Converting single conductor to 4 way
- Thread starter surbas
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NathanCahill
New member
Re: Converting single conductor to 4 way
You just have to find the ends of each coil wind and attach new leads to each. I wouldn't attempt this unless you are confident in your soldering ability.
You just have to find the ends of each coil wind and attach new leads to each. I wouldn't attempt this unless you are confident in your soldering ability.
DrNewcenstein
He Did the Monster Mash
Re: Converting single conductor to 4 way
And that means micro-surgery soldering. Those wires are super thin.
And that means micro-surgery soldering. Those wires are super thin.
Zhangliqun
Questionologist
Re: Converting single conductor to 4 way
The coil wire is super-thin, thinner than human hair. But you won't be dealing with it unless something goes horribly wrong. But Dr. Nuke's basic point is correct, it does require a steady hand and some experience working with small, relatively delicate wiring.
Each coil has two leads, start and finish. The start lead typically comes out of the bottom of the bobbin at the end while the finish lead comes off the side of the coil. These coil lead wires are pretty small, but not terrifyingly so, so you can work with them. They're the same size or slightly larger than the 4 wires coming out of the end of a 4-conductor lead.
The trickiest part is separating the two leads that are soldered together. Best to use desoldering braid to pull out the old solder so you can then easily pull them part. You definitely don't want to be yanking these leads, especially the start leads! Yank the finish lead out and it's a bit of a hassle but you can fix that by twirling the coil wire around the end again and re-taping the coil. Yank the start lead out and that coil is dead and gone forever. You'd have to gut it and rewind it.
See this chart, and you can use whatever color code you want, including Duncan's:
http://www.guitar-repairs.co.uk/guitar_pickup_colour_codes.htm
It gives you the start and finish for each lead and what color to solder it to to match the manufacturer's code you're most used to.
Other things to deal with are taping off the solder joints between the 4-conductor wire and the coil leads. These taped joints need to be kept fairly small so they can be tucked out of the way to keep that end of the pickup from being bulky when you put the surround tape on.
Also, the bare wire is soldered to the baseplate.
The coil wire is super-thin, thinner than human hair. But you won't be dealing with it unless something goes horribly wrong. But Dr. Nuke's basic point is correct, it does require a steady hand and some experience working with small, relatively delicate wiring.
Each coil has two leads, start and finish. The start lead typically comes out of the bottom of the bobbin at the end while the finish lead comes off the side of the coil. These coil lead wires are pretty small, but not terrifyingly so, so you can work with them. They're the same size or slightly larger than the 4 wires coming out of the end of a 4-conductor lead.
The trickiest part is separating the two leads that are soldered together. Best to use desoldering braid to pull out the old solder so you can then easily pull them part. You definitely don't want to be yanking these leads, especially the start leads! Yank the finish lead out and it's a bit of a hassle but you can fix that by twirling the coil wire around the end again and re-taping the coil. Yank the start lead out and that coil is dead and gone forever. You'd have to gut it and rewind it.
See this chart, and you can use whatever color code you want, including Duncan's:
http://www.guitar-repairs.co.uk/guitar_pickup_colour_codes.htm
It gives you the start and finish for each lead and what color to solder it to to match the manufacturer's code you're most used to.
Other things to deal with are taping off the solder joints between the 4-conductor wire and the coil leads. These taped joints need to be kept fairly small so they can be tucked out of the way to keep that end of the pickup from being bulky when you put the surround tape on.
Also, the bare wire is soldered to the baseplate.
Re: Converting single conductor to 4 way
Thanks for the info. I'm almost there, I was able to remove the single braid cable, I have the coil wires separated. Just need to figure out which coil wire does what. There's a black and white wire that comes from each coil. One of the black wire's is soldered to the baseplate the other was soldered to the braid. The 2 white wires were taped together. I need to pick up some 4 wire cable to finish the job and figure out how to connect the coils appropriately.
Scott
Thanks for the info. I'm almost there, I was able to remove the single braid cable, I have the coil wires separated. Just need to figure out which coil wire does what. There's a black and white wire that comes from each coil. One of the black wire's is soldered to the baseplate the other was soldered to the braid. The 2 white wires were taped together. I need to pick up some 4 wire cable to finish the job and figure out how to connect the coils appropriately.
Scott
Zhangliqun
Questionologist
Re: Converting single conductor to 4 way
The best way to connect them is to make sure that when you strip the 4-conductor wires, strip them kind of long with more bare wire exposed. It's easier to twist them around the coil lead ends and you can cut off the excess with wire cutters after soldering.
The coil leads naturally are already stripped but DO NOT try to strip them any longer (which is to say, expose more wire) unless you absolutely have to, especially the start leads. When the wire insulation finally gives way, the jerking motion could yank the lead right out. Remember: Yanked-out start lead = dead coil forever.
Now which are the start leads, the black or white?
P.S. www.stewmac.com sells 4-conductor wire.
The best way to connect them is to make sure that when you strip the 4-conductor wires, strip them kind of long with more bare wire exposed. It's easier to twist them around the coil lead ends and you can cut off the excess with wire cutters after soldering.
The coil leads naturally are already stripped but DO NOT try to strip them any longer (which is to say, expose more wire) unless you absolutely have to, especially the start leads. When the wire insulation finally gives way, the jerking motion could yank the lead right out. Remember: Yanked-out start lead = dead coil forever.
Now which are the start leads, the black or white?
P.S. www.stewmac.com sells 4-conductor wire.
Re: Converting single conductor to 4 way
I'm happy to report the conversion went very well. The newly converted pickup is in my guitar and working as designed. The biggest problems I ran into was getting the original braided wire unsoldered from the base plate and pulling the new 4 way conductor through the base plate hole. Thanks for all your help!
Scott
I'm happy to report the conversion went very well. The newly converted pickup is in my guitar and working as designed. The biggest problems I ran into was getting the original braided wire unsoldered from the base plate and pulling the new 4 way conductor through the base plate hole. Thanks for all your help!
Scott
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