DI for recording
- Thread starter Securb
- Start date
Blille
New member
I liked the two notes cab m. Great value. Flexible piece of gear. You can load IRs and it can be used with just a pedalboard or like you want between head and cab. A ton of other stuff:
https://www.two-notes.com/en/torpedo-series/torpedo-cab-m/
https://wiki.two-notes.com/doku.php?id=torpedo_cab_mplus:torpedo_c.a.b._mplus_user_s_manual
If you’re interested in one lmk I think a friend is selling his.
https://www.two-notes.com/en/torpedo-series/torpedo-cab-m/
https://wiki.two-notes.com/doku.php?id=torpedo_cab_mplus:torpedo_c.a.b._mplus_user_s_manual
If you’re interested in one lmk I think a friend is selling his.
El Dunco
Sock Supplier to RHCP
I prefer something that captures the power section with a reactive load in case you want to record silently. An attenuater is gravy.
For certain amps, the preamp into an IR is only half the amps sound like the dual recs modern and vintage modes using the NF differently in way that doesn’t come through without. Luckily the slave out is after the power section but before the OT, but for the JVM or similar, like a 5150/6505 with the resonance knob contributing to the tone, you would be out of luck without something like the torpedo captor.
I don’t recommend resistive loads like the Cab Clone for tubes amps because without a speaker or something behaving like one, it sounds like absolute @ss. I don’t remember exactly why it’s so important to the sound for the speaker or reactive load and the power section to “speak” to sound right, but I sure know it makes an extremely noticeable difference. “Flat” and “dull” doesn’t even begin to describe it. Anyone who understands, explain it like I’m 5.
For certain amps, the preamp into an IR is only half the amps sound like the dual recs modern and vintage modes using the NF differently in way that doesn’t come through without. Luckily the slave out is after the power section but before the OT, but for the JVM or similar, like a 5150/6505 with the resonance knob contributing to the tone, you would be out of luck without something like the torpedo captor.
I don’t recommend resistive loads like the Cab Clone for tubes amps because without a speaker or something behaving like one, it sounds like absolute @ss. I don’t remember exactly why it’s so important to the sound for the speaker or reactive load and the power section to “speak” to sound right, but I sure know it makes an extremely noticeable difference. “Flat” and “dull” doesn’t even begin to describe it. Anyone who understands, explain it like I’m 5.
Securb
One of Jerry's Kids
Yes, this is more of what is am looking for. There is a vintage AC 30 at the studio. I want the engineer to mic it but also capture a direct signal off the back of the head.
El Dunco
Sock Supplier to RHCP
The two-notes torpedo gets raved about but there has to be options just as good, perhaps without features you might not need that don’t cost as much as a whole other amp head. The Boss Waza Tube Amp Expander looks fracking awesome but again…. pricey, but it seems the intention is to replace your cabinet altogether so you only need to bring a head, cut down the freight of a 4x12 so it’s about the same price as a cabinet. The absolute best versatility is splitting to a raw guitar DI, the mic’d amp and the whole amp sound minus the speaker.
If you like the amp sound and want a different can sound to blend, you can run the captured amp to either an IR or a flat class D power amp into another cab without having to reamp the whole thing, blend the DI into a decent sim or even a whole other mic’d rig!
It can be a mixed blessing to have too many guitar sound options if you’re spending too much time tweaking but there’s no reason you can’t also use any of the above to commit to a sound and add subtle layers if you need anything extra come mix time.
It can make mixing guitar almost orchestral with different elements from different amps riding up and down. In tips and clips I posted a quick demo of a tri-amping technique (ala Jerden on AiC’s Dirt), I’ll share the whole thing soon. It’s really something to have the core sound in the middle, duck the “bass” amp and raise the “treble” amp for clarity in the speedy moments, then bring up the thumping “bass” amp track for slower, chunkier riffs.
It’s such an organic way to do things, you almost can’t consciously tell anything is changing. The faders are just subtly automated to best fit each part of the song. You can do neat things like have different compression levels for each frequency group without needing a multiband if you’re using an outboard compressor that doesn’t have that feature, no ear fatiguing EQ boosts are needed when they’re all right there.
It plays very well with broad master EQ with a nice analog unit and a few minor surgical cuts here and there. It’s my favourite way to track now. I haven’t recorded one amp alone in 9 years.
Last edited:
The most sensible budget option is the Behringer GI100. $40 or so.
It goes after the amp to capture saturation and the built in cab sim sounds surprisingly good. You can also disable cab simulation and run the output to your DAW to apply IRs.
It also works as a standard low level guitar DI into your interface.
It goes after the amp to capture saturation and the built in cab sim sounds surprisingly good. You can also disable cab simulation and run the output to your DAW to apply IRs.
It also works as a standard low level guitar DI into your interface.
El Dunco
Sock Supplier to RHCP
That will work for anything you don’t need a silent recording solution for. I remember those. I have one lying around somewhere. It was bundled with my X-Vamp. I sold the V-amp but kept the GI. The cab sim was pretty useable for FOH and it’s got pad switches if your signal is too loud. Solid piece of gear.
Say, does anyone know the reason the slightly artificial sound of analog speaker sims like the Ultra G and Power Stage seem to be easier to work with for FOH sound than some IRs which can get “washed out” unless they’re exactly right or geared more towards working with a FOH?
I have had to make dead simple IRs, just one mic and placed very different to what’s optimal for a produced studio sound for it to sit audibly the way the old analog kind does.
Last edited:
Securb
One of Jerry's Kids
It is a great product but I am not looking for a speaker sim. If that was the case I would just use my Liverpool direct. I figure while recording it would be nice to have a line and mic level for texture and to give more options in the mix. I am going to do this with my Peavey Classic 20 which has the built-in line out but would like the same option with the house VOX I will be using.
Blille
New member
Re the IRs - I think that the analog speaker sims are more of a glorified lo/hi pass and that works really well for FOH: not a lot of detail but it will sit very well in the mix. Some of the IRs have too much going on in a lot of frequencies you don’t need. I consistently apply lo/hi pass to my signal when I go direct from my helix (and use IRs).
Blille
New member
Not sure I get what you want. You will need some kind of speaker sim - you’ll do that in the computer? I suggested the Two Notes Cab M because it can sit after the head before the cab and then you can either apply IRs and EQ etc inside or just send it dry. The Captors are similar mostly just with load/attenuator.
That’s very different from using your Liverpool where you don’t use your head at all.
Every analog speaker sim is different. When I play my tube amp, I use it into an isolation cabinet, either miked or just as a load.
For a while I was using an IR player after the GI100. But over time I realized the GI100 was roughly as good and much easier to set up. If I'm recording I will go direct and use IRs, but just for playing? The GI100 cab sim is fine.
I think IRs are often for a produced sound, and something like the GI100 or redbox is designed to play live.
El Dunco
Sock Supplier to RHCP
Whatever they use for cab sims in the ol’ RP1000 cut through pretty well direct into front of house. No idea if they’re IRs though. I used it as s fly rig back when it was the latest thing Digitech made, the Soldano model and the Alt Rock 4x12 models and it sounded great up front. The Mark IV model dialled in like a real Mark Iv is worth the price of admission alone. It’s the least stiff sounding and can be tight as you like. X-edit lets you make the adjustable EQ narrow band for that 750 cut.
The pedal and amp loop features means it can integrate with any hot, new pedal based preamps. The Blackstar HT-Blackfire in the amp loop is god-like. If I could find something that good bur smaller and able to run offcommon 9–18v, I’d have it made.
The pedal and amp loop features means it can integrate with any hot, new pedal based preamps. The Blackstar HT-Blackfire in the amp loop is god-like. If I could find something that good bur smaller and able to run offcommon 9–18v, I’d have it made.
donaldr
Well-known member
If you don't need an attenuator I would have a look at the Bluguitar Blubox. I haven't used it myself but I read great reviews. Could be use live also.
https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/bluguitar-blubox
https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/bluguitar-blubox
Friedman Mic No Mo Passive Cabinet Simulator | Sweetwater
$99.99 (same price as an SM57 which I've used for years).
Works good for either recording or live to FOH, fits between power out and speaker input.
You will need to have a couple speaker cables (do not use guitar cables).
Friedman Mic No Mo Passive Cabinet Simulator | Sweetwater
$99.99 (same price as an SM57 which I've used for years).
Works good for either recording or live to FOH, fits between power out and speaker input.
You will need to have a couple speaker cables (do not use guitar cables).
It was smart of Friedman to use his name recognition to build his own version of the Redbox. It probably costs a couple bucks to have it manufactured in China. All profit.
It is priced half way between a Redbox and the low end Behringer clone. I'm sure its great.
Friedman Mic No Mo Passive Cabinet Simulator | Sweetwater
$99.99 (same price as an SM57 which I've used for years).
Works good for either recording or live to FOH, fits between power out and speaker input.
You will need to have a couple speaker cables (do not use guitar cables).
I hadn't heard of this one. It looks cool- I'd used a Red Box for years. If I wasn't using modelers now, this would be a great solution.
Securb
One of Jerry's Kids
I want a pure direct out without a speaker sim. I will be running two amps one already has a built-in direct out. I plan on micing both of them and would like a neutral direct out on the vintage AC30 to blend with the signal coming off the cab. So I will be recording 4 signals Classic 30 miced/direct, AC30 mic'ed/direct.
