Fender Strat Tremelo Setup

prophetofthor

New member
i just read this on fenders website

"First, remove the tremolo back cover. Check your tuning. For a vintage-style tremolo bridge, a great way to enhance its performance is to pull the bridge back flush with the body using the tremolo arm. Then loosen all six screws located at the front edge of the bridge plate, raising them so that they all measure approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) above the top of the bridge plate. Then tighten the two outside screws back down until they're flush with the top of the bridge plate. The bridge will now pivot on the outside screws, leaving the four inside screws in place for bridge stability. For a two-pivot model such as the American Series bridge, use your tremolo arm to pull the bridge back flush with the body and adjust the two pivot screws to the point where the tremolo plate sits entirely flush at the body (not lifted at the front or back of the plate).

Allowing the bridge to float freely (no tension on the tremolo arm) using the claw screws in the tremolo cavity, adjust the bridge to your desired angle—Fender spec is a 1/8" (3.2 mm) gap at rear of bridge. You'll need to retune periodically to get the right balance between the strings and the springs. If you prefer a bridge flush to the body, adjust spring tension to equal string tension, while the bridge rests on the body (you may want to put an extra 1/2 turn to each claw screw to ensure that the bridge remains flush to the body during string bends). Caution: Do not over-tighten the springs, as this can put unnecessary tension on the arm during tremolo use. Finally, you may wish to apply a small dab of Chapstick® or Vaseline® at the pivot contact points of the bridge for very smooth operation."

there is a bunch of confusing terms thrown around about the "vibrato" bridge (tremolo alters dynamics, not pitch!).

here is what i want. i want a non-floating tremolo bridge. i do alot of string bending and i want the bridge to stay put unless i touch the trem bar. i want a tremolo that goes DOWN ONLY and stays "fixed". i've had free floating tremolos before and it makes it 33% harder to do bends. my usual rememdy is to load up the tremolo block with 5 springs. when i do that it is very hard to use the tremolo bar. i feel like i'm going to pop the neck off.

reading the support jargon (above) from fender makes me dizzy with the possibility of fender strat setup with usable down only tremolo. if i'm reading this stuff right i can adjust the tremolo to be "flush" against the body. when i do string bends (with fingers) the bridge should not move, but i can engage the tremolo arm and have it go down only.

what i'm asking is what i'm describing is the same directions fender is giving??? i'm pretty willing to do guitar setup. i routinely adjust truss rods, but i will definitely admit i'm a moron because i've been setting up strat tremolo's wrong for years.

PLEASE COMMENT/CONFIRM/EXPAND/SYMPATHIZE !!!!!

i've currently got a highway one with a "vintage" tremolo, and i'm eyeballing the jimmy vaughn strat (with vintage tremolo as well).
 
Re: Fender Strat Tremelo Setup

Use 3 springs but scrw the trem claw in as much as you can (2 screws on the piece of metal that suspends the springs)
 
Re: Fender Strat Tremelo Setup

Yep, what you want is what they are describing. First adjust the front screws so the front of the bridge is flush with the bridge all the way back (resting on the body). You don't have to back out the middle 4, it might help with stability, but it's not necessary. Then tighten the claw just enough so that the bridge doesn't move when you bend. Experiment with 3, 4 and 5 springs to see how much stiffness you want (3 springs will need a lot more tightening than 5). If you set it up stiff enough not to lift when you bend, it will take a little more force to drop the pitch with the bar, but if you balance it right it shouldn't take a crazy amount.
 
Re: Fender Strat Tremelo Setup

here is what i want. i want a non-floating tremolo bridge. i do alot of string bending and i want the bridge to stay put unless i touch the trem bar. i want a tremolo that goes DOWN ONLY and stays "fixed". i've had free floating tremolos before and it makes it 33% harder to do bends. my usual rememdy is to load up the tremolo block with 5 springs. when i do that it is very hard to use the tremolo bar. i feel like i'm going to pop the neck off.

reading the support jargon (above) from fender makes me dizzy with the possibility of fender strat setup with usable down only tremolo. if i'm reading this stuff right i can adjust the tremolo to be "flush" against the body. when i do string bends (with fingers) the bridge should not move, but i can engage the tremolo arm and have it go down only.

what i'm asking is what i'm describing is the same directions fender is giving??? i'm pretty willing to do guitar setup. i routinely adjust truss rods, but i will definitely admit i'm a moron because i've been setting up strat tremolo's wrong for years.

PLEASE COMMENT/CONFIRM/EXPAND/SYMPATHIZE !!!!!

i've currently got a highway one with a "vintage" tremolo, and i'm eyeballing the jimmy vaughn strat (with vintage tremolo as well).

Just put five springs and lower the posts or screws (depending on model) to get it flush to the bridge. Then adjust saddles for string height and intonation. That's what I would do if I wanted it to stay put. I had mine floating but with five springs and it didn't move for my string bends (but I never bent more than two half steps, i.e. +1). Screw in the trem claw as far as you want to keep it from moving.

You could also buy a tremol-no....
 
Re: Fender Strat Tremelo Setup

Yep, what you want is what they are describing. First adjust the front screws so the front of the bridge is flush with the bridge all the way back (resting on the body). You don't have to back out the middle 4, it might help with stability, but it's not necessary. Then tighten the claw just enough so that the bridge doesn't move when you bend. Experiment with 3, 4 and 5 springs to see how much stiffness you want (3 springs will need a lot more tightening than 5). If you set it up stiff enough not to lift when you bend, it will take a little more force to drop the pitch with the bar, but if you balance it right it shouldn't take a crazy amount.

Right.

Typically I'll start with 3-springs... straight, not angled in... and with the guitar tuned to pitch (or not) tighten the claw down until the trem is stiff enough that a double stop bend won't drop the low E in the least. Don't make it too tight & over extended the springs... ie; don't screw it all the way in! Go enough to pull the trem flat to the body... and then a little more... and then a little more.

At that point, with the guitar tuned to pitch, and the claw tight I'll screw the bar in and slowly start backing the claw out, maybe 1/4 turn each time until the bar feels right in my hand.

I like the trem set flat to the body w/ just enough tension that I can do a 2-3 step bend and/or double stop and not have the other notes go flat. There's a fine line there... if you can adjust a truss rod this is simple!

I need to redo my Hamer which has a floating Floyd... not as simple... and I'm not really looking forward to that project.
 
Back
Top