misterwhizzy
Well-known member
Re: Favorite strings again...
This thread took an unexpected turn.
This thread took an unexpected turn.
This thread took an unexpected turn.
Your statement doesn't have enough info...Which DR's and which EB's???
If you have 2 sets of strings...both with pure nickel wrap and both the same gagues...let's say 10/13/17/26/36/46 for examaple and one set has a hex core (let's say EB Rock-n-Rolls) and one has round core (DR Pure Blues) the DR's will have less tension.
When string makers went to hex core strings decades ago one of the biggest complains industry wide was the added string tension.
I've been using GHS Nickel Rockers for the last number years but recently switched to Gibson Vintage.
The guitar came with Gibson Vintage on it and sounded great with Gibson Vintage on it, so I just went with the flow.
The evolution of my string choices are as follows: ....in the beginning there were only Ernie Ball Super Slinkys on my geets, then came the D'Addario's phase-------------followed by Dean Markley Blue Steels-------------then onto Elixers and now I'm digging DR as my string of choice.
Does anyone see any potential problems with using XXL Heavy 12-60 DDT strings tuned to E? Just pondering over something here recently...
I keep coming back to D'Adarrios.
It's an American strat that I'm "Metalfying". I actually have two brand new sets of DDT 12-60 and I tried the low E in my LRS nut and IT FIT!! So I was like cool I'll use these super heavy gauge strings tuned to E, because that's what I play in. I knew a truss rod adjustment would be in order but wasn't sure about any other negative effects....DDT 11s are plenty soft @ Estd/DropD, so likely not...though the idea of tuning to E on 12-60s, intuitively, seems kinda scary.
Potential problems: WILL need truss rod adjustment, WILL still be somewhat gnarly if your axe isn't quality enough to pull off shredderiffic low action, MIGHT blow non-hard maple or bad mahogany necks - midrange korea and up, all japs and all yanks should be ok
...use w/ caution on "indochina" = india indonesia china guitars...seen VERY soft neck woods on otherwise serviceable and decent sounding guitars. bass example, i know, but had a junker gio 200 ibanez soundgear that sounded awesome w/ an active seymour lightnin rod P pup (bass $25 pickup $35 lol), but couldnt take ANY string gauges except the very lightest
Hmm - Tension is based on diameter of the string. While tolerance will cause actual tension to vary a little, an EB .046E = D'Add .046E = DR .-46E if outer diameter is exactly the dame. Core diameter will make the string feel looser or tighter.
So quality = the ability to get shredderific low action?? So I guess Fenders with the 7 1/4" radius are not quality guitars. I like lowish action myself but not too low.
What do I know? - I use GADAWFUL D'Addario strings.
I'm sticking with SIT's. 10's on the electrics, 12's or 13's on the acoustics and resonators. They are a few hours from here and I can special order my lap steel strings.
ABILITY, yes, if wanted... Low quality stuff doesnt follow tight enough tolerances to get stuff nice straight and superlow w/o anything buzzing anywhere. It's all about FIT. well, that and not blowing any parts screwing everything down far tighter and lower than at factory, yet with waaay higher string gauges (ex. - korean licenseds can get chewed up by hex wrenches...yet german OFRs and japanese Original Edges chew the *wrenches*)
Also...dont see what radius has to do with actions. Heard of adjustable saddles? Set heights to follow the curve of the board, and voila... Setups 101.
Regarding gauge and tension, DR shrinks/compresses theirs - they flat out say they start with a higher guage wire and tighten it down somehow in the manufacturing process. Also, nickel bronze steel and various alloys thereof are simply different materials, dude. With different properties.
Here you go again - find a Fender with 7 1/4 in radius and set it up with something like 3/64 at the 12th fret... That high E going to fret out when you bend.
School of hard knocks dude. Some of us have been around a while. I've owned a good number of Fenders with the old 7 1/4 radius as well as newer ones with the later flatter radiuses.
I'll acknowledge the materials used might have a little difference - but its going to be slight. Not enough to warrant a truss rod adjustment, unless your neck is really thin and susceptible to the slightest change in tension. GHS Burnished Nickels are also compressed and I never have had to make an adjustment with those when I use them.