Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

[CTN]

This is my task list for my eventual SG carved top build...I think I have pretty much everything in more or less the right sequence, but I'd like another perspective on whether or not this makes sense seeing as I'm kinda new to the whole carved top/set neck construction style. Mostly I wanna make sure that the sequence of steps is correct.

I'll be using a pre-radiused and slotted fretboard so those steps aren't in this list.

Order of Construction

1 Draw centerlines and shapes on all woods (body, top, neck, fretboard)
2 Routing of control and wiring cavities
3 Joint and glue bookmatched top
4 Glue top to body
5 Cut body outline
6 Cut neck and headstock profile
7 Rout mortise for neck
8 Cut and fit neck tenon
9 Rout truss rod channel and access
10 Place truss rod and glue filler strip & fretboard
11 Glue headstock veneer
12 Inlay headstock
13 Cut headstock shape and volute
14 Cut neck/fretboard taper
15 Glue nut
16 Fretting
17 Carve neck back
18 Shape body top carve
19 Drill control holes
20 Rout/Drill pickup and bridge/tailpiece mounting cavities
21 Cut/rout neck and pickup planes on top
22 Glue neck
23 level, crown and polish frets
24 Finish sand body and neck
25 Mask off fretboard and maple top
26 Grainfill mahogany, remove excess, sand when dry
27 Mask mahogany and natural maple faux-binding
28 Stain maple
29 Remove all masking (except fretboard)
30 Apply sealer
31 Clearcoat, level, repeat
32 Cure
33 Buff
34 Final assembly
35 Adjust neck relief
36 Adjust action, and pickup height, nut slots if required
37 ROCK OUT!!!

 

[ItsaBass]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

I got sort of lost reading the whole list, so I will just point out the first three things I noticed that I might change:

1. I would rout the control cavities after cutting the blank to shape, and after drilling the holes for the pots and switch. I would prefer to have a completely flat surface to guide the router when cutting the body outline. And drilling the holes for the controls into the full thickness of the body blank, and then routing out the control cavity, would make for a cleaner looking cavity with less change of blowout or splintering when drilling.

2. I would inlay the headstock overlay before gluing it on. What if you glue it on, and then screw up the inlay? Then you've got a screwed up headstock overlay that is glued in place.

3. I would bevel the frets before applying the finish, but I would not level, crown, dress, or polish the frets until the very end.

 

[Funkfingers]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

I would leave fitting the nut until after the fret work is complete. (The nut impedes the movement of the fret stone.)

Also, I am not a fan of volutes. On the other hand, I am even less of a fan of snapped headstocks.

 

[CTN]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

I got sort of lost reading the whole list, so I will just point out the first three things I noticed that I might change:

1. I would rout the control cavities after cutting the blank to shape, and after drilling the holes for the pots and switch. I would prefer to have a completely flat surface to guide the router when cutting the body outline. And drilling the holes for the controls into the full thickness of the body blank, and then routing out the control cavity, would make for a cleaner looking cavity with less change of blowout or splintering when drilling.

Hmm, true...although I really would prefer to carve the top before it has any cavities or holes going through it... I see what you're saying though.. Once the top is carved though, I could drill the mounting holes before routing the control cavity.

2. I would inlay the headstock overlay before gluing it on. What if you glue it on, and then screw up the inlay? Then you've got a screwed up headstock overlay that is glued in place.

hahaha very very true. Makes perfect sense.

3. I would bevel the frets before applying the finish, but I would not level, crown, dress, or polish the frets until the very end.

I would leave fitting the nut until after the fret work is complete. (The nut impedes the movement of the fret stone.)

I think these two things go hand in hand sorta...I think I'll move all the fretwork until after the finishing process. The good thing is that since this is an SG and not an LP, I should have much better access to the upper frets on both sides of the fretboard to shape the fret ends.

Also, I am not a fan of volutes. On the other hand, I am even less of a fan of snapped headstocks.

I don't mind volutes at all, as long as they don't extend past the nut towards the first fret.

thanks fellas! keep the suggestions coming!

 

[Myaccount876]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

I would glue the neck on after I am finished with the routing, shaping, drilling for the neck. Then I'd glue it in, rout/drill the body, finish it, install hardware, frets, then nut, level/crown/dress frets, string up, action, and play.

 

[jacksontrader]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

When do you rub your junk on it? LOL Sounds like you have a good start.

 

[CTN]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

I would glue the neck on after I am finished with the routing, shaping, drilling for the neck. Then I'd glue it in, rout/drill the body, finish it, install hardware, frets, then nut, level/crown/dress frets, string up, action, and play.

Yeah that makes sense too, especially for the pickup routs

When do you rub your junk on it? LOL Sounds like you have a good start.

lol I think i will do that after the Rocking Out step

 

[ItsaBass]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

"My bad." I missed that fact that you will be arching the top.

 

[crusty philtrum]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

INSTALL GROUND WIRE FROM CONTROL CAVITY TO BRIDGE OR TAILPIECE.



easily forgotten, a pain to resolve. Insert it into your list, in capital letters.

 

[CTN]

Re: Builder dudes, is anything missing from here?

lol good call, thanks Crusty