tail where the fine tuners are is in comparison. Regular OFR fits Edge/Lo Pro route, iirc.
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

Thanks Ashurbanipal.

So if I understand you right, the Ibby bridges I want to keep are Edges and Lo Pros, or I want to buy bridges based on Edge and Lo Pro specs, whereas the Edge II/III/TRS, etc., are considered inferior bridges in terms of quality, right?
 
Re: Bridge advice for Ibbys

^^ Essentially. Edge Pro II, Edge III and TRS 2 come on MIK/MII instruments. Though they might be ok initially, they don't have the longevity (softer alloys etc.).
 
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