Finish problems...

TIGEREYELASER

New member
I tried to do a homemade finish on one of my guitars and had runs in almost every layer of paint. First in the primer (fisheyes and unevenness, like skiiing moguls in spots) and then in my color coat. Is there anyway to fix this by sanding out the runs or should I buy a chemical paint remover and simply start from bare wood? I'm inclined to go the long way through and do the remover just so I can have a clean canvas to start from. I tried dominus quickie finish and I screwed it up so that's on me but any help you forumites could give me would be wonderful. Take care and God bless.
 
Re: Finish problems...

Since the paint is still fairly fresh, hit it with an aerosol brake cleaner. Should help you wipe the paint right off. Then take your time and don't hang it. :)
 
Re: Finish problems...

Fish eyes are usually the result of silicone or wax like products left on the finished piece before spraying. I would strip it but not with brake cleaner. If it soaks into the wood you could have problems with the paint lifting. Make sure when you are spraying the primer you are spraying dry, it should never look wet. You are better off with multiple thin coats than one thick one. Wet sand the primer before you go to the finish coat also wipe it down with Prepsol or a similar cleaner. When you do start spraying make sure your strokes start before your work and end after it. So you are starting the spray gun/can before it is over the guitar.
 
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Re: Finish problems...

As a side note does anyone know of any good resources that deal with painting a guitar with spray cans? I know dominus finish was a good idea but I'm detail oriented and kind of need guidance on how to do it in a way that is pretty specifically detailed. I'm a little AR at times and I rushed this job, I really did. Maybe next time with some additional guidance and practice I can get it.
 
Re: Finish problems...

The brake cleaner will evaporate if left long enough

Acetone, mineral spirits, paint thinner, MEK,
any of these will remove the paint and prep for fresh paint

My buddy filled some gashes and dings with superglue
Nothing would stick to it
And he couldn't get it off the wood without .sanding way back

*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
 
Re: Finish problems...

Fish eyes are usually the result of silicone or wax like products left on the finished piece before spraying. I would strip it but not with brake cleaner. If it soaks into the wood you could have problems with the paint lifting. Make sure when you are spraying the primer you are spraying dry, it should never look wet. You are better off with multiple thin coats than one thick one. Wet sand the primer before you go to the finish coat also wipe it down with Prepsol or a similar cleaner. When you do start spraying make sure your strokes start before your work and end after it. So you are starting the spray gun/can before it is over the guitar.

I think he was painting over an existing finish, which is why I suggested the brake cleaner. It'll take any new paint right off, but leave the original finish untouched.
 
Re: Finish problems...

This seems like a dumb question to ask but how long before the finish sets too hard to use the brake cleaner? Days? Weeks? I was indeed painting over an existing finish so the wood seems well protected.

Edited to add: Thanks dominus for assisting a newb like me, your help is greatly appreciated...
 
Re: Finish problems...

I think I was able to use brake cleaner to soften up some paint a few weeks after I originally did it. :D
 
Re: Finish problems...

When using brake cleaner to dissolve the finish on a guitar is there a brand you use personally that offers good results oh wise sensei? ;)
 
Re: Finish problems...

Ha, nope, Whatever the auto parts store, hardware store, or retail megamart has. They all worked the same. Make sure you do it in an area that you don't mind making a mess in, and grab some rags to wipe it off with.
 
Re: Finish problems...

When you're spraying, to avoid runs...thin EVEN coats. Keep the gun/can moving. When the paint is put on too thick, you get runs or sags.

If you use a gun, the amount of thinning is extremely important:
Not enough thinner = thick sags, extended drying times between coats, long curing time before final sanding and polishing. (If sprayed on in thin/"dry" coats to avoid the sags = orange peel finish).
Too much thinner = runs and drips, many coats to build-up thickness, a lot of sanding between coats, lower final gloss after polishing.
 
Re: Finish problems...

Got some time today to hit it with the brake cleaner, it worked beautifully but I need another can of brake cleaner to finish the edges and get left over spots but, like dominus said, it went back fairly quickly to it's original finish. Trial and error. That's truthfully the best way to learn because with error you learn quickly what works and what doesn't. Sometimes it's an expensive error, sometimes it's $30 worth of supplies to remove your mistake. My biggest mistake was when I had it "good enough" I wanted "PERFECT" and went over it again with more paint. Derp de derp derp derp. *smacks self in forehead*

*Edited to add* She is all set now, spent 20 minutes spot cleaning old finish off the body after the majority was done.
 
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Re: Finish problems...

sand it down to bare wood. Use a 400 grit to 600 grit paper so the paint has something to bond to. Then once the finish is on use a 2500 wet/dry paper to get a mirror finish..
 
Re: Finish problems...

sand it down to bare wood. Use a 400 grit to 600 grit paper so the paint has something to bond to. Then once the finish is on use a 2500 wet/dry paper to get a mirror finish..

That's a LOT of work. The original finish is pretty much bonded to the wood. That's why I just use that as a base to build off of.
 
Re: Finish problems...

That's a LOT of work. The original finish is pretty much bonded to the wood. That's why I just use that as a base to build off of.

Then just sand that finish smooth and tough it up with 400 then finish it
 
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