Compressor Pedal Review

Spirit of 76

New member
Wife got me the JHS Series 3 Compressor for Christmas and I really like it.

I wanted a compressor because I felt that with my gear, notes (especially higher notes) were decaying just a little sooner than I wanted so I was looking to increase sustain.

This pedal does that perfectly, so mission accomplished for what I wanted.

But it is really well built (sturdy metal housing; not some cheap plastic junk), it's slightly smaller than a normal sized pedal but it's certainly not a mini. And it's made in the USA so you can't beat that.

Plus these Series 3 pedals are all $99, so it's decently priced for a well made, brand new pedal.

It also has a brightness switch that pushes up the mids and highs (with distortion or fuzz, it kinda gives you a Boston-ish sound). The brightness switch also sounds good on a clean tone if you are looking for that higher pitched sound.

My only complaint is that it doesn't sound good on a clean tone; since it's 'compressing' the sound it really flattens out the clean tone quite a bit if you are not using the brightness switch, but hey, that's what its suppose to do.

Anyway I give it a 5 of 5 because it (a) did exactly what I wanted, (b) it's well made, and (c) affordably priced.
 

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Nice, I bet thats a winner.

What I find to be the primary difference between the sub $100 and above $100/150ish compressors (until you get into the very high end pedal compressors where there are serval sonic differences/abilities -like a Greer Lamplighter or Origin Cali76) is the signal to noise ratio on the makeup gain output circuit... the cheaper compressors generally cannot be run above unity (sometimes even at unity) without adding inherent noise -like if you want a boost. whereas the most expensive ones are super quiet adding 5-10db above unity on the back end.

Good news is most people only want unity through a compressor, so even the inexpensive ones will do the job pretty well.

Because that pedals sits in the middle price point I'd be curious to know how the noise floor is if you boost above unity on output

-because it's a JHS I suspect it's pretty good.
 
Nice, I bet thats a winner.

What I find to be the primary difference between the sub $100 and above $100/150ish compressors (until you get into the very high end pedal compressors where there are serval sonic differences/abilities -like a Greer Lamplighter or Origin Cali76) is the signal to noise ratio on the makeup gain output circuit... the cheaper compressors generally cannot be run above unity (sometimes even at unity) without adding inherent noise -like if you want a boost. whereas the most expensive ones are super quiet adding 5-10db above unity on the back end.

Good news is most people only want unity through a compressor, so even the inexpensive ones will do the job pretty well.

Because that pedals sits in the middle price point I'd be curious to know how the noise floor is if you boost above unity on output

-because it's a JHS I suspect it's pretty good.

So far, I haven't noticed any noise issues with this pedal but if I do I'll let you know.
 
Nice. Been curious about the JHS stuff. I'm not in the market for a compressor but sounds like this one does the trick. I picked up a Keeley 4-knob Compressor earlier this year and love it. It's the only compressor that I've been happy with.
 
You know, if you turn that attack knob ALLLLLL the way to the right, it will let a lot of your attack slip through on clean.

You should have got a compressor with a Blend knob. Because you really wanted a sustainer, not a compressor.
 
Nice. Been curious about the JHS stuff. I'm not in the market for a compressor but sounds like this one does the trick. I picked up a Keeley 4-knob Compressor earlier this year and love it. It's the only compressor that I've been happy with.

I have the JHS Muffuletta Fuzz and I really love one as well. I benched my EHX Big Muff Pi/Tone Wicker over it (and that EHX is a great sounding pedal in my opinion)
 
You know, if you turn that attack knob ALLLLLL the way to the right, it will let a lot of your attack slip through on clean.

You should have got a compressor with a Blend knob. Because you really wanted a sustainer, not a compressor.

Ah I didn't know that (this is my first compressor). I had been reading a little bit and assumed a Sustainer and Compressor to be roughly the same thing.

Will try it out though,...Thanks!
 
Ah I didn't know that (this is my first compressor). I had been reading a little bit and assumed a Sustainer and Compressor to be roughly the same thing.

Will try it out though,...Thanks!

I was making a joke - but, since that is the case...yeah, do that. It may still compress, but it will be a lot longer before it kicks in, and if the note envelope has quieted down enough from the initial attack, you may notice much much less compression.
 
I have always wondered which direction to turn the attack knob to to allow the most attack to be heard.

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Usually - left means fast (as in starts quickly) and right means slow (as in starts compressing later.
 
Usually - left means fast (as in starts quickly) and right means slow (as in starts compressing later.
Excellent.
For years I'd thought the opposite and wondered why I couldn't dial in what I wanted.
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Again - "generally". The slow fast thing could vary from Comp to Comp.


Think Left to right means Less Attack to More Attack. "More Attack" means less compression...
 
Again - "generally". The slow fast thing could vary from Comp to Comp.


Think Left to right means Less Attack to More Attack. "More Attack" means less compression...

Well, more attack really means later or slower acting compression really -but both settings can reach the same total threshold and reduction equally (if you have a full featured compressor) so overall they can still technically be the same compression level over time -but I get what you meant.

agree with whoever made the blend comment -I wouldn't buy a compressor without a blend knob for what I do -which is dynamic more natural attack with light/medium compression with slow release/sustain
 
Ok, so now, what's the difference between hard knee and soft knee?

Soft knee is a gentle addition of compression as the audio level rises to the maximum compression value and ratio. it's less noticeable and the most common use for recording effect and avoids a pumping effect with a slower attack setting a slower release setting. -Think Sine wave

Hard Knee is more like a limited or a limiter where once the audio reaches a designated level it goes into full compression value suddenly. Hardknee is often used to keep signals from exceeding headroom -ie a limiter -but also can have a sound some people like. -Think almost Square wave

I think your Keeley is tuned specifically for Guitar playing compressor needs and does some of the compressor features without a knob and instead, they way it expects a player to need -thus the 4 knobs.
 
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Soft knee is a gentle addition of compression as the audio level rises to the maximum compression value and ratio. it's less noticeable and the most common use for recording effect and avoids a pumping effect with a slower attack setting a slower release setting. -Think Sine wave

Hard Knee is more like a limited or a limiter where once the audio reaches a designated level it goes into full compression value suddenly. Hardknee is often used to keep signals from exceeding headroom -ie a limiter -but also can have a sound some people like. -Think almost Square wave

I think your Keeley is tuned specifically for Guitar playing compressor needs and does some of the compressor features without a knob and instead, they way it expects a player to need -thus the 4 knobs.
I use the two knob Keeley for guitar (attack and gain are controlled by internal pots).
I used to use the 4 knob for bass, but found that I didn't need it with active pickups. But I have seen that they have a studio grade that allows selection between hard and soft knee, and was curious.
I think that hard knee would be perfect for the bass tone that I look for.

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