Dulling a poly finish

JeffB

Let it B
Is there any way to make a poly finish NOT so shiney looking (without scratching/sanding it) some kind of polish or something? Steel wool maybe?

suggestions needed please..thx in advance :)
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

LOL :laugh2:

I just hate the extreme shine of a poly finish...I mean REALLY hate it.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

JeffB said:
LOL :laugh2:

I just hate the extreme shine of a poly finish...I mean REALLY hate it.

i'm the otherway.. i want it to shine but good luck...

In fact i am wondering if those HWY1 strats can be buffed to a shine....
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

I think some 0000 steel wool would do the trick. I've been thinking about doing the same to the back of the neck on the Epi LP.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

ErikH said:
I think some 0000 steel wool would do the trick. I've been thinking about doing the same to the back of the neck on the Epi LP.
Hmmm, can you find some instructions how to do it for a neck. I have this terrible Gloss finsish on my Strat's neck and I'd love to smoothen in.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

britishgeetah said:
Hmmm, can you find some instructions how to do it for a neck. I have this terrible Gloss finsish on my Strat's neck and I'd love to smoothen in.
Same way as you would sand or use steel wool on anything else...rub it up and down the neck without applying too much pressure. Yes, it really is that simple. ;)
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

JeffB said:
Is there any way to make a poly finish NOT so shiney looking (without scratching/sanding it) some kind of polish or something? Steel wool maybe?

suggestions needed please..thx in advance :)

You might could try the Jimi treatment and douse it with some lighter fluid and light it.

On a serious side. Does it have a clearcoat on it? You might try to get some 3M Perfect-It II rubbing compound. It has a very fine abrasive in it to rub out 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit sanding swirls but will leave a very very fine abrasive swirl itself. It won't go deep into the paint so if it doesn't leave the effect you want you can always polish it up again to it's original shine with some 3M Finesse-It.

It may not flatten the shine enough. In that case I would try some 2000 grit sandpaper to start off with. Wet sand it with a test spot on the back of the guitar. This will leave a flatter finish but you won't see heavy cut marks in the finish.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

use the steel wool...


you'll either dull it or polish it to an even higher shine :lmao:
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

I'd say go for about 1200 grit wet sandpaper. It will dull the finish quite a bit (it's actually fine enough to polish to a gloss with the rubbing compounds mentioned above) and it's still very smooth. You can get a little sanding pad from Stew Mac so you don't have to put it on a block. Just be careful, because you can, eventually, go through the clear coat.

If you go much finer it won't really get much duller.

I'm sure 4/0 steel wool will work fine, though it might take a little more work. I haven't tried it, though.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

JacksonMIA said:
I'd say go for about 1200 grit wet sandpaper. It will dull the finish quite a bit (it's actually fine enough to polish to a gloss with the rubbing compounds mentioned above) and it's still very smooth. You can get a little sanding pad from Stew Mac so you don't have to put it on a block. Just be careful, because you can, eventually, go through the clear coat.

If you go much finer it won't really get much duller.

I'm sure 4/0 steel wool will work fine, though it might take a little more work. I haven't tried it, though.

The reason I mentioned 2000 first was because it's easier to go incrementaly flatter than it is to build the shine back up. They can always step down a grade at a time.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

The best, and most uniform results will come from WETSANDING with 600-800 grit. Wetsanding will keep the cuts more uniform, and produce similar results to drysanding with an increase of about 200 grits. (600 wet=800 dry, 800=1000 etc.) It will also go much quicker.

If you're talking about just a neck, then you can tape off the headstock area the way EB/MM makes their conversion from gloss to natural finish. I always liked the look of a clean line. For necks I would suggest 600, or possibly even drop to 400 if you want it even flatter. For a body, I'd say 600-800. 1500-2000 grit will really only "gently age" the finish, taking only the extreme gloss away, but then high traffic areas will buff out quickly to a shine just from wear.
 
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Re: Dulling a poly finish

oldschool said:
The reason I mentioned 2000 first was because it's easier to go incrementaly flatter than it is to build the shine back up. They can always step down a grade at a time.
2000 may work just fine, but I've never tried it. I've always stopped at 1200 or 1500 (depending on what I had), and 1200 actually gave a pretty good, smooth matte finish on gloss paint. I agree with your point, though. It's a lot easier to take more off than to put some back on.

Just don't try to do it with 12,000. You may actually polish the finish some more. :laugh2:

Keep in mind, I've never actually tried to dull the finish. I've only gone the other way with it.
 
Re: Dulling a poly finish

I reliced my poly Strat and Tele. I used 0000 steel wool and got a very dull finish. I wanted it slightly gloss... like egg-shell/semi-gloss. I used 0000 (white) Scotchbrite pads after the wool, and it did buff it out without too much gloss.
I touch up cars every day. Also do a lot of colorsand/buffing. Trust me, 2000 grit will dull a cars finish. Poly(yester) which is much harder than polyurethane (used on cars) probably will dull much better with 1200-1500 grit. Don't use a block, use a soft pad. 600 grit will leave scratches on any guitar finish, way too coarse unless you're trying to remove it.
 
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