Easier to plane/refret or buy a new neck?

[Top-L]

I have a chinese guitar that the neck has warped in an unfortunate way. I could attempt to replane the board and refret, OR, I could buy a new chinese neck for about $70.

I would have to finish the new neck, drill the neck, and level/crown the frets. Plus probably some other things that haven't occured to me.

Which is more work, in your opinion?

The new neck would be all maple. I don't know how I would go about spraying satin on a neck with frets already installed? Maybe a rub on oil finish? I would leave the headstock without a logo.

 

[GuitarStv]

New neck is pretty easy to finish if you're going with danish oil or similar. You just rub it on a few times and let it dry, then re-apply every couple years. Can't fuck it up if you do thin coats. Levelling/crowing frets is no biggie either, although it can be time consuming. That's the option I'd take.

 

[jeremy]

do you have the tools you need to fix the old neck?

 

[larryguitar]

I have a chinese guitar that the neck has warped in an unfortunate way. I could attempt to replane the board and refret, OR, I could buy a new chinese neck for about $70.

I would have to finish the new neck, drill the neck, and level/crown the frets. Plus probably some other things that haven't occured to me.

Which is more work, in your opinion?

The new neck would be all maple. I don't know how I would go about spraying satin on a neck with frets already installed? Maybe a rub on oil finish? I would leave the headstock without a logo.

My first question is 'Are you sure the old neck has STOPPED moving?' If not, you could be setting yourself up for perpetual reworking of it.

Larry

 

[ErikH]

It's not a matter of effort here, it's a matter of whether it is worth it or not to do more work on the current neck vs. getting a new one. What is your time worth?

My opinion; new neck. Rub on finish using an old white t-shirt, then level/crown/polish the frets.

FWIW, and I don't know if this is still the case but it was in the past, Fender would fret the necks, spray the clear on the entire neck, then scrape the finish off the frets before they were worked them. I had a '94 American Standard w/ maple fretboard that was like that.

 

[Top-L]

My first question is 'Are you sure the old neck has STOPPED moving?' If not, you could be setting yourself up for perpetual reworking of it.

Larry

Thats what I was thinking. It has a ski jump at about the 15th fret, where it gains a lot of relief in a short span. No guarantee it would stop, however no guarantee a new cheap chinese neck (that fits this guitar) wouldn't have same problem.

 

[Top-L]

It's not a matter of effort here, it's a matter of whether it is worth it or not to do more work on the current neck vs. getting a new one. What is your time worth?

My opinion; new neck. Rub on finish using an old white t-shirt, then level/crown/polish the frets.

FWIW, and I don't know if this is still the case but it was in the past, Fender would fret the necks, spray the clear on the entire neck, then scrape the finish off the frets before they were worked them. I had a '94 American Standard w/ maple fretboard that was like that.

That is why I ask. I think finishing a new neck is less work than planing and refretting, but I'm not sure. Either approach, both necks would need level/crown.

 

[Top-L]

do you have the tools you need to fix the old neck?

I would need a radius block. It would be my first refret so I would need those tools. I have done crown/level.

I am going with a new neck and a simple finish.

 

[larryguitar]

Thats what I was thinking. It has a ski jump at about the 15th fret, where it gains a lot of relief in a short span. No guarantee it would stop, however no guarantee a new cheap chinese neck (that fits this guitar) wouldn't have same problem.

As far as the warped vs. new neck, I would think of it this way-you KNOW the old one is unstable, and a new one might or might not be. Probably safer to go with the new one, as you're doing.

Larry

 

[ehdwuld]

You have cheap Chinese guitar
and you want to know if it is better to fix the cheap Chinese neck
or replace it with another cheap Chinese neck

Which may or may not develop the same problem

I would get a new Chinese neck

And practice on the old one

Pull the frets
Plane it down
Refret

If you mess up
No harm

Then use those skills to adress the other cheap Chinese neck

 

[Clint 55]

I would take the strings off, tighten the truss rod, and then hang up the guitar. Neck will straighten out, leave the truss rod tighter when you put new strings on and it might not warp jacked up again.

Also, if you buy a new neck, finish is not required. Less to deal with if you don't care about having a finish.

 

[Mincer]

I am thinking you would hate a $70 neck.

 

[GuitarDoc]

I've purchased $35-50 necks that were perfectly fine, with a tiny bit of touch up. 20 years later, they are still fine.

I'd do like Ehdwuld said...get the new neck and use the old one to develop some skills that could be very very useful in the future.

 

[Top-L]

New neck is pretty easy to finish if you're going with danish oil or similar. You just rub it on a few times and let it dry, then re-apply every couple years. Can't **** it up if you do thin coats. Levelling/crowing frets is no biggie either, although it can be time consuming. That's the option I'd take.

How does danish oil feel vs satin neck? I have an air gun, I could spray or rub.

 

[GuitarStv]

How does danish oil feel vs satin neck? I have an air gun, I could spray or rub.

I like the feel of oil much better. It's more like you're playing directly on the wood . . . because it never really makes a hard finish over the top. It does get dirty faster though, and like I said it needs re-application every few years.

 

[Top-L]

I like the feel of oil much better. It's more like you're playing directly on the wood . . . because it never really makes a hard finish over the top. It does get dirty faster though, and like I said it needs re-application every few years.

I think I will go with satin. Its what I know and I have the tools for it.

How would I remove sprayed finish from fret tops? I'm thinking an exacto to score at fret edges.


There potential problems with a new neck. Fit in the pocket (should work based on measurements) and fit of tuners and nut. And of course drilling and aligning neck.

I'm not convinced a new neck is a slam dunk vs planing and refretting.

 

[GuitarStv]

I think I will go with satin. Its what I know and I have the tools for it.

How would I remove sprayed finish from fret tops? I'm thinking an exacto to score at fret edges.

I've used 0000 steel wool to do this in the past. You have to make sure to tape everything off properly though, which is a PITA. I bet those fretboard protectors would be awesome for doing this.

 

[ErikH]

I think I will go with satin. Its what I know and I have the tools for it.

How would I remove sprayed finish from fret tops? I'm thinking an exacto to score at fret edges.

Since you'll be leveling/crowning/polishing the frets AFTER the finish is sprayed on and it dries, let the leveling beam do it for you. You won't need a very thick finish anyway so don't worry about scoring the edge. The work of leveling and crowning will take it off.

 

[JOLLY]

I'd get a new neck.