Different intonation settings for similar guitars

[Inflames626]

Hi all,
So I was setting up some of my guitars and I noticed the Floyd Rose intonation settings are slightly different for each guitar even though the guitars are similar (25.5", 24 frets, standard tuning, 10 gauge strings).

They should be set up very similarly. For example, the truss rod is about .010" with a feeler gauge off the 7th/8th fret on the low E string with the string depressed at 1st and 17th frets. I like a small amount of relief between the 5th and 12th frets, so I keep the truss rod slightly looser than many players.

The action is about the same. Although I have a steel rule to check it with, I use ideal measurements as a guide and adjust as needed.

Usually when I set string length, I put all the saddles as far back as possible behind the second saddle screw. I check the open string vs. the 12th fret harmonic and adjust as needed. I do it that way because I find it is easier to move a string saddle forward under tension than to move it back.

And of course the claw is set so the bridge is level with 3 springs in a < shape as I was taught and as seems to be common practice.

And yet despite all these variables being similar, I'm noticing the saddles are at varying positions on different guitars with similar specs as far as intonation.

I'm curious so I thought I'd run this by everyone to see what might cause the variations. Every guitar will present its own idiosyncrasies, and of course I'm sure there are small differences in set up, but I expect certain things like "B and E will be closer" and yet on another guitar with the same specs and set up they are farther back.

Thanks.

 

[GuitarStv]

Weird.

I've got a Charvel and a Warmoth Jazzmaster - both with Floyds. When setting up the Jazzmaster I just eyeballed the positions of my saddles in the Charvel and then strung it up. Intonation was pretty close after that.

Maybe you just have some minor variations in where the bridge posts are between the guitars?

 

[Inflames626]

GuitarStv , it's not a huge difference, but the shapes aren't exactly the same either.

I am retrofitting imperial size German made Schallers onto Japanese metric sized bridge posts. I thought that might cause some small variation.

 

[DCikes88]

GuitarStv , it's not a huge difference, but the shapes aren't exactly the same either.

With every single thing affecting intonation not being completely identical, it makes sense to me the saddle positions would be very similar but not identical.

 

[Seashore]

Every guitar I have is a bit different. Minor differences in the nut, bridge height vs truss rod adjustments for action, what the weather is like... I use a strobe tuner to check each string open and fretted at the 12th fret after getting it in the ballpark and in tune. 12th fret harmonic doesn't give me any useful information about how it'll actually play; being really careful about my adjustments based on fretted notes does the best job for me of keeping octaves and fifths consistent across different frets and string combinations. It's never automatic. Sometimes it'll sound and play great and then I'll put on a fresh set of the same strings and need to change it a little. It is what it is. I got my Gibson back from a tech last year after getting a new nut and the high string saddle was actually behind the 2nd string saddle... looked totally wrong... played great. Trust your fingers and your ears!

 

[Inflames626]

Thanks Seashore . I use the 12th fret harmonic because in my experience finger pressure makes the note go sharp and it's hard to be consistent with finger pressure from note to note. Using the harmonic gives me fewer overtones and other garbage the strobe tuner will pick up.

It's my experience that notes above the 12th fret sound duller/flatter (some might hear this as "tone") on a regular guitar. I suppose I try to compensate by intonating the bridge to be slightly brighter up high on the neck. I use an old 2002 Peterson VSAM strobe tuner. Having the bars be perfectly still open and at the harmonic is desirable, but if they're moving slightly slowly it's close enough for me.

It's my understanding that there are different temperament settings as well. I use the GTR one.

 

[alex1fly]

Tremolo bridges are squirrelier than fixed bridges. That's enough explanation for me!:lmao:

 

[Seashore]

Thanks Seashore . I use the 12th fret harmonic because in my experience finger pressure makes the note go sharp and it's hard to be consistent with finger pressure from note to note. Using the harmonic gives me fewer overtones and other garbage the strobe tuner will pick up.

The fretted note is the important one though, right? The harmonic will always be the harmonic. I always hit a few of the open string and 12th fret on the same string and watch them sustain for a bit, sort of do a mental average, and make sure they match up, then check my octaves and fifths up and down the neck, then check them against open strings to make sure I didn't overshoot anything. I understand wanting to feed the tuner a clean signal but I need to know how the thing will operate when I'm actually playing. Being able to see it happening on the tuner was a game changer. Used to use harmonics a lot but I found them leading me astray.

Not criticizing you, of course, if your method works for you that's great.

In terms of setup I really do find that each guitar is its own animal/moving target. The necks on some of them (especially my Schecter 6 string) flex more than others - that guitar will read differently on the tuner depending on whether it's hanging or laying flat on my lap. The Schecter 7 string (Floyd Pro equipped) is rock solid... both SLS Elites, go figure. My old Epi LP has a super stable neck but needs constant pencil lead in the nut slots to tune up and intonate well. My Gibson used to be really difficult to deal with but the new nut made all the difference in the world. The Steinberger baritone frustratingly has one precompensated 6-string saddle with a couple of limited adjustment options, but somehow I can always get it pretty close. Zero fret on that guitar seems to work pretty well. Intonating my basses is the most fun because the longer scale length makes it easier to be precise.